Cracked floor in rear compartment

[Woodonglass]

IMHO, this is a good Pro/Con discussion of the two...
http://composite.about.com/od/Resins/a/Vinyl-Ester-Vs-Polyester-Resins.htm

 

[kcassells]

Oh my my... Me dinks this is going to be fun. As stated all will work just fine dey will. Personally me dinks EEEEpppoxy is da bestesist. On dat note the cost is killin me. Once you start with EEEpoxy you need to finish with it.
Each type whatever you decide will make the boat float for years beyond the original mfg. application. Simply cause I say so and I'm not a scientist.
How's dem apples!

 

[gm280]

IMHO, this is a good Pro/Con discussion of the two...
http://composite.about.com/od/Resins...ter-Resins.htm

Good article WOG. But in the end, it still is a personal choice. :thumb:

DeepBlue, I am not attacking you or your opinion. I was merely making a statement that Polyester resins are used for so many refurbishing projects, that they are very good choices to use and not the low end poor-man's only choice. That's all. eace:

Not arguing or trying to say you're wrong, just letting the OP know that if he does go Polyester, it will be extremely strong as well... JMHO!

 

[Scott Danforth]

the resin is second only to the prep. the prep (gutting, grinding, rounding corners of new wood, filleting) are what gives the resin its ability to work well.
I would probably use poly

make sure you have your PPE
make sure you have a stack of 24 grit discs and sawsall blades
make sure you have a shop vac with a filter bag
make sure you keep going when you hit that point where you want to give up
make sure you have beer on hand
make sure you wash your hands before you pee when working with fiberglass

once you get past the itchy / filthy stage, the resto will pick up momentum.

once you get the stringers installed and tabbed, you will probably want to take a break from the project. resist that urge.

once you get the floor on, foam filled, tabbed and sealed, then its down hill and almost splash time.

 

[Woodonglass]

There were two old boat builders working on a boat. One had attended the EEEEEpoxy School of Boat Building and the other had attended the Poly-Tek-Nek Skool of Boat Building. They BOTH liked drinking Beer!!! During a "P" break EEEEPoxy noticed that POLY-Tek washed his hands and then P'd, while EEEEPoxy had always been taught the alternative method. After returning to work, EEEEEpoxy couldn't help but ask.."Hey Poly, I noticed that you washed your hands and then P'd. When I went to EEEEEPoxy school they taught us to P first and then wash out hands...What's up with your technique??? Poly-TEK looked at him with his ALL KNOWING smile and said..."At POLY-TEK they taught us NOT TO P ON OUR HANDS!!!!!

 

[Laduckhunter]

Once again your guys wealth of knowledge will be greatly helping the end product of my boat and for that I cant thank you guys enough. I've been sick the last few days, but should resume research and planning shortly!

 

[kcassells]

At EEEEpoxy school and Plumbing school. I was lernt not to ever wash your hands after, cause your first touch is da cleanist touch and afta dat the rest is from utters. lol! Just keep it to yourself.

 

[Laduckhunter]

IMHO, this is a good Pro/Con discussion of the two...
http://composite.about.com/od/Resins/a/Vinyl-Ester-Vs-Polyester-Resins.htm

Thank you! Good info!

 

[Laduckhunter]

One thing I was thinking about. My rear compartment does not have a ledge or seal. If it rains when I am fishing, water will leak down into the rear compartment. Could this have lead to some of the damage I am seeing? Maybe building a ridge, so water doesn't flow down? If I remember right, it can't be air tight as the batteries will gas off?

 

[gm280]

One thing I was thinking about. My rear compartment does not have a ledge or seal. If it rains when I am fishing, water will leak down into the rear compartment. Could this have lead to some of the damage I am seeing? Maybe building a ridge, so water doesn't flow down? If I remember right, it can't be air tight as the batteries will gas off?

Laduck, if everything is properly sealed and waterproofed, it would make no difference. But that is just my opinion. I am sure others will have their ideas as well. JMHO!

 

[Laduckhunter]

After enjoying some down time, I am ready to start tackling the project. First two things are to build a frame to set the cap on, and then take the cap off. I am planning to use cinder blocks, and 2x6's to build a frame that the cap can rest on. I am hoping to do it this weekend or the next depending on when I can get the hoist to pull the motor. I should all of the above done by the weekend after next.

 

[gm280]

After enjoying some down time, I am ready to start tackling the project. First two things are to build a frame to set the cap on, and then take the cap off. I am planning to use cinder blocks, and 2x6's to build a frame that the cap can rest on. I am hoping to do it this weekend or the next depending on when I can get the hoist to pull the motor. I should all of the above done by the weekend after next.

Sounds like a plan to me. Good luck and be safe. :thumb:

 

[fishin98]

Looks like a nice FISHIN rig...You are going to get some great advise here.....they are not helping you spend your money, just giving you the advise to do it the right way. Take pictures as you disassemble the boat, when it comes time to put it back together there will not be any guessing games....Good Luck on the rehab.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Thank you! I am looking forward to getting her back on the water.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Attached are pictures of my bunks. They run up about 3/4 of the boat. What additional supports should I be adding when I take the cap off. I am getting a lot of conflicting information ranging from its fine if you have bunks but not rollers to you need to build a cradle. All information is greatly appreciated as always.

​

 

[gm280]

Ladduckhunter, it is fact that the longer any bunk is, that is actually touching the hull, the less amount of actual pressure is applied to the hull. In other words longer bunks spread the weight over a great area therefore reducing the pressure on any one point of the hull. So if you can run longer bunks, the better. But only if you do have adequate support for those bunks. Meaning putting more cross support brackets to the bunks.

On my really little tri-hull setup, I have four long carpeted bunks fitted to the hull and then some side guides as well. No, I honestly didn't need four, but extras never hurt. So the hull isn't supported just in a small area and therefore the hull will not start to take on a set from the bunks because of the weight of the hull. JMHO!

 

[Laduckhunter]

What about the top, should I build something to make the top doesn't bow out or in?

 

[gm280]

LDH, of course the first thing you seriously need to do before removing the top cap is take tons of pictures AND lots of quality measurements. Plot those measurement on some graph paper or make a little drawing to show those measurement. You can either install side supports attached to the trailer, or make some cross supports to hold the sides from splaying outward and install them after removing the top cap.

Another option is to built a hull cradle and move the entire hull onto that cradle. The benefits of doing that are, you can rework the trailer while the hull is sitting on a supporting cradle if there are any issues you want to do to the trailer while working the boat hull.

I had to built a cradle because my trailer was toast and needed a complete rebuild. You can see that in my links below if you like. :noidea:

But whatever works best for you is how you should go. If you are going to leave it in place on the trailer, just attach some good side supports and have at it. The better you take the pictures and measurements the easier it will be when you reassembly the boat top and bottom again. JMHO!

 

[Laduckhunter]

Thanks for the information. The trailor is in great shape so I will just build some additional supports onto the trailer. We have just about everything done but taking the cap off. Removed outboard, rub rails, ran the chisel through the silicone. It looks like it is puttied in at the transom. I will getting an air chisel to attack it from the inside. All of this will start next weekend. Here are a few pictures.

 

[gm280]

LDH, Oh yes the cap removal is always interesting. One suggestion. Forgo the air chisel and use a cut off wheel so you do less damage to the material. It all has to go back together at some later time. So the less damage, the easier it will be to repair the parts once reassembled again.

Keep posting pictures and asking questions. We all are watching and love pictures of projects like yours. :thumb: