Cracked floor in rear compartment

[Laduckhunter]

Looking forward to working on the boat this week. Due to space I am going to be building a frame around the boat that we will use to pull the cap and sustain it will we are working on the boat. My thought is to use manual winches and 2x4's with eye hooks to support the consoles and live wells / back compartment. Anyone see any issues with this?

 

[gm280]

Looking forward to working on the boat this week. Due to space I am going to be building a frame around the boat that we will use to pull the cap and sustain it will we are working on the boat. My thought is to use manual winches and 2x4's with eye hooks to support the consoles and live wells / back compartment. Anyone see any issues with this?

Sound like a plan to me. Remember the top cap really isn't that heavy and I can't see manual winches being any issue. Go for it, but also be safe. We want to see this project completed. :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

Not much progress in the 2 weeks, between having the flu and Valentines day, I have only put a minimal amount of time in. The cap is now pretty free all the way around. Instead of building the frame, we are moving some items around the shop so I can center underneath an I-beam to run the winches from. With any luck, the cap will be off this weekend.

 

[gm280]

Not much progress in the 2 weeks, between having the flu and Valentines day, I have only put a minimal amount of time in. The cap is now pretty free all the way around. Instead of building the frame, we are moving some items around the shop so I can center underneath an I-beam to run the winches from. With any luck, the cap will be off this weekend.

LA, one thing you have to remember doing these boat projects is, you have to take care of yourself first. The boat will still be there when you are better. So nurse yourself back to health and then work on the boat. Also be careful with lifting heavier items around, working on a boat. And yes post the pictures as well. JMHO

 

[Laduckhunter]

Finally, we have some progress. We got the cap off the boat this last weekend. Note to others, if you use winches from an i-beam. make sure your leads are long enough actually to get the cap back down We had to set it on 55-gallon drums because we spent all of our time making sure we could pull the boat from underneath...

 

[gm280]

LADH, great to see you have the cap removed. It really isn't that hard to see the rot now either. Interesting layout with that hull. So now the real itchy work begins. Make sure you use a Tyvek full suit and goggles and a good respirator mask. Don't want that fiberglass dust in your lungs. Keep posting your progress. :thumb:

 

[Laduckhunter]

These black boxes in back. I have not checked them out yet. I am guessing they are filled with floatation foam, and I should do everything I can to cut them out as a single piece and re-use them?

Step one is to replace the transom, so I am concentrating on it first.

 

[Laduckhunter]

They are flotation foam boxes.

 

[gm280]

LADH, if those boxes look and test out to be sound, I'd leave them and work around them. However, If they test drill to be rotting, out them come as well. At least that is what I would do. JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

Totally agree!! Drill some holes as close to the bottom of the boxes as possible and see if any water comes out. If not then glass the holes shut and carry on.

 

[Carpenter2486]

cool project! looking good so far, i think id like to follow along and watch your progress, give me tips for the enxt 5-25 years of my life with my bowrider project.

 

[Laduckhunter]

Long over due up-date. I have been getting some time in on the boat. We flooded here in N. Louisiana. I lost 3 rooms to the flood. Not fun stuff.

The boxes had saturated floatation foam. I kept the boxes mostly intact.

Piles and piles of soaked flotation foam. The water coming out of this was so nasty we might have reintroduced ancient disaeases back into society I found that I was able to get large chunks out by making cuts with the sawsall, then using a crobar to get between the hull and the foam to pry the pieces out.

We cut the transom out in 3 sections,otherwise in tact to use as a pattern for the new transom. Notice, on the sides, the transom doesn't even extend to the bottom of hull and is entirely sitting on flotation foam. The transom looks to be a janky in design and contruction. It was definitely the factory transom, I was suprised to see it like this, honestly.

Only one more section to go!

This was me being a dumb***, using a cut off wheel and ran in right through the hull. Can I tape the bottom and fill it with 5200?

The transom is now completely out and the prep work has been started.

 

[Laduckhunter]

cool project! looking good so far, i think id like to follow along and watch your progress, give me tips for the enxt 5-25 years of my life with my bowrider project.

Great to have you along for the ride! If you have any questions specific to what I am doing here, just ask.

 

[gm280]

LADH, Odd I could only see two of the pictures you posted. As for the cut off wheel having a mind of its own and cutting through the hull, no problem. A piece of 1708 and some poly will be a quick fix. Don't go the 3M 5200 route for any hull breaches. When you get everything grinded out, and there will be more Uh Oh's for sure, you can use poly and fiberglass (1708) to patch over those places and carry on. Some boat manufactures use the least amount of material to get the job done and so some transoms are not full transoms. But when you finish the build, your boat will be built better then original. :thumb: