Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration
Those preforms look like they could save a whole heck of a lot of time if you can get the right sizes. I think Cigarette uses those now.
Jay,
I see you have a hard working helper there with you in the back gorund. Atta boy.
I may be wrong, but the red line in the snapshot below looks like the bottom of your stringer. It doesn?t look like you have much more to go to remove it all. The floor could help hold the stringer in place when you set it.
Etching out the stringer is where your small vibrating saw with shine. Just cut through the glass and don?t worry about the wood. Try to remove as much as possible in one piece to use as a template and try to cut right where it bonds to the hull. That will save you on some grinding dust too. I probably went through 6 half circle blades. When the blade gets hot and starts to discolor, rotate the saw or take a break and let it cool down. The blades will last longer. I was amazed at how quick it would zip through the glass once the planets aligned. I don?t know if the resin was melting or the harmonics were just right, but mine would cut through it like a cheese cutter when things synced up. It didn't work too good on wood though. It wanted to burn it rather than cut.
Your layup will surely be plenty strong (2xCSM & 2x1708). You may have trouble laying that 1708 down in the corners though. 12 oz tape (no CSM) makes the turns easier. You?ve worked with the 1708 before on your transom, you know. It lays down nicely on flats, but it can be tricky to get it to turn much without raising up and getting an air bubbles. You may want to try it on some scrap first. Router the top corner edges of your stringers. You could probably cap them in your garage, then put them in. It you tab them in well enough, I don't think they have to go all the way to the hull.
2 layers of 3/8 is what I used to get the 10? length that I needed. If I didn?t need 10? stringers, I would have probably just used .5? ply. It was hard for me to get a good, void free bond between the 2 long ply layers without some sort of big press. The plys would shift and my edges would become unaligned and I didn't have a ton of cinder blocks laying around.
I glued 1x3 cleats onto the vertical edges of my stringers and frames to increase the bonding surfaces to the floor (sole/deck whatever people want to call it). The tops of my stringers were rounded so I filled up the edge voids between the cleats and stringer with glue, set the floor ply down. All should be sealed up air tight.
Not sure about the Bravo drive, but the Alpha can leak water past the shift linkage into the bellows area. You Bravo looks completely different though.
Weather should be good this week/weekend. The job will look a lot smaller once you get that motor and fuel tank out.
Good luck,
JH
