Cracked floor in rear compartment

[Laduckhunter]

So here is my first thought. The top yellow makes where I want to brace the top of the hull. The bottom supports that I will attach to the trailer. How does this look? What material would you build the support that is touching the boat? A piece of 2x6? I plan on researching this a bit more before the weekend obviously.

 

[Laduckhunter]

For the top brace, could I just use ratchet straps? Run it under the trailer and then up and over?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Sure you can. I don't see a reason why it should not work.

Before you remove the stringers, take a straight edge to the bottom of the hull and take a note, picture, videos of how the hull conforms to the straight edge. If there is a hook, some hull does have a very slight hook by design, take a note of so it doesn't confuse you in the future.

Before installing the new stringers, use two hydraulic jacks and 4 boat stands. Left the stern until it is barley touching those bunks then install two stands to support the stern on each side of the boat. Then go mid way or a little more forward and do the exact same. The purpose of this technique is to insure that the bunks are not pushing the hull inward by any degree even if ever so slightly. If they do and you glass over the deformed shape you will be locking it in place creating a hook in the hull which will adversely impact the performance and handling of the vessel after it is done.

Once you done with stringers, run the straight edge again and compare to the before shot. They should be the exact same
Also, don?t remove the two stringers at the same time leaving the hull completely unsupported. Rather, take one out, replace it, glass it and finish it, then start with the other.

Also, try to keep your own weight as evenly distributed as possible. Don?t bend with your knees on the hull directly but rather use a piece of ply to distribute your weight. Any questions, ask away. Best of luck to you.

 

[gm280]

DeepBlue offers some good advice. But don't think this is by anyway undoable. Tons of iboaters have gone before you with their projects and survived nicely. So just use some good common sense and make sure you do things after reading or getting info on these forums. There are lots of such project boats on here. Outside supports for the hull allows you to work inside without much concern. If you go the strap or even cross 2 x ?s you will have to step over them when working. If that is okay with you, go for it then. If you go the outside support, use any type material you can get to prop the sides so they are basically solid when the top comes off. Some folks just bolt the supports to the trailer frame with whatever works. "U" bolts or carriage bolts or even regular bolts with metal brackets usually works. Don't drill into the trailer frame though. Not good! JMHO! :thumb:

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Absolutely, let's debunk good measures and tried and true techniques in favor of chance. While we are at it, let's cancel all of our insurance policies. After all, how many of us had an accident last year?

 

[grewvin1]

Nice project you have, should be be an exciting project just found it and reading. Just wondering if anyone has suggested you check out one guy on this forum that has done a few boat refurb's "Frisco" ? Think he is on Youtube as well, have followed a couple of his re-builds and he provides a lot of film along the way stringers, transoms everything. Also might check or give thought on using in some of your project "Star Board" for replacement components. Keep the photo's coming your's is a good project to follow.

 

[Woodonglass]

If you leave the boat on the trailer to do the work, it's real important as previously stated, to ensure that the bottom of the hull is supported in as many points as possible. Lot's of ways to accomplish this but please take your time and make it stable. Once the top cap is removed the hull WILL flex and expand soooo,it's critical that you get pre-measurements of where it is now so you can ensure the hull sides are precisely back to the exact configuration when it's time to put the top cap back on. It's also important to know how THICK everything is so things will fit over things too!!! TAKE A LOT OF PIC AND MEASUREMENTS You'll be glad you did later. IF you do a good job of bracing the hull from the outside, I see no reason that you won't be able to gut the entire hull and then start from scratch to replace everything. Stringer, Bulkheads, flotation boxes, Bait Boxes etc... that's what most of the members have done and done so successfully but... it all depends on the hull bracing. If it flexes and moves then as stated, you're gunna have a lot of problems.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Thanks for the encouraging words. One thing I can't wrap my head around, if you replace one stringer at a time how is the possible with regards to the bulkhead. It my head, it seems like that would make it hard to replace one stringer at a time?

 

[gm280]

Thanks for the encouraging words. One thing I can't wrap my head around, if you replace one stringer at a time how is the possible with regards to the bulkhead. It my head, it seems like that would make it hard to replace one stringer at a time?

That is a great question. And for the record, I have never done that replace one and then the other technique myself. I totally gutted the hull and ground out the hull of all the old fiberglass and then made all the new stringers and bulkheads. But some folks do things differently and it works for them. So I can't answer your question honestly having never done it that way before myself. But then I also built a hull cradle for my boat knowing the trailer was absolutely toast and was needing rebuilt as well. So again, I can't answer your question with any experience to back it up. Others will chime in with better ideas and experiences and explain how to accomplish that I'm sure. :thumb:

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Thanks for the encouraging words. One thing I can't wrap my head around, if you replace one stringer at a time how is the possible with regards to the bulkhead. It my head, it seems like that would make it hard to replace one stringer at a time?

I am not sure what is your concern; the bulkheads should be all out before attempting to replace stringers. You then simply change one stringer at a time instead of removing both and leave the hull unsupported. The stringers/bulkheads grid has many configurations.

Some boats comes with one piece stringers following the same line along the length of the hull and the bulkheads are notched to fit on top of them. In this case, changing one at a time is no big deal. In some other boats , the stringers change width before and after bulkheads. So,they end at a bulkhead and new ones start on the other side of the bulkhead usually at different width narrower or wider. Which one you got? Do you have a picture of the grid down there?

In any event, please understand that I by no means trying to discourage you or complicate things for you. On the contrary, i am, so do all the orhers, trying to point out all the hidden details and mistakes that caused frustration to others do you can avoid them from the outset rather than repeating them and learn about them the hard way.

Keeping the hull shape intact with minimal disruption is the ultimate goal. As long as you do your best to accomplish this goal you should be fine. And of course, you can improvise according to what is possible and what is not in your own build. Best of luck to you

 

[Jhaydeng]

I'm just curious, as an outsider and greenie on boating in general. How much do you figure you have into this project? You know where I'm going, right? Does it make sense fiscally? Thanks!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I guess the answer for this question is very highly subjective and depends on so many factors but one very common and relevant to the financial soundness of the restore/rebuild decision is the cost of an alternative or a substitute. So, you are asking of it makes economic sense compared to what?

 

[jbcurt00]

Thanks for the encouraging words. One thing I can't wrap my head around, if you replace one stringer at a time how is the possible with regards to the bulkhead. It my head, it seems like that would make it hard to replace one stringer at a time?

Back to the topic at hand ^^^ Thanks

Jhay, I commented in YOUR topic about your post here. Lets leave it at that

 

[Laduckhunter]

I'm just curious, as an outsider and greenie on boating in general. How much do you figure you have into this project? You know where I'm going, right? Does it make sense fiscally? Thanks!

For me it makes sense fiscally. Its either sell the outboard and buy a 20k Bass tracker or fix this one. Fixing this one will cheaper by a huge margin

 

[Laduckhunter]

How much do you figure you have into this project?

So far I have bought some tools, pizza and beer. Only about $150 so far, but I have 2k set back for the repair.

 

[gm280]

LADH, if you factor in labor, most of us couldn't afford our own rebuilds. So it has to have a labor of love involved. I know when I started my boating project that it was never going to be a money making proposition. But I get to design the boat my way. That is really interesting to me. And I also know every little part of the rebuild and know it is right. :thumb:

So actual cost, especially after starting and investing much time, has little to do with it in the long run. JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

The labor costs is the main reason for DIY'rs When a Businessman figures in labor costs he's calculating a LOT of variables other than just the labor. They may be able to save a bit of money on materials but that cost is not all that significant. Once those numbers are added to the equation he then attempts to do everything possible to "Beat" those numbers to increase his profit. This is the main reason for cutting corners in Time, materials and techniques. Thus the old saying...If you want something done right...do it yourself but that must be followed with IF you have the willingness and ability to get the job done.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Just about to have the cap off. I helped a friend move so it cut down on my work time. I couldn't get the back part loose so I cut the top cap on the transom off.

 

[gm280]

Just about to have the cap off. I helped a friend move so it cut down on my work time. I couldn't get the back part loose so I cut the top cap on the transom off.

LADH some times it is whatever works as the best way. But being fiberglass, almost anything can be rebuild to look like it never was disturbed in the first place. Aluminum boat projects can as well, but with a lot more effort and welding taking place first. Keep posting. :thumb:

 

[Jhaydeng]

So far I have bought some tools, pizza and beer. Only about $150 so far, but I have 2k set back for the repair.

Well then that's an outstanding deal even if you hit 2K!