Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I put the PB in a ziploc bag and then cut one corner off and then use it like a pastry bag to squeeze out the PB along the edge that needs filleting. I then use a large plastic spoon to make the coved joint. I keep it dipped in Mineral Spirits to help smooth the PB.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

This weekend I removed the cap again, cut the front stringers and glued them in. I think this was a good weekend! Lots of progress!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Yeah, I'd say that's some mighty fine work!!!

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Little update, the fillets are now done and I have started to glass the front stringers.

I was thinking NOT to put the bottom plywood of the skilocker back in, because I think it will always be soaked in water and eventually rot.. BUT what do you think, is it a structural piece of the boat? I don't want to loose any strenght.

picture of the bottom plywood:

And I was thinking to leave it like this:

Without the bottom plywood I would also have access to the hull, in case of if I drive to the rocks and the bottom needs patching.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Beautiful work!

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

So is yours! You will have a great boat when she's done!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

It's not structural. R U putting any foam in the boat? You are putting in Bulkheads at the front and back of the Ski Locker...Right? If so then I see no reason for the floor. I might add a layer of glass on that section of the hull but that's about it. As usual your glassing is exceptional. Not a bubble or wrinkle in sight. Like they say..."Smooth as Glass!!!!"

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Well my plan was to use foam but...Last week I was buying more resin from a local marine/composite shop and the guy there said that if it were his boat, he wouldn't use foam at all, because foam will always soak a little water when it is used in humid condition like boat always is.. Soo... I am not sure now.. What would you do? I am not sure but it looks to me that the foam was there for a structural purpose also?
The foam that is sold here in Finland is a mixture of polyol and diisocyanate. Are you Americans using this same foam?

Yes there is going to be bulkheads at front and back. But the front bulkhead doesn't touch the hull (see the picture) It was that way from the factory so I decided to make it the same way.

 

[zool]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Here in the states, recreational vessels under i think 21' require the manufacturers to add floatation foam, not sure if that included "remanufacturers" It may not be structural and just for compliance...Not sure of your laws or liabilities to your passengers if left out.

Nice progress btw...im still in grinding hell...

 

[chconger]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Same in Canada; flotation required by law.

I am curious as well about the structural aspects as I am leaning to putting in foam board myself. Like to see some experts chime in on this one.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

My understanding is that for a "Re-Builder" foam is not required but advisable. Closed Cell foam is that. Closed cell meaning each individual cell of the foam is a separate closed unit and almost impervious to water absorption. If it's exposed to total immersion in water it will over a Long Period of time eventually absorb some. But it does take a long time. IMHO with the care you have taken in your construction techniques and the care and maintenance I KNOW you will take in the future, I would NOT worry about water absorption of foam. I would highly recommend using in for your boat. Safety, enhancement of Hull Strength, Quieting of hull noise. Lessening of Deck flex, all of these factors make it worth the cost and effort. It's your boat and your money but that's my 2? worth on the subject.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I'll foam it

I have read about the force the foam has when it expands, that it can break things if you're not careful. So, should I pour it BEFORE I put the deck in? Or is it better to install the deck, and then drill holes and pour it after? I thought that if I pour it before the deck is installed there is no chance to break anything..?

I run out of cloth today... I need to buy more, I was thinking should I try 1708, but I don't know what is it called here in Finland Do I need to cover the whole deck with cloth or is it ok if i just tab the edges with csm and cloth and just put couple layers of csm full sized?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

You can deck the boat and then pour the foam. If you do your calculations correctly you should be able to come very close to knowing by volume how much to pour to fill the cubic feet in volume under the floor. The pour holes will allow proper venting and not allow the foam to Break anything. No Worries!!! How will your deck be finished? Gelcoat and Carpet?

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Ok. Well I my plan is to put carpet that can easily be removed. And I am also going to gelcoat the floor. So when I m going fishing I can take the carpet away.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Then, I'd do it just like my link says to do it. The 3rd layer of CSM is optional. If you want a smoother appearance you could use a 6 oz cloth as the 3rd layer.

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Hmm, I read your link, I have a problem with the hull edges when it is time to tab the deck to the hull.
You see there are flotation foam between the hull side and a thin layer of CSM. Should I cut the csm and pry the foam out for maybe 5" where deck edge ends? Like I did when I tabbed the transom If I don't cut it the deck wont be attached to the hull and it won't be strong...

 

[4Winns2]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Nice work. I'll tag along here on your resto.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

"Should I cut the csm and pry the foam out for maybe 5" where deck edge ends? Like I did when I tabbed the transom If I don't cut it the deck wont be attached to the hull and it won't be strong..."


Yes, I'd say that's the only way to ensure proper adhesion to the hull sides for the deck.

 

[elanxl]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I just read what you have been doing on your boat and wanted to say you are doing a great job. I am getting ready to do the same identical process on my 1986 Wellcraft Elan XL 197.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Thanks! You have a lot of work ahead, but it is definitely worth it! Elan XL is a great looking boat as well as your Freedom 195 4Winns2! Good luck with your projects!!