Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

johan75

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

When you assemble the new switches, you could fill them with grease. That keeps water out.

I guess you can make new holes, why not? But remember you need to be able to adjust them a little.

Yes, I changed every seal and every bushing. They aren't expensive and available in local shops here. I can send you a link or two.

I'll take a looksee at your PM
 
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Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

About the local shops, I only know Marine parts in ?land, if you know more I'm happy to hear.

Now the new holes for the trim senders are done and the shift cable is removed. I was having hard time with the shift cables brass retaining nut which was also very very tight. I had to drill it out. Next thing is to clean all the parts and then give them to my brother in law who is going to sand blast them. Then paint :)

Pics:
20140228_171840.jpg20140228_171935.jpg20140301_174222.jpg20140301_174136.jpg
 

Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Ok, tomorrow it is time to paint the gimbal parts. I am a little doubtful about the Peltipesu's (ammonia acid) product data sheet. It says: Wash carefully with Peltipesu using a brush, then rinse parts with plenty of water. I just thought, that would the ammonia do the trick to aluminium better if I'd just wash it with peltipesu and let it dry (no flushing with water at all) and then wipe it with acetone before painting?
 

johan75

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

It sounds a little strange perhaps. Peltipesu is supposed to remove all sorts of dirt, so perhaps the rinsing is to get rid of loose particles?

In any case, why not brush and wash really well with Peltipesu and then do the ammonia + acetone round just before painting?

Have you tested the paint, at least the primer, in your spray-gun?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

It's an acid. Why would you want to leave ANY traces of it on a part pre-paint? :confused: Flushing w/ water is to neutralize the acid.....
 

Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

It's an acid. Why would you want to leave ANY traces of it on a part pre-paint? :confused: Flushing w/ water is to neutralize the acid.....

That makes sense .. Soo I rinsed them with water really well.

It was a busy weekend, but now the parts are painted. That Inerta 165 sure is like Iron when it dries!
I was going to add some pics, but in some reason I can't.. I'll try later :)

What do yall think about should I use bellows adhesive when assembling the gimbal? And should I put some sealant between transom and shield? I have a new transom seal of course but I thought an extra sealant wouldn't be harm..
 

johan75

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

It was a busy weekend, but now the parts are painted. That Inerta 165 sure is like Iron when it dries!
Yup, like iron with a surface of glass :) In a couple of weeks or so they should be completely cured.

What do yall think about should I use bellows adhesive when assembling the gimbal? And should I put some sealant between transom and shield? I have a new transom seal of course but I thought an extra sealant wouldn't be harm..

Yes to both. You must put bellows adhesive for good results and I'd recommend some sealant between the transom and shield too. I used Kent Sili Gasket, as I happened to have some in black. Some other marine stuff you have on the shelf will probably work just as well or better.

Good work with the painting, btw. You'll be able to splash her soon!

Cheers,

Johan
 

Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

You'll be able to splash her soon!

Cheers,

Johan


This is Music to my ears!! :D But yes, the Big Day is getting closer ;)

Where did you got that bellows adhesive? I looked from Marineparts, but couldn't find any? I guess I'll use Kent Sili gasket too, that's familiar product for me from car repairs and I think I have it in stock.

Once again, thanks for the paints Johan!
 

johan75

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I'll check what adhesive product I used, but give me some time. I need to dig in my old files and papers. Eventually any contact glue should work I guess, so you might not need to get anything special. But you need to follow the manual regarding the bellows, sand a little, use adhesive and so on.

Yup, Sili Gasket is used a lot. It's a great product, at least for engines :)

You're welcome, but we'd love to see some pictures ;)
 

Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

No need to start digging your old papers! I think I'll ask from a local marine shop if they have, or what do they recommend to use.
I'd love to add some pictures, but I guess there's some problem with this site right now..

I found an old tool from work which I found very handy in removing the steering shaft upper bushing. Originally this tool is for removing the clutch shaft eye bearing from old Vw:s :D I work in an Vw workshop. Well we have 6 other brands also.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I think it woulda looked better if it was Pink with Purple Polka Dots!!!!:eek::D
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Just Yankin Yer Chain!!!! Looks GREAT!!! As usual!!!!!
 
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GT1000000

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Looking spiffy! Nice job...:)
 

Jussi-T.

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Thanks guys :) What does "Spiffy" mean? :D
 

theoldwizard1

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I just caught up on this thread !

I think it is so cool that we have a new-to-boat-restoration person in Finland get advice and consoling from around the world !

I'm going to throw out a few tips that are probably too late for you, but might help others who are reading this thread.

If you want to patch pitted cast or even sheet/plate aluminum most people use a type of epoxy called MarineTex. The surface needs to be very clean and free of all oxidation. If there is oxidation remaining in deep pits, use a die grinder and a bur to remove it. Wipe the surface clean with acetone before applying the epoxy.

When painting aluminum many people with aluminum hull boats do a wipe down with acetone. Then they use "self etching" metal primer, available from most paint suppliers.

You can use alkyd enamel with a hardener for a finish coat. This is type of paint is used on tractors atingnd other industrial equipment so it is very durable.
 

Jussi-T.

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

I just caught up on this thread !

I think it is so cool that we have a new-to-boat-restoration person in Finland get advice and consoling from around the world !
I have to say Iboats is the NUMBER ONE site for boat builders. We have boating forums in Finland as well but I think they aren't nearly as good as Iboats. I think without this site and especially without Woodys counsel I wouldn't been able to do this restoration. I had never done any glassing job before I jumped into this project, but Woody taught me well! :)
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Teachers are no better or worse than their students! You ARE a GREAT student!!!;)
 

johan75

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Re: Wellcraft 170 Classic -89 full restoration

Yup, I got the ones you linked from Marineparts, but Gen 1 in my case, if there's a difference. Get a new Anode-bolt kit if your old bolts are rusty or otherwise not in good shape. You're hopefully not going to remove those in a few decades. BTW, I put Sili Gasket around the bolts too.

About my old bolts; Yeah, one of them was a bit "tired". A good example what happens when people don't take care of their boats.
 
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