Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

[mforde]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Thanks! You have a lot of work ahead, but it is definitely worth it! Elan XL is a great looking boat as well as your Freedom 195 4Winns2! Good luck with your projects!!

Great work and photos throughout your project! It has given me inspiration to start on my boat project, Wellcraft 170 classic, not sure of the year. It has a nice galvanized trailer. No work needed there. lower unit almost complete. I have been looking for ambition to start this project again. I will have to learn the terminology thru out the restoration. Diesel Engine and hydraulic tech by trade. Going out take photos so we are all on the same page.
Woodonglass I look forward to your input for this project.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Just found your thread for the first time, Jussi-T.
You have been doing excellent work and you have been doing it fast.
Your teacher is also one of the best guys here on the forum to impart his knowledge and wisdom.
Woody is AWESOME!
I would like to come aboard and watch as you get close to completion.
Best of Luck and Keep on having Fun!
GT1M

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Mforde, it's nice to hear that my project has motivated you to get started with yours! Good luck and if you have any questions about 170 classic, feel free to ask! I am willing to help you as much as I can!

GT1M, welcome aboard! Feel free to share your opinion in my questions!

It is time for new chapter in this project, yesterday I got the stringers finished! And now it is time to start planning the deck! This moment I have been waiting!! I haven't decided yet should I do the deck or the motor mounting first.. I thought I will do the motor mount from plywood and glue the pieces together like the old mounting was also done.. But should I glue the plywoods with PB or what??


Finished stringers!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Are you familiar with Titebond III Wood Glue? Not sure if you can get it there. If so it's a great wood glue and waterproof once cured. It's what I'd use to glue up the Motor Mount. I'd then coat and cover with CSM. Stringers look GREAT!!!!

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Wood, You mean this? Titebond Ultimate III - vedenkest?v? puuliima - Liimat - Muut tarvikkeet
I am watching Friscoboaters Sea Ray project from Youtube now, He glued cleats to the stringers to get better bonding for the deck... Should I also do that? I was thinking not to do that... And what would you use to glue up the deck?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

That's the stuff!!! You can add the cleats if you wish. It's totally up to you and your preference. You can then use PB of PL to glue the deck to the stringer tops.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Ok, have to think about the cleats... I think I will use PB to glue the deck to the stringers, but I am not going to use any screws because I don't want to drill holes to the waterproofed stringers!

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Today I grinded the deck lip off and cut the CSM about 4" width for the tabbing, and also removed the foam.


Hey, does anybody have an idea where can I buy a new rubrail? I think I can't get it from Finland..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Are you wanting to buy the alumnum rail or the rubber insert for it? Post a cross sectional pic of the in rail and the insert so we can see what style and configuration it is.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

only The rubber insert. I have to take a pic of it!

I thought that should I make a hatch above the tank to the decking.. so that I would have acces to the tank if sometime is needed, if it starts to leak etc.. It requires more work thought when I cut the deck.. What do you think? IS the hatch needful?

 

[elanxl]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I would put the hatch in just in case. I am sure you would not want to have to pull the whole deck out if you did run in to a problem later on. My Wellcraft has a deck over the tank from the factory.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I think you're right, maybe I'll do that hatch!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

If you have thoroughly inspected the tank to ensure it is in good condition then I would not build the hatch but I would take precise measurements and record them to know exactly where the edges were so that if it ever became necessary you could cut that section of the deck, which would effectively be like making a hatch at that time. If the tank is sound, and installed properly, I see no reason to have access to it. You might consider replacing the fuel sending unit, That's about the only thing I can think of that you might need to have access to tank for to replace.

JMHO.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Well, I decided to put the hatch just in case. I cut the deck last weekend, today I started making the cleats.

The edges of the deck aren't cut very neat, but it's because I don't want the deck to touch the hull.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Hey, edges look ok, tha'ts what PB is for Nice transition fillet and tabbing and it'll look great. Good luck on the hatch!:joyous:

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Woody, What's your recommendation, should I screw the deck to the cleats with stainless steel screws or should I only glue them? And which one would u use? PB or PL?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Make sure the tank compartment has drainage to the bilge. You WILL get water in there from the hatch. I would use stainless bolts and stainless threaded inserts... I'd also try to devise some kind of rubber seal.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Yes there is drainage to the bilge This little "mouse hole" allows the water to drain to the bilge, but I think the water would get into the tank area even if there wasn't that hatch. Hey those threaded inserts are the way to go! I think I'll attach that hatch with them. But how about the rest of the deck, should I screw it also?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Yes, I would use stainless screws to screw the deck down. Predrill, then coat the holes and screws with resin.

 

[Jussi-T.]

Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Okay, the deck pieces are now coated with resin and I also put one layer of CSM to the back side. Cleats are now added to the stringers and the deck is ready for install

When the deck is installed, and I start the foaming, is one hole per each section enough? Or do I need to drill two or maybe more holes that the foam will spread properly?

I thought that before I screw the deck in, I'll pour water to the sections so I can measure the volume of ech section and that way I will know how much foam I need to pour