https://www.thepondguy.com/product/pond-armor-pond-shield-non-toxic-epoxy-liner-one-and-a-half-quart/?sku=170122%20SKY%20BLUE&p=PPCGSHOP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7--YzePz-QIVDbbICh09sQQgEAQYASABEgIMAfD_BwE
Fish safe epoxy, sticks to plastic. Ain't cheap though.
It's really not all that much more work since you're replacing the stringers already forward of the engine bay, Do it all at once - ACX plywood cut to size. One and done.
I wouldn't do it one way in front and another in back - seems like a recipe for problems.
Umm define good.
Will it move with that load...yes. Will it plane...doubtful. Will it break any speed records...not likely.
Rule of thumb has been 75-80% of factory rated HP as a minimum. So I'd be looking in the 50 & up class.
Here's the specs from the manufacturer...
https://letsgoaero.com/silent-hitch-pin-5-8-press-on-locking-anti-rattle-pin-for-2-hitches/
Says up to 12000 lbs, class IV rated.
Received it last night. The spring has plenty of tension to keep the assembly in the hitch drawbar - I don't see it...
That has more room than I do in mine.
Realistically, marinas work on boats like this all the time and probably have a process/procedure for almost everything. If not, they have the tools to pop the engine out/in....just gonna be a cost of owning the boat.
I'd be more concerned with...
Mine came with a Promariner Prosport 12 - 2 banks. Hooked to starting battery and trolling motor battery.
Which reminds me...I need to plug the boat in when I get home.
I'm just thinking about all the batteries, electronics, motors, etc that just got dunked. And not like you went through a puddle and its done/over - this is a pretty good drenching as it takes them a good long time to retrieve the boat.
https://www.americanfloormats.com/non-slip-duragrid-drainage-mats/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx__OpPDs-QIVc-W1Ch2Z1gO7EAQYAyABEgJq9_D_BwE
$3.95 for a 12"x12" tile. Hard to beat that. Cut it to size as needed.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/searchrabbit/result/?q=fuel+tank+sending+units
Do it yourself for a lot less.
OR....every couple of hours stop for fuel. Don't need to fix it then...cost is $0 in parts/labor.
Start with the basics...are you sure, as in have tested, that you are getting sound out of the head unit? I'm thinking blown internal amp in the head unit here.
Hook up an alternate sound source to your amp and see if you get sound - easiest way I can think of is a tablet or laptop headphone...
Just tossing it out there....why not add the glitter to the base color? They sell it for peeps making epoxy counter tops, jewelry, etc. Might be worth a looksee??
Total WAG....Faria by chance?
https://fariabeede.com/site_manuals/IS0091_H.pdf
FWIW...for 2017 I had to search out all the manuals separately as Chap didn't provide them for the accessories.
Interesting...as was his first vid on it. I see his points but I also see the potential.
Also would like to see an honest in-water review of the boat and motor comparing to a traditional outboard. Doubt we'll get anything close to that but hey...a guy can dream.
That wasn't the number I had in mind when I said substantially. A boat in that adjusted price range is more than likely going to be hiding the same issues you're facing now....you'll just be paying more up front for it.
Year or two (maybe a bit more) old. So realistically, depending on...
I fail to see the difference. Once the insert is in your drawbar, you leave it there. Only thing you need to do is tighten the pin - maybe 5 additional seconds of work as compared to a traditional pin/lock?
No mods to the vehicle either.
I'd personally think you'd need to up your boat budget substantially in order to get a better boat. Even then you're not guaranteed a boat without issues.
Right now, in my area, people are starting to think about offloading boats as the dreaded "w" word has to be considered...."winterize"...
