Deck coating / Turned complete restore

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ahmincha

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Thanks jb as usual it was me that was confused
 

ahmincha

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picture from the stern toward the bow just fiberglass no wood
 
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ahmincha

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The last picture is the only wood that resembles a stringer it is basically where the hull meets the gunwales about 2" high and is notched where the 1x tie in
 

ahmincha

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I cut out all decking to ts gunwales there is a 1x 3 running 2/3 of the boat that is only glassed on the inside. the deck sits on top of it and the 1x that run port to starboard are cut into them
 

ahmincha

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I also cut out the middle foredeck
 
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jigngrub

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What are your plans for building it back Minch? Are you going to try to put it back like it was, or maybe try to do something better?
 

ahmincha

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Basic design will stay the same The storage at the stern was a little small so i want to make them a little bigger. As for the bow that old upper foredeck storage was not really storage because it was open to the bilge. my plan is to add a bulkhead about 18" forward of the old middle foredeck from deck to top of gunwales and add a windlass. Now for the questions
Can I seal off the opening at the bow to the bilge?
Does the bilge have to go all the way to the bow as it does now or can I fill that with foam to the fuel tank but not around tank
My transom seems to be solid but I want to make sure can I use a 3/4 hole saw and do some core samples then fill them with peanut butter
More ? when they pop in my head thanks
Ideas are welcome
 

CobyAhh

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I would not seal the bow opening, personally. You want air flow through the bilge to keep things moving and dry. Also, though poured foam seems very popular on this site, I am totally against it at this point. Its the very reason all the wood in my boat rotted. Its a quick and cheap factory method for disposable boats. I changed my design to where all stringers and bulkheads have a drain hole at their low point. It put a couple 1" plugs in the bilge area where they end up, to drain everything and air it out when not in the water. Then i painted bilge paint along the corners of stringers and bilge (where water can 'flow'), probably overkill. Last, for foam im using extruded foam board insulation (blue or pink stuff) cut and laid on edge, front to back, to allow air and water flow. Just going with my gut
 

Gibbles

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Funny how this works, started by something simple, and turns into a re build :)

Lookin good so far!

Next thing you know, you will start looking for a project boat, with the thought... "well I would like something a tad larger... and heck that other boat was not that bad at all!" (this is where the insanity starts... :lol: )

Keep it up!
 

jigngrub

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Can I seal off the opening at the bow to the bilge?
Does the bilge have to go all the way to the bow as it does now or can I fill that with foam to the fuel tank but not around tank
My transom seems to be solid but I want to make sure can I use a 3/4 hole saw and do some core samples then fill them with peanut butter
More ? when they pop in my head thanks
Ideas are welcome

Yes you can seal off the opening at the bow.

I would fill that keel void solid with foam, it looks to me like the only reason it wasn't filled is because it was a crappy foam job:


No sense having a void in the keel if you're going to dam it up in the middle of the boat with foam like in the red area, that void wasn't doing anything but trapping and holding water. Filling it with foam will prevent water from entering and being trapped.

The incomplete filling of the below deck voids in the yellow areas show just what a crappy foaming job they did.


Core sampling your transom is a real good idea and filling the holes with PB will be a good fix. Be sure to core near the bottom of the transom just below the motor mounting bolts. Motor mount bolt leaks are a common cause of transom rot.
 

jbcurt00

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Also, though poured foam seems very popular on this site, I am totally against it at this point. Its the very reason all the wood in my boat rotted. Its a quick and cheap factory method for disposable boats.
I couldn't disagree more.

Pour in foam IMO the BEST alternative for both flotation purposes and added benefits of hull stiffness, sound deadening and support of the deck .
I also believe that foam is ALSO A VICTIM of poor owner maintenance that causes it too to fail, which then traps water and starts the cascade of other associated problem, including wood rot.

I think Jig's boat is a PERFECT example of how a good design by the factory originally, AND PROPER care by an owner shows that pour in foam is & can be a GREAT product that doesn't HAVE to fail.

Ask him, he will gladly discuss his thoughts on the matter and show you the pix of his boat's below deck foam when he redid bis deck.

If your boat was designed w an open bilge, I would plan to redo it that way, w possibility of air flow to help keep below decks dry.

Keep it covered, bow up, drain plugs removed & hatches ooen.

Its a lot of work, this sickness call boat rehab, why not take care of it when you're finished?
 

ahmincha

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Thanks for the comments CobyAhh There really is not that much wood under the deck I think foam is what gives it its strength.

As of right now Gibbles I hope your wrong about me wanting to do another haha

Jig the area in red is above the fuel tank there was a small area under the tank that water was suppose to go thru. That is why I thought more foam would make for a more solid boat and if water can not get in there why have a bilge that long

jb I didn't plan on getting rid of the complete bilge just in front of the tank. then set tank with air space around tank with drain holes to bilge just in case water gets in there
 

ahmincha

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I new you guys were wrong that my transom was rotted. Not only not rotted but the manufacturer even stained it a dark walnut
 
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Woodonglass

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They made it out of "Soft Wet Wood" so it would be compatible with the Lake Environment and would ride softer over the Waves! ALL boats should be that way. Sooooo why ae you Replacing it??? Just for Practice I presume:confused:
 
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