Boat restoration 1989 Charger 1850

[chevymaher]

Tell your neighbor to put the crack pipe down and back away from the boat. Replace the transom and be done with it. Yea leave one of the most important parts out after doing all this work. The part that in a few years will be bad and all this work was for not. You got to do it again to do the transom. Or have a patch work POS boat. Just do it and have a new boat.

Take more measurements than nasa. Take a bajillion pictures. Measure it all the next day and write it all down. Day 3 measure it all and write it down. Now you think I am being funny. When you go to put it together you will even after 3 attempts need a measurement you forgot. But doing it 3 times you may be able to extrapolate it from other measurements you did take. And the white tabbing marks on the hull are your friend. They mark deck height stringer placement. You know things you forgot to measure.

Not trying to be a Richard Breath. Just psyching you up to get as much as you can. You will be thanking me in your mind when your putting it back together.

When the waves hit your bow it is all worth it. Like tomorrow for me. No rain finally.

 

[kcassells]

yea again...like Richard breath says. + pics not vids. They blow.

 

[ChargerMan1]

OK, so done cutting everything now I get to do the fun part of grinding and sanding. Can anyone give me pointers on doing this? What kind of setup to make this safe etc. What should I use to grind/sand etc. What I should wear. I found some rain gear from lowes because they didnt have what I was needing. So figured I would wear that. I have good cannister mask that I bought that I will use for this and when I'm doing the resin etc.

 

[kcassells]

You should just go thru all theses topics. They answer alot of the basics.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

 

[Original Thor]

If you can find one of these they work awesome and will save you alot of money on flapper disks. There made by Hilti.

Tyvek suit a really good respirator vacuum air compressor and cold showers. When using the grinder set the vacuum up so it sucks up the dust. Will be a life saver. Air compressor and blow chuck to blow yourself off.

 

[kirkll]

Jeez are you kidding me lol

I kid you not.... I was having the same issue trying to get mine off and finally found screws in the fold line in the apolstry.

Here is my album. I'm not tearing mine clear down and rebuilding, but i'm trying to get it back to looking good and pulling alot of badly needed maintenance.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/635Vakqi3yPpdRGJA

 

[buxmj]

Good luck with the grinding, it sucks but is such a necessary step. If you look at my thread from today, 65 Lyn Craft Seabreeze, I wrote and posted a pic of what I wore and used for PPE, it worked well for me.

 

[ChargerMan1]

OK, so grinding/sanding done. I left the edges for measurements. So, how do I do these measurements correctly?

 

[kcassells]

Stringers and bulkheads;
I used cardboard or foam for templates. kept them a little higher than floor. That way I could trim down to correct heights.
Then onto the Bulkheads. All above for fit. Then onto pb with spacers under all wood structure to keep the hard spots away.

 

[kcassells]

You need to read these;

iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work.

1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders

2. Fiberglass Information

3. Pouring Foam in's and out's

4A. Basic safety equipment for grinding and glassing

4B. Dust Collection Ideas While Grinding Fiberglass For Your Safety

5. Building your own outboard motor stand

6. Flotation/Foam Information-Calculations

7. SEACAST Review

8. Before Thinning Epoxy Read This

9. Starcraft Restoration Index

10. Proper Aluminum Paint Preparation

11. PHOTO Posting Instructions

12. Everything you need to know about snaps

13. Stress Cracks DIY step by step W/PICS

14. THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO REBUILDING A ROTTED FIBERGLASS BOAT W/ PICS & VIDEO!

15. A detailed step by step instructional on how to re deck your boat

16. Boat Specifications which are hard to find !

17. A new-windshield-old-boat-577021

18. How to replace Transoms, Stringers and Decks

19. Paint your boat for $100 w oil based enamel and catalyst hardener

20. Thinning polyester resin is NOT a good idea, here's why in post #22

21. Aluminum Boats - A FAQ About Those Rivets
Last edited by GA_Boater; October 18th, 2018, 03:41 PM.

 

[ChargerMan1]

Stringers and bulkheads;
I used cardboard or foam for templates. kept them a little higher than floor. That way I could trim down to correct heights.
Then onto the Bulkheads. All above for fit. Then onto pb with spacers under all wood structure to keep the hard spots away.

Spacers? I thought you just put PL on floor then place the stringers on top because you don't want it to touch the floor because it flexes

 

[kcassells]

To me pl blows but thats me. NO you need a 1/4" spacer at the least the length of the structure getting applied to the hull.It prohibits the "Hard" contact of the ply to the hull. There is tremendous amounts of boom and shake. Creates spider cracking etc.
As a note pl definitely has some great applications. When fiberglassing with pl you need to let the pl "GAS OFF" for a week or 2 before you apply glass. Or you will get more of your friends.....................BUBBLES from the gas.
On another note I glassed most of my stringers and bulkheads full height on a work table before I installed them then did the tabbing x2.

 

[ChargerMan1]

To me pl blows but thats me. NO you need a 1/4" spacer at the least the length of the structure getting applied to the hull.It prohibits the "Hard" contact of the ply to the hull. There is tremendous amounts of boom and shake. Creates spider cracking etc.
As a note pl definitely has some great applications. When fiberglassing with pl you need to let the pl "GAS OFF" for a week or 2 before you apply glass. Or you will get more of your friends.....................BUBBLES from the gas.
On another note I glassed most of my stringers and bulkheads full height on a work table before I installed them then did the tabbing x2.

Do you have a picture or diagram of 2hat these spacers look like? Because note sure what you mean

 

[kcassells]

They are nothing exotic. like a pencil eraser, a rubber or plastic shim cut to fit under the stringer. Then the wood gets pl or pb'd.
Hope this helps.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...n-hull-bedding-question?p=4910431#post4910431

https://www.yachtsurvey.com/HullFai...unding the bottom and locating the stringers.

 

[ChargerMan1]

OK watched Friscoboater's video of putting stringers in. I understand now what you are talking about. But he used 1/2 inch spacers instead of 1/4

 

[kcassells]

like I said.....this is not an earth shattering tech. But glad you did the research. It's a nightmare after al thehard work your doing if stress cracks show up down the line.

 

[ChargerMan1]

So quick question as I'm contemplating where these stringers need to be in reference to the indent lines that run from bow to stern (sorry don't know actual term) but when I tore into the boat there was this board that ran from front of fuel tank bulkhead to bow. And the boards were cut about 2 1/2 feet in length all the way down. Do I need to put this back in? Or can I leave out like a normal boat?

 

[kcassells]

Those ridges are called strakes. Some guys fill them with PB and set the stringers on that area. I did that. Less bs to lay stringer.
On another note I have no clue what your talking about to your second question. No pic no clue.

 

[ChargerMan1]

Thats odd I did attach pictures.

 

[ChargerMan1]

Ok so working on the engine mount. It used to be 4x4s. And I was told on here to build it like it was. So my question is, I know I should put the foam between the stringers and hull. Do I do that same for the engine mount?