'1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

[chrishayes]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Way to go man! I am anxious to see how you remidy the deck drainage around the fuel fill...I have played it out so may times in my mind that I am pretty sure what I will do at that time but it wont hurt to see others ingenuity! Keep at it man, you will be done before long at the pace you are moving.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

I just saw your video and was laughing pretty good when I saw the leaf blower. I do all my grinding in the driveway so when I'm done, I use a little dust pan to clean up the dust inside boat and then use the leaf blower on everything and watch the dust fly all over to my neighbor's yard, house and cars. Kind of payback for a dog that barks from 2am till dawn.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

You have to stand proud at the work you have done. You have given me several ideas and tips that I will be using (with your permission of course) when I get the nerve to start mine. One question I do have is, what size plywood did you use? Be careful flipping that hull and keep up the fantastic work. Can't wait to see more.
Bill

Thanks howln,
I made this thread to share my experience and ideas with others. N permission needed for using these methods. If they work, use and claim full credit. As long as it helps you, my day is made. As for the plywood, I used 3/4" for the transom, stringers and bulkheads and 5/8" for the deck. I'll use 1/2" for the above deck stuff (bow seat frames, jump seats, etc) and likely 3/8" for the engine cover to keep it light.

Lowkee I've been a lurker for a little bit and wanted to congratulate you on getting that deck finished, nice work

Thanks Huron, it has been a long time coming and feel like a true milestone. At least I get to change gears for a while and work on the paint, now.

Great job lowkee. I just read this entire thread today. And although I'm only in the 'check to see if the power plant works' stage, I can't wait to dig in deeper.

I can't say I'll be lining up to do this again, but it has been a very fulfilling experience. I know I'll never be afraid to tear something apart again, no matter how daunting it appears. This rebuild taught me that nothing is 'magical' and if someone else can build something.. so can I.

Hey lowkey, its looking really good. Thanks for the recap photos, it makes keeping track of projects easier. It sure looks like the deck is strong! No chance of flex there. I like how you obviously spent a lot of time planning the rebuild, and it shows.

...If you can pick up the stainless steel pot scrubbers (stainless wool) at the local food store (A&P, ShopRite, etc) and go over the threads to remove the steel residue.

...Kind of late for this, but when laying glass and it sticks out past the edge of the board, I found it easy to trim off with scissors while the resin is setting rather than have to grind it later.

Thanks Mark,
There are still some deck wish-list items I wanted to do (like a cover over the fuel tank), but I had to draw the line somewhere in order to move on. I'm not sure if my grinder wire wheel is made of stainless steel or not, but if it isn't, I'll be sure to take off the coating of metal from the threads. Thanks for the tip. As for the glass tabs.. I knew it would take some grinding, but I had a lot of poly to apply (I did all pieces at once) and by the time I finished up enough to cut the tabs off they were already solid. I didn't mind the grinding simply because it was nice to do some glass work in the upright position for a change. My back was some happy to be working on sawhorses. The whole inverted U body form from bending over while working on the hull and stringers is one I won't miss any time soon.

Way to go man! I am anxious to see how you remedy the deck drainage around the fuel fill...I have played it out so may times in my mind that I am pretty sure what I will do at that time but it wont hurt to see others ingenuity! Keep at it man, you will be done before long at the pace you are moving.

To be honest, I'll likely just mount a drain wherever the water ends up pooling when I take it for the first water test. I didn't really plan for a specific placement, so anywhere will do in my mind.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Yep, it has been a while since my last update, but rest assured, I have tons of photo goodness to make up for it! I have been hard at work the entire time and things moving forward nicely. I didn't flip the hull as intended, as I just couldn't figure a means to do it alone. As a close second, I rigged up a means to tilt the boat sideways, so each side could be done individually. This, so far, has been working out well enough. Today I'm at the point of applying my first layer of primer on the hull, so here are the missing bits to get you caught up..

Needing room in the garage, the cap found a resting place in the yard. I'm resting it on some sawhorses for sanding, priming and eventual painting.

The first time I've seen my trailer empty. While the hull is in the garage I'll take the opportunity to rewire it, install new lights, new bunks, new rollers, new wheel bearings, new u-clamps (the existing ones look scary-corroded) and rebuild the ball receiver assembly.. and maybe paint that old rusty crank, too.

I wasn't able to flip the hull on my own, so this will have to do. I'm lifting it via the bow and stern eyes. Note the yellow chain.. it goes from one stern eye to the other. This allows me to simply move the chain fall hook from one side of the chain to the other in order to lift the respective hull side. Works quite well.

Here is the gantry I made for lifting the hull. it is made using landscape timbers, as HD was having a $2/ea special, which made them as cheap as 2x4's (they have the added benefit of being handy for landscaping, too ).

Another look at the gantry build, for those looking to duplicate it. I added a brace against the side wall as the verticals began to tip sideways at one point.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

I put coaster wheels on a wide platform to allow me to roll the hull around the garage without the trailer. The hull rests completely on those two center boards. The center boards are spaced to exactly line up with the two bottom chines, so it is in fact a 'seat' of sorts.

The hull sure looks big tipped up like this. I have a lot of sanding ahead of me..

I began to use a razor to remove the the pinstriping and decals but it was just going too slow and I kept digging into the gelcoat with the blade. The decals were on there for 20 years and they certainly weren't going to fall off for me. I ended up ordering a pinstripe removal wheel to remove it all, which was a FANTASTIC move.

Once I received my pinstripe wheel, I mounted in on my drill and went to work. The wheels are supposed to spin at 4000 RPM, but all I had handy was a drill at 700RPM, but it worked okay anyhow. The best part of the wheel is it also removes the adhesive while normally clogs up your sanding pads and ruins an otherwise fresh pad. Now keep in mind, using the wheel does not make the job go lightning fast.. it still took me a good 75 minutes to do the entire hull, but compare that to the 4-5 hours it would have taken, and the gelcoat damage from the razor and the lost sanding pads from the leftover glue. Yes, pinstripe wheels are WELL worth the price. For reference, I paid $16 shipped for mine. It is called 'Astro Pneumatic Smart Eraser' and was great (and WAY cheaper than the 3M version).

I began filling in the scratches and gouges alike using poly, Cabosil and 3M bubbles. I used a plastic spreader to spread it on. A hint to those getting to this step.. use firm pressure and recoat as needed. Sanding over-filled blotches down is difficult and wastes tons of sanding pads.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

The very bottom was covered in deep gouges. It looked as though it was dragged sideways through a parking lot. I ended up spreading filler along the entire length of the hull on both sides of the very bottom. I got pretty anal about filling every nick and scratch. If I could see it, it got filled and sanded smooth.

The transom took quite a bit of sanding as it had drip and runs of poly all over it from the transom replacement. I don't plan to use a speedometer, so the filler to the right is to remove the pitot tube mounts and thru-hull. Sanding off that goop the previous owner applied to the bell housing was a true pain. I ended up having to sand into the gelcoat, them filling it back in.

When sanding the entire hull you tend to find even the tiniest of nicks, then when you have filler in hand they all seem to vanish into the expanse of the hull. So ensure I didn't miss any repair spots I used a sharpie to mark any spot needing attention. Circles for more filler, crosses for more sanding.

Oh the sanding.. I had a bottle of MEKP die on me, so the poly filler I spread on the hull never heardened. Of couse I didn't know it was the MEKP, so I coated on the MEKP filled layer of resin on top in hope of hardening the filler. This, of course, just added a non-hardening layer of resin to an already bad situation. After swapping out the MEKP for a fresher bottle, one more coat of resin finally got the whole shebang to harden. This, naturally, meant I had three layers to sand down instead of one thin layer. Those were not a fun filled solid two days of sanding.

After all of the sanding, I pressure washed the hull in preparation for priming. This is as shiny as I've ever seen the hull. Almost makes me want to just polish it.. almost.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

The sanding is complete. Notice the transom hole is finally clean and goop-free.

I ended up getting my hole repair pretty well wave-free. You can just barely feel a slight wobble if you run your hand across it. I don't own a long board, so that will have to do.

Notice how much filler ended up staying on the bottom in order to keep it smooth. Poor hull was beaten senseless by the previous owners.

Last look at the hull in its grey form. Next stop, primer white.. then more sanding

 

[fiberglass guy]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

The sanding is complete. Notice the transom hole is finally clean and goop-free.

I ended up getting my hole repair pretty well wave-free. You can just barely feel a slight wobble if you run your hand across it. I don't own a long board, so that will have to do.

Notice how much filler ended up staying on the bottom in order to keep it smooth. Poor hull was beaten senseless by the previous owners.

Last look at the hull in its grey form. Next stop, primer white.. then more sanding

I've been following your post and I must say that you've done an exceptional job. I'm currently doing almost the same job and I've been waiting for you to post your video on how you laid out the plywood for your floor. That would be very helpful. Will you have time to do this in the near future? Mind you I'm not pushing, just hoping. Again nice job.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

I've been following your post and I must say that you've done an exceptional job. I'm currently doing almost the same job and I've been waiting for you to post your video on how you laid out the plywood for your floor. That would be very helpful. Will you have time to do this in the near future? Mind you I'm not pushing, just hoping. Again nice job.

Thanks for the compliment, FG. You aren't the only one waiting on that video. Luckily your timing for posting couldn't be better, as I just posted it last night! And yeah, yeah, pushy person!

Here is the video for making a template for a new deck:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=348097

Here is a video for patching a hole in a hull:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=348100

I'm going to try and make random videos like this more often. They are kind of fun to make and I know a video speaks 10x more words than a picture

 

[thrillhouse700]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Sweet job lowkee!!!! All you guys inspire me. I watched your videos pretty informative. Luckily my boat is a tri-hull so the deck will be slightly easier for me to lay in.

We are a few steps behind you, about to go work on the stringer, bilge maybe deck now Can't wait to see your post of you painting!!!!

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

A minor update for today. I have finished priming and sanding one side of the hull. It has been slow going as I had a mishap with my new HVLP spray gun. Never having used an HVLP before, I didn't realize just how poorly it was spraying and the primer went on horribly (huge globules which dried resembling 80 grit sand paper ). So I then had to sand the entire hull again down to 320 grit. This or course was a giant waste of time, then again, this restore has been a string of learning experiences, and at least this one didn't happen while applying the paint. I can live with wasted primer, but paint is expensive. Of course, all of this explains why one coat on one side of the hull took a full quart of primer.. because it was going on way too thick! Hopefully the other side and the stern will be a much more rewarding experience.

On to the photos..

Here is the hi-tech setup for painting the boat. Yep, that is a cheap $40 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. The thinner is needed for spraying as Pettit assumes you are roll-and-tip'ing it from the can.

I primed one side of the hull so far. It took forever and I, never having used an HVLP gun before, had no idea if the slowness was normal or not. As I was cleaning the gun after finishing a heavy coat it began spraying MUCH better.. ends up I was supposed to thin the paint 15% for spraying.. oops! That lesson was a tough one, as the primed hull ended up feeling like 80 grit sandpaper when it dried. So much for my awesome prep job.

How's this for an awesome prep job! Only those tiny spots need more filler. Not bad, eh? For reference, that tan spot to the left is the hole patch.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

And this, folks, is why you use primer. The bottom felt 'smooth enough' before I sprayed the primer on the keel section. After sanding this is what remained. It was obviously not perfectly smooth and needed that last 1/32" of filling to get there. It is now super-smooth and a far cry from the gouge infested region it was a week ago.

This is why you just concentrate on what you are doing and not what you still have left to do..

After two solid days of re-sanding, this side is finally ready for paint.

I may or may not have another update before I head up the LBL in Kentucky. Hopefully I'll have the first coat of paint on it before I leave. Here's hoping..

 

[chrishayes]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

that is one heck of a nice job man! All I have to ask is, are you unemployed The amount of work you are putting in is obviously not weekends and a night here and there. Am I right?

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Hey Low one..
Did I ever tell you that you are one CRAAAZY sonofabeeech..oh I did..and you still are!!!

I'm exhausted just following along! lol

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

that is one heck of a nice job man! All I have to ask is, are you unemployed The amount of work you are putting in is obviously not weekends and a night here and there. Am I right?

I work on the boat about one hour per day.. Yeah right! I have all day every day to work on this tub. This is my multi-month vacation activity. If you are going to be unemployed, get busy being unemployed. After the boat is complete, I still have a full page of to-do items.. you can never be unemployed long enough..

 

[Numlaar]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

I work on the boat about one hour per day.. Yeah right! I have all day every day to work on this tub. This is my multi-month vacation activity. If you are going to be unemployed, get busy being unemployed. After the boat is complete, I still have a full page of to-do items.. you can never be unemployed long enough..

Hehe I am right with ya there Lowkee... been out of work for 7 months now...

So I keep very busy on my rebuild, and humongous to do list... (Plus I am clearing an acre lot, and building a cabin too).

Thought I would chime in, I didnt realize this was "your" restore thread... I see you have popped in a few times on mine, and wanted to return the favor...

You have done a tremendous job!!! Very top notch work. I will be glad to see it all completed too!

Its a race now heh!!!

I figure 2-3 more weeks and I'll be back on the water. We will definitely need to celebrate!

Keep up the awesome work my friend!

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Well, tons more sanding, priming and even a coat of paint is down. Plenty of photos and not much actual progress, so I'll let the photos do the talking.

Ignorant as to how much sanding is really required to make things perfectly smooth, I took this photo thinking the hull was fully sanded, smooth and ready for primer.

Since I am spraying on the primer, I taped off the underneath leading to the other side of the hull. I learned that lesson from the first side.. tons of harsh overspray which took forever to sand smooth.

After shooting the primer and royally messing it up, I read about a trick to easily visualize if something is sanded completely smooth. Using some flat black rattle can paint, spray on a misting of black all over the surface. This is called a 'guide coat' and allows you to know whether or not you have more sanding to do to get things smooth.

It looks like some gang blew past and tagged my boat. I can't believe I willing did this to my boat!

Before I began sanding a certain spot, as an example.

As you can see, my initial sanding job prior to priming was horrid and the primer just made it worse from the orange peel effect.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

What it looked like after sanding off all of the guide coat. It feels super smooth now, nothing like it was beforehand.

The transom has never looked better, and this is only primer! Of course, what you can't see because it is white is there are runs and drips everywhere which need to be sanded smooth, not to mention the guide coat hasn't been applied yet.

I am now willingly banishing myself from ever using an HVLP gun again! Look at those runs!

After 3 full days of sanding, all the way to 500 grit, the boat is finally ready for the first coat of paint. I hand sanded 320 and 500 prior to this photo.. amazingly sanding with the finer paper isn't that demanding and was kind of relaxing. Not that I want to do it again.

20 feet of sanding bliss..

For those wondering why the top ridge looks so well done.. it was already white, so you just can't see anything, but trust me, it took just as much to get smooth.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

After 1 1/2 hours of rolling and tipping, here is the result. I am super pleased with how nice it looks! It wasn't without its challenges, though. Due to it having so many bloody chines tipping it from top to bottom was near impossible, so I ended up rolling it out horizontally. A side effect of this method was I had to do one chine section at a time, so there is a small ridge along each chine where the paint overlap is. I figure I'll just sand that smooth when it dries.

Shiney! All in all, roll and tip is certainly the way to go!

I can see myself! The nose is a little messed up since i had to change it up and roll and tip horizontally. Keep in mind, this is only the 1st half, so I still have the other side to do. I also did 1/2 the transom. All is not perfect, though. As time goes on a bunch of tiny sags are appearing throughout, as brushing horizontally doesn't get rid of excess paint like top-to-bottom tipping would have done. Luckily they are small sags and won't be horrible sanding out. The second coat will hide them even more. There are also some bare spots, which the second coat will fix.

 

[lowkee]

Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

So, for review, here are some side by sides for the fun of it:

After messing up the spraying so badly, I have to say, the roll and tip method, although time consuming, is certainly the way to go. You really can't screw it up beyond laying on too much paint. For those about to roll and tip, I have one very important tip for you..

Don't worry if you aren't getting full coverage, that is why it requires 2-3 coats. Too much paint (even if it looks thin) will sag. Let the second or third coat (if needed) finish the job like it is meant to do.

There, my wise old man advise for the day

Cherrio!