1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Need help with old Betsy. Bought her two years ago and love the boat. Big open skeeter s-130 tiller with a 1991 60hp Johnson, and added a 2004 8hp Johnson 4stroke to the backside too. Took her all over the state fishing till 3 weeks ago when I decided it was time to fix the seat post that ripped out of the floor, no big deal right? Yea I don't think I would have done this till winter if I knew how crazy it was going to get. I pulled the carpet up and cut the glass out around the seat post base, went to lift the base out of its spot after I pulled screws and there wasn't much under it but floatation foam and some remnant of plywood with a big empty void between. I went and contacted some people and had a old buddy come over and he said "pop the top" time for a new floor. He's unable to help much other than phone conversation and texting due to work and family so I'm attempting this solo other than first glass layup which he said he would help on the first time to show me how to roll it and remove air bubbles. I removed the top and floor and it is bad news underneath. So far i have one stringer of the two stringer assemblies removed leaving the tabbing in place , one stringer assembly laminated, built and fit for good fit and floor hight (could not find 12' long marine grade fur plywood so I read and read and read and talked to many people and ended up using west system 105&205&406 to laminate a 12' long 9" wide 3/4" thick piece out of two 8' and two 4' 3/8" thick and the same for the small support that was 10' long 5" wide 3/4" thick), and now I'm unsure on what to do. I want to install one stringer assembly before removing the other. I left the old tabbing in intending to laminate it to the new stringers and supports, now after reading more it sounds like I can leave a little in as a guide and remove the rest for new glass to be used, also the stringers are not sitting on the hull they are off about 1/4" off, also there are 1" slots in two spots on each stringer and support that they allowed the flotation foam to go under the stringer to support it? What is my next step? What type of resin should I buy? Layup resin? Should I cut the old tabbing out or epoxy it to the new wood? I know about grinding old glass but why do people relaminate delaminated glass they don't grind or even clean with acetone?
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Pics so far
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    135.9 KB · Views: 2
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 2
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    149 KB · Views: 2
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    146 KB · Views: 2
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    143.3 KB · Views: 2

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Also I removed some of the strand mat glass thats beneath the woven roven with the wood when pulling the stringer and support out. I was planning on using epoxy to put strand on the wood where it was missing. Is that ok? Is west system 105&206 ok for penetrating my transom? I want to bore holes down the transom and inject epoxy with 406 colloidal silica to reinforce it on one side to support the heavy kicker motor? Was also thinking about putting a addition on to the support that runs par repel with the stringer to go up higher on the transom for support where the kicker motor goes? Don't really know what route to take, my transom is solid everywhere but a 10" strip on the top where the kicker bolds that started delaminating due to not being sealed up. I drilled holes and dried it already and it solid again but I know it won't be unless I epoxy it and clamp it till it cures or, replace the transom which isn't happening. It's to solid still, nice and firm wood in all the drain line and livewell pump holes even, actually looks like someone replaced the transom at one point due to the crazy amount of bondo like material glueing the splash well and transom together my buddy said that glue job is prob not factory. Can I use west system 105&205&406 for injecting and penetrating?
Can I used old tabbing fiberglass still in tact since the stringer is not glued directly to the hull?
Can I use 105&205&406 for adhering and filleting the back of my stringer and parallel support to the transom?
What resin should I buy? Layup? Same resin but with wax for final coat?
Woven has to have strand under it to stick?
Can I use west system 105&205 to coat wood prior to installation. Will the polyester resin and glass stick to it?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    146 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    137.1 KB · Views: 1

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Sorry about all the questions but I want it right when its done. Lots of time and money in this project and I need to fish! Anyone in the Oconomowoc or Jefferson areas of wisconsin able to offer professional hands on help I would give a 7hr guided trip for any species you want. Salmon, musky, walleye, & trout are my favorite. Green Bay, winnebego, Lake Michigan, okauchee, Oconomowoc, lac labelle, lake wisconsin, lake Geneva are all areas I fish. Set up to troll eight planer boards and two back rods, or cast or jig if that's your flavor.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    147.3 KB · Views: 1

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

DryDock2.jpg



Epoxy and Poly don't mix. Epoxy sticks to about anything. Poly sticks to Poly but not to epoxy. I'd use poly. I'd also grind all the old glass down to the hull. Don't attempt to use the old stinger slots. It never works out well. The first link in my signature below has some drawings and info on what you will be doing.

WelcomeAboard.jpg
 

Teamster

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
1,923
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

I heard someone say "tiller",.................................

Tagging along,...
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Getting ready to grind now, leaving a small piece on either side for a guide when I glue the stringer in. Retabbing it. Called west system tech line and they said poly will adhere to a epoxy covered stringers if sanded, but said you cannot lay glass with epoxy, sand it, then lay glass with polyester resin. It's a flexing, load distribution, & shrinkage issue laying to different compounds over each other. The epoxy is stronger than poly so laying something over epoxy would adhered but not transmit the load through because the stronger of the two is taking 85% of the load.But you can lay glass in epoxy over poly no problem. Anyone find anywhere cheaper for glass than us composites? Any arguments with using vinyl ester? Guy at west system said if it was his boat and he was young and broke he would epoxy all glueing joints sand em and use vinyl ester. Also use it because it only has a 3-4% shrink factor compared to poly at 11% for a extra 10$ a gallon. Oh yea. What is this? E-glass or woven roving?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    141.9 KB · Views: 0

sevanseriesta

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
303
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Good luck with your build, but I will tell you this much. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this board. If your going to ask a question I would recommend taking their advice. The problem with people that have never done this before is information overload. I don't think that you are hearing everything the West guy is saying 100%. Im not trying to insult you please don't take it that way, but these guys will give you the best advice out there. I know from experience and these guys have showed me how to do my boat every step of the way with absolutely no boating knowledge.

I'm interested to see how your boat looks when done as we have a similar boat. Both of the same year.

Good Luck!
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

That is woven roving. West Systems is in the business to sell Epoxy. Your boat is made from Poly and Poly will be absolutely 100% fine for your rebuild. There is no reason to mix the two. If you grind to fresh glass and prep properly poly will provide a strong bond and it will last decades. If you want to use Vinylester to get added bond and strength features and don't mind the added costs then by all means do so. US composites has very good prices but shipping will be pricey depending on your location
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Ty for the quik reply's. woven roven@ 4.60 p/y is way cheaper than e-glass at 9.10 p/y. I love advice that's why I'm here. I need help with all this otherwise I could make expensive and time consuming mistakes! Already have! And the whole epoxy thing I'm worried about is because I already laminated the wood together with epoxy and got it all over the stringer and have 3/4 gallon left for glueing joints and floor on. Also have a bunch of holes to fill that I took or tried taking the stainless screws out of that have epoxy coming out of em. Deff going with poly due to how much glass is if I can still. Also if I measured total thickness of the old glass and its .025 a layer, how much thickness do you gain from adding resin to a sheet of glass that's .01 thick so I can figure out thickness. All I've seen so far is 18oz woven roven for 4.60 a yard 36" wide at us composites. Any other stores to check? Heard of a express composites in Minnesota I'm going to look up now. Again Ty for your help!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    143 KB · Views: 0
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    152.6 KB · Views: 0

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Sevan, do me a huge favor and post pics of your battery locations. Close up pics in the transom if that's where your is at. My starting battery is in the compartment at your knees if your driving and I don't think it supposed to be! Ty guys! Oh yea post a couple of your whole boat to, I've looked for another s-130 on the Internet for two years and only saw one. And I bought the rotting mass and love it. I wanted a tiller glass skeeter or ranger.
 

sevanseriesta

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
303
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Sorry It took so long for me to respond been working on my water anchor since Tuesday night! here is what I have for you. I have a compartment behind my rear livewell that holds the gas tank, and the batteries. I have 3 of them however I am not sure that I will use three of them and May only but two back in. Two on the port side and one on star side. The transom pics I am not sure what your wanting so I will post before and after.






Before


After



By the way I hope your cap came off easier then mine. I had to cut my splaswell and some out just to get my cap off.

Hope this helps if you need and other pics let me know
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Wow you have a project Sevan, for some reason I see I feel the same simpothy for old boats as you. Well I laid my first glass yesterday, not as easy as some people make it look! Got the back center of the stringer tabbed and the outside of the small stringer. Trying to get as much glassed as I can without putting my weight in the boat as it was flexing on the one side slightly as I get in or out, well it was. Wish I would have built a cradle! I have a roller/bunk. Bunks are 4 ft on the outside and 8 on the indside and I ripped down 4+6 doug fur studs so I had thick bunks, all brand new. The rollers don't touch the v of the boat after its on the trailer completely other than the nose, so I drove wedges inbetween all 4 of the rollers and v of the boat to support it, and I made t-blocks for the front of the chines and blocks at the back to keep my hight and support but someone in my shop area removed a block at the back on the side I have ripped apart and it sagged a unknown amount, measuring off the supported trailer that doesn't move I believe it dropped a inch. I hope it's close again, I replaced the block to a average hight I figured out off the other side that has not been disturbed. When I lift the transom on that side the front of the boat flexes a lot more than the back is moving. Scary. Glad I'm only doing one side at a time other wise that could be devastating when trying to put the top on! The one pic is how much I cut off the lip on the top of the transom so I could plunge cut all the bondo like material out. Took me two days to cut it all and get the splash well loose.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    145.6 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    148.3 KB · Views: 1

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

What do you guys think, should I put the trailer back on wheels and put it under the cap a d make sure the screw holes all line up still? The top has a lot more flex than the hull but it shouldn't be tweaked to much to get it to line up. Want to be carefull as to not create more stress cracks having it sprung one way putting it on. Also is it true you can add less hardener to the poly resin to get it to kick slower? Like use 9cc per 32oz instead of 11cc, 9 is for 91+ degrees, 11 is for 80-90 degrees, it was 87 today and it gel'd up in 4 minutes waisted half a quart. Same thing yesterday did a half quart and got in on quik then another half to finish and I didn't need it all so it sat for a minute and was gel'd in 5 minutes @ 5.5ccs to a half quart. Did a patch on the top of the transom and put less hardener 4.5cc with 16oz and it slowed gelling down to about 8-9 minutes which is the recommended time to gel per most manufacturers and it was still tacky 24hrs later but glass was rock hard after 20 minutes of being resined in, which seems to be normal when its mixed hotter. I'm mixing with a flat stick in a gallon mixing cup and measuring with a quart mixing cup and cc cup so its accurate for the most part. I googled fiberglass resin still tacky and all that came up was temp, improper mixing, not enough hardener, old resin&hardener and layup resin. None seem to apply to me from my angle. Will it not be tacky soon or am I going to do something about it? Buddy said wipe it with acetone? Oh yea it's west marine poly resin. It's three months old from the lot date on it.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    137.7 KB · Views: 0

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Marine Laminating resin without wax even when cured will remain tacky for quite some time. You should not go below 1% hardener per volume of resin. So if you want your resin to kick a bit slow, I'd recommend not using less than 9.5 cc's of hardener per quart or resin. (945cc) You MIGHT go to 8.5 but no less. Make sure not to lay glass in direct sunlight and if you set your resin and hardener on ice in an ice chest prior to mixing it you can kind of FOOL it into thinking it's cooler outside.
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

This is final coat resin, what was recommended by couple people since I'm only tabbing the stringers with one layer of 18oz roven woven with 3/4oz csm all in one, I'm doing the tabbing to the transom with it all at once too. Trying to duplicate exactly how they layered the tabbing to the transom and adding a layer of roven over the 1708 at the end cause I found every stringer detached, broken and rotten. So I'm doing like 5 layers at certain spots all in one. Wish my buddy could just come and help but its coming along.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    145.4 KB · Views: 0

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Any disagreement with using 3m bondo brand poly resin? Lot date says its a month old! Buddy said go to Home Depot and get poly resin there,its always fresh but they don't always have it. Is it true most brands are all the same stuff from the same chemical manufacturing company? I'm tabbing stringers and noticed there's a void between the two sides of glass under the stringers that is not getting wet with resin, is glass still waterproof after you break the glaze grinding it?
 

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Progress....
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    145 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    144.7 KB · Views: 1

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

Couldent sleep at night knowing I'm leaving wet wood in the boat so I started replacing all the balsa. Hull reinforcements are done and the bow is almost done on one side. Takes forever doing balsa, luckily most of it was rotten and smelled like dirt so it was easy to remove. Been wet for a long while! Fun part is going to be doing the hull reinforcements under the already glassed in stringer.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    145.8 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    147 KB · Views: 1

Skeeter130

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
30
Re: 1990 skeeter s-130 stringer/floor replacement.

What's the u-bolt called that you clip the strap on to pull the boat on the trailer? I'm getting into that area and want to replace the wood it's mounted in. Any precautions I should watch out for? I already removed the keel stringer that was attached to it. I have 18oz woven and 17oz 1708, everything I read says 1708 is stronger, is that true?
 
Top