Cracked floor in rear compartment

[DeepBlue2010]

I am out of denial mode now This is a big relief, I do not have to spend as much on tools and I won't be cramped working in my garage. I am working on the detailed game plan now.

You are half way done already.

 

[Swoosh3]

The Auto Body Shop with access to all manner of tools and the six volunteers is a HUGE boost, It would not hurt
if one or two of them also worked at the shop.
Regardless, multi-minds on a project eases the brain-strain, that is what's great about "iboats forum" also.
Lots of hands doesn't hurt either.
Plenty of pictures and save what comes out as templates for what is going to go back in.

 

[gm280]

Laduckhunter, with your attitude and go get'em mindset, I get the feeling your finished boat is going to look amazing. :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

Laduckhunter, with your attitude and go get'em mindset, I get the feeling your finished boat is going to look amazing. :thumb:

Thank you for the kind words.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Ok, so I have ordered the lifting ring to pull the motor. My goal by the end of the weekend is to have everything pulled that I can so when I bring it to the shop weekend after next, that I can git the ground running. Also I need to start evaluating what type of wood, glass, resin that I will need. I also need to put a budget together so my wife can see. I plan on adding 50% to my estimate.

 

[gm280]

Laduckhunter, I just went back over your thread on this project and I noticed you haven't supplied any pictures of the boat other then the cracked area. How about posting the outside and some other shots including some inside layout shots as well, so we can see your boat. And unless I missed it, and that is entirely possible, what size OB are you working with? You talked about ordering the lift ring for it to remove it. I'm assuming that lift ring goes into the flywheel threaded center section. You can also use the bolt holes in the flywheel to lift the engine off if you want. So post some pictures of the boat and we can all grasp a better idea what you are working with. JMHO!

Good idea to add 50% or even more on the estimate. Seems the little things do add up when refurbishing any boating project. I know I have bought so many niceties for mine and new parts to replace the old one...just because!

 

[Laduckhunter]

Laduckhunter, I just went back over your thread on this project and I noticed you haven't supplied any pictures of the boat other then the cracked area. How about posting the outside and some other shots including some inside layout shots as well, so we can see your boat. And unless I missed it, and that is entirely possible, what size OB are you working with?

I am working with a 1992 Skeeter SS-140 D. It has a Mercury 115Hp outboard on it. The boat is 17.5 ft long. I believe the width is 6ft 10". I will be posting up some better pictures of the boat before EOD.

Good idea to add 50% or even more on the estimate. Seems the little things do add up when refurbishing any boating project. I know I have bought so many niceties for mine and new parts to replace the old one...just because!

Some people have builds and claim to do the transom for $300, some claim it takes $1,000's. I guess not all boats are the same size and that is probably the huge difference.

 

[Laduckhunter]

No Title

Here are some overall pictures of the boat:

 

[gm280]

Okay Laduckhunter, I do see some great lines in that boat. I also see many years of service from her too. I see you have a Merc 115. But it doesn't look like the tower of power series. Is it a V6?

The variance in costs from one person to the next has a lot to do with a few things. First the material one choses. If you go the cheap route and use really cheap particle board wood and some can spray paint as a sealer, well, you will be doing it again next year or sooner. However, if you use quality exterior grade plywoods, Arauco, or even Marine grade plywoods that are factory glued together to be use outdoors and laminate two sections together to achieve the correct transom thickness and use either polyester or epoxy resins and the correct fiberglass materials, then it is going to cost more, BUT will last longer then you will ever use it.

There are many such project currently being worked on these forums. And there is even a "how to" section on transoms, stringers and floor replacement that you should look up and read to get familiar with the concepts and see how things proceed. Very good informative reading for sure.

As you work on your boat project, remember if you cut corners and do shortcuts, you will be looking to do it again down the road. But if you take your time and use quality materials and resins, it will last longer then original for sure.

But your boat does have some real appeal to it and I see a very nice Bass Boat coming out of this one. :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

Okay Laduckhunter, I do see some great lines in that boat. I also see many years of service from her too. I see you have a Merc 115. But it doesn't look like the tower of power series. Is it a V6?

But your boat does have some real appeal to it and I see a very nice Bass Boat coming out of this one. :thumb:

Thank you. It is a V4. It has been completely rebuilt and is running pretty well.

 

[gm280]

Thank you. It is a V4. It has been completely rebuilt and is running pretty well.

Okay, I use to run a 115 inline six. And that engine would scream across the water too.

I have to continue watching your progress on this one to see your finished project, if that is okay with you. :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

I have to continue watching your progress on this one to see your finished project, if that is okay with you. :thumb:

Absolutely!

 

[Laduckhunter]

Spent my extra time today studying epoxy, polyester and vinyl resins. My first thought is vinyl for the transom and poly for the stringers. I can adjust the formula based on ambient working temp where it seems like you can really mess up wrt the ratios of epoxy. It is also cheaper than epoxy. Not 100% sure on this yet.

So, I am going to guestimate I will need to start on the transom

3 - 1 gallon of vinyl resin - $136 (http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html)
2 - 8"x4" Marine Grade Plywood - $146 (https://www.marine-plywood.us/douglas fir.htm
? - 1708 - Tab in transom http://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/Fiberglass-Biaxial-cloth-1708-Tape.html
? - Some sort of mat for glassing in the transom
? - Sand paper for preparing the surface area for glassing in
? - Acetone for cleaning after demolition

I am sure there is something I am missing, but it seems like a good start.

 

[Woodonglass]

I don't see the need to mix and match. VinylEster IS a bit stronger and more water resistant than the Poly but...the Poly will get the job done nicely. Your boat is made from poly. If you prep well and do the layups correctly, your restoration will live longer than you!!!! Check out these two links. I think they'll be informative. Most of our members just use Ext. Grade plywood instead of the Marine Grade and save a few bucks.

Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Laduckhunter]

I don't see the need to mix and match. VinylEster IS a bit stronger and more water resistant than the Poly but...the Poly will get the job done nicely. Your boat is made from poly. If you prep well and do the layups correctly, your restoration will live longer than you!!!! Check out these two links. I think they'll be informative. Most of our members just use Ext. Grade plywood instead of the Marine Grade and save a few bucks.

Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

MaterialsList.pdf

Amazing info, thank you. I have been spending the weekend working through the how to section on the site. I spent most of it going through this post:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-deck-and-stringer-restoration/page3?t=510077

I am going to try and price the project out for the transom first, then the stringers. I will most likely be selling a few of my guns as needed to fund the process. I will start with the transom, then hopefully the stringers by Feb.

 

[gm280]

I have to agree with WOG on this as well. Polyester Resin (435) is way capable of rebuilding your transom and everything else too, to an extremely solid setup. I think you will be more then pleased with polyester. And the fact that so many others have and are using polyester resins on these forums, gives you extra suggestions if you do run into any issue because there will be so many iboaters that are using the same materials as well. JMHO! Really easy to use and even mix for your immediate needs. That is a huge plus in my book. :thumb:

If the temps are l little high, back off the MEKP %. If the temps are low, you can add more MEKP % to help get the kick action you want. So if you are doing a really long poly layup and it will take some time, back off a little on the MEKP % and you can finish before it starts to harden up. It sound finicky, but you will learn real quick how to use and adjust the MEKP % mixtures to your advantage. Honestly! :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

I have to agree with WOG on this as well. Polyester Resin (435) is way capable of rebuilding your transom and everything else too, to an extremely solid setup.:

Glad to hear this coming from you guys. I researched many places that said this resin is not fit for transom work. You get so much conflicting information on this subject. Epoxy is your only choice it is the BEST! Poly is the horrible for transoms! So on and so forth.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Whoever is telling you that Vinylester is not for transom work is not giving you a good advice. VE is superior to poly in almost every aspect you can think of. Its lower viscosity makes laminating and prepping wood with it much easier, impact resistance, water absorption, bonding, brittleness all of these factors are much better in VE than poly. If you can find/afford it, use it. If not, as it was said before, poly would do

 

[gm280]

Whoever is telling you that Vinylester is not for transom work is not giving you a good advice. VE is superior to poly in almost every aspect you can think of. Its lower viscosity makes laminating and prepping wood with it much easier, impact resistance, water absorption, bonding, brittleness all of these factors are much better in VE than poly. If you can find/afford it, use it. If not, as it was said before, poly would do

DeepBlue, I understand that Vinylester is good, but you seem to make it sound like Polyester 435 is a last ditch option choice. And I can guarantee you that most folks have used Polyester on these forums then Vinylester. That's not to say Vinylester isn't used, but Polyester will do the job without any issues and last longer then most folks will own their boat. Of course people that want to spend more to do the same rebuilt can chose whatever they like. And even use Epoxy if that is their choosing. So yes there are different choices to do the same job. But cost verses performance doesn't hold up for this effort. It is not like your using third rate resin and hope for a good out come. Lots of folks have built their boats with Polyester 435 resin and believe in it very well. JMHO!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Glad to hear this coming from you guys. I researched many places that said this resin is not fit for transom work. You get so much conflicting information on this subject. Epoxy is your only choice it is the BEST! Poly is the horrible for transoms! So on and so forth.

gm, when I said "Whoever is telling you that Vinylester is not for transom work is not giving you a good advice" I was not referring to anyone here, I was addressing the above highlighted statement of the original poster. I assumed by "this resin" he was referring to VE but maybe I made the wrong assumption.

If you read my post, I did not say Poly wouldn't do it. On the contrary I said it would. However VE is still better. Even you did not disagree with me on that.

Let's not turn this into VE vs poly debate. I read the OP post as if someone told him that VE is not for transom work; and I was replying to that claim. If I was mistaken and he was referring to poly, so I made the wrong assumption. However, the merit of what I said still holds true. I worked with both resins and I think VE is superior to poly in almost every aspect. This is just my opinion and you can disagree with me if you want.