Cracked floor in rear compartment

DeepBlue2010

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By the look of these pictures, i wouldn't hold my breath for the core sampling results. I am welling to bet on a full restore. Hopefully i am wrong
 

Laduckhunter

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The core samples looked all the same, reddish color, dry and I can't smash it between my fingers. The floor and laminated plywood is shot, but once I pulled the one piece out everything else looks OK. I might try to take it to an expert for evaluation. I have no doubt I could do the work, but I do not feel comfortable to make the decision if it needs repair or when. Maybe I will sleep on it.
 

Laduckhunter

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After sleeping on it., I think I have decided just to remove the cap and take a look underneath. It doesn't look like taking off the cap would come at much of an expensive, even if everything else checks out. It looks like I can rent an engine hoist for about $35 and to remove the cap I just need to drill out the rivets underneath the rub guard, disconnect the linkage for the steering wheel and disconnect all wires to the dash and fish finder? I will have plenty of manpower to help physically remove the shell. I was thinking about setting up cinder blocks and 2" x 6"'s to set the shell on. Does this sound like I am heading in the right direction?
 

Laduckhunter

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Granted that is the simplified 50,000 foot view. I will be creating a details plan of action to do the actual work.
 

Laduckhunter

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No Title

As I am learning more about the construction of boats and terminology, what is the name for this piece in red? It looks like it joins the stringer to the transom.
 

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gm280

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Oh I do see rotted wood for sure. As for that part in red, I call it a side brace. If there is a correct nautical term for it, I don't know of it.

The usual terms for things goes something like this. Parts that run along with the length of the hull are usually called stringers, parts that run across the hull are usually bulkheads. And there are exceptions to everything. So when I get to something that isn't covered with those two terms, I call it a thingamajig. JMHO!
 
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DeepBlue2010

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The part you highlighted in the picture is called knee brace if I am not mistaken.
 
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Laduckhunter

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After taking some more core samples, I found some which were wet, but not rotten, not a good sign :( Non of the transom samples were wet, at least.
 

DeepBlue2010

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How high from the keel did you sample the transom? The lower the better.

Got any pictures
 
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trailking82

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Dec 31, 2010
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The red circles are call knee braces, this is what Skeeter refers to as their Kneed Transom. Removal of the top cap is straight foward, except with bass boats you have some extra issues. Mostly the plumbing for the livewells need to be disconnected, the biggest issue is actually freeing of the cap. Not sure what model you have but Skeeter shot flotation foam everywhere on mine, if the foam was touching the deck when it setup then it stuck to it. Mine is stuck under the seats, which is not a big issue you just have to do some prying and scrapping. A long thin metal tool will work best. Most boats are permantly attached at the juction of hull and cap in the transom area. Bass boats pose a new problem you cant easily get from the bottom to cut through the resin they use. A few options exist, work hard from the underside with "custom" made tools, apply upward pressure and hope it will free itself or just cut it. The last to are going to result in repair after the fact, i personally have chosen to cut the very top skin, then to cut the pieces apart... Atleast with this way i control how much i need to repair or rebuild.

Judging from the last set of pictures i can assume that the stringers atleast are rotten, which as with most boats they rot from the bottom up and back to front. Transom is more than likely on its way to full rot, obviously the floor has started to go. Not sure on your year but Skeeter would use a balsa wood core in certain areas of the hull, if you choose to rebuild those areas will need to be cut out and replaced as well.
 
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DeepBlue2010

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It is a full restore my friend. Make peace with the idea so you can start and get it done.
 

Laduckhunter

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Most boats are permantly attached at the juction of hull and cap in the transom area. Bass boats pose a new problem you cant easily get from the bottom to cut through the resin they use. A few options exist, work hard from the underside with "custom" made tools, apply upward pressure and hope it will free itself or just cut it. The last to are going to result in repair after the fact, i personally have chosen to cut the very top skin, then to cut the pieces apart... Atleast with this way i control how much i need to repair or rebuild.

Judging from the last set of pictures i can assume that the stringers atleast are rotten, which as with most boats they rot from the bottom up and back to front. Transom is more than likely on its way to full rot, obviously the floor has started to go. Not sure on your year but Skeeter would use a balsa wood core in certain areas of the hull, if you choose to rebuild those areas will need to be cut out and replaced as well.


Thank you for the information! I had pulled all of the plumbing, disconnected nav lights, and all fish finders so far. Next is to disconnect steering and throttle linkage. Regarding cutting the top skin, where did you make the cuts? I am having a hard time seeing how the shell is going to come off.

I should have included this before, the model is a SS-140D, it has dual consoles.
 

Laduckhunter

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I am out of denial mode now :) This is a big relief, I do not have to spend as much on tools and I won't be cramped working in my garage. I am working on the detailed game plan now.
 

Laduckhunter

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I deleted the part in the last post, mentioned I have 6 volunteers and a friend with an auto body shop that has offered space and tools :)
 

trailking82

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Dec 31, 2010
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Space is nice and so is the help. I dont have a picture right now i can get one later. You were on track though removal of the rub rail is step one. I have to caution you on this, best method is with a heat gun to soften the insert, and a sharp drill bit to drill the rivet heads out. The key here is to save the rub rail, for some unknown reason they are redicously expensive to replace. Once the rub rail is removed there is more rivets to drill out. For the most part thats it, Skeeter may have hand laid some fiberglass on the inside but all should be accessable. I used a vibrating tool with a metal cutting blade inserted between the cap and hull in those areas. The last real connection is at the transom.
 
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Laduckhunter

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Jul 4, 2015
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Ok so from a 50,000 ft view there are three things to do

1.) Get the cap off
2.) Pulling crap out of the boat
3.) Put new, not rotten crap back in.

I am going to outline #1 until I feel prepared.

Step 1, Disconnect everything
- Plumbing
- All gas lines
- Nav lights
- Fish finders
- Dashboard gauges
- Steering linkage
- Throttle linkage
- Stern Trim switch
- Remove outboard

Step 2, Remove the cap
- Build a structure so the cap can rest without placing abnormal pressure on any of the sides
- Build something to keep the boat from deforming while being worked on. ( I am not sure about this or how to do this yet )
- Use a heat gun to remove the rub guard ( it is expensive to replace)
- Drill out rivets in rub guard
- Drill out additional rivets
- In a perfect world, lift the cap off the boat and sit on holding structure
- Take a crap load of pictures and measurements of transom angles, stringer lengths and anything else wood that will need to be replaced

Random questions:

1.) Can I work on the boat while it is still on the trailer?
2.) Regarding the boat, what needs to happen to ensure the boat doesn't lose its shape. Build some sort of brace?
3.) Is the dual console set up part of the cap? I can't find a seam, and it seems connected. ( I probably need to post some pictures of what it looks like.)

Thank you, everyone, for your help.
 
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