1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[Axkiker]

No Title

Few pics from the inside. Anyone see anything majorly wrong? Tabbing is 2 layers of 1708. 5 layers of 1708 over the pad should put me just over 2"

Curious about the drain hole. I see that some are pbing in a piece of plastic conduit. Is this needed when this portion is solid PB ???

Thanks

 

[Rickmerrill]

I didn't think about thaaaat! Maybe we're missing the obvious, what if you pull the gasket out and mount the bell housing, not too tight, then go around with your feeler gauges?

 

[Axkiker]

I didn't think about thaaaat! Maybe we're missing the obvious, what if you pull the gasket out and mount the bell housing, not too tight, then go around with your feeler gauges?

Thats probably a good option. It will be a pain since I still have the outside section together but it may be the only way I can get a true measurement.

I need to check the gimbal housing itself to see how true it is. I kinda think that if it were originally installed on something that wasnt perfectly true it may have taken on some of that bend.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Let's try again, darn upgrade... If I'm understanding you, naw that casting isn't going to bend/conform to nothin - it would break first. I'm thinking all you need to do is remove 6 bolts to free the bell housing but maybe I'm missing something. Your glassing looks great to me. I think the only reason they use a pipe is it's easier than drilling through that much glass. The PB isn't going to stick so good so it's not 100% watertight. They even recommend grinding a few spiral groves on the outside of the pipe to help hold it in place. Not a problem though, it would take many decades for water to get to your transom wood by osmosis through that much PB.

 

[Axkiker]

Let's try again, darn upgrade... If I'm understanding you, naw that casting isn't going to bend/conform to nothin - it would break first. I'm thinking all you need to do is remove 6 bolts to free the bell housing but maybe I'm missing something. Your glassing looks great to me. I think the only reason they use a pipe is it's easier than drilling through that much glass. The PB isn't going to stick so good so it's not 100% watertight. They even recommend grinding a few spiral groves on the outside of the pipe to help hold it in place. Not a problem though, it would take many decades for water to get to your transom wood by osmosis through that much PB.

Im talking about the outside portion of the drive... I think its called the gimbal ring and housing. Isnt the bellhousing attached to the inside of the boat and motor???

When I say that I still have it together I mean that I have the gimbal ring still in the housing and still have the hydraulic cylinders attached all as a unit. I wasnt planning on disassembling this but maybe ill have to in order to do some measurements.

 

[Axkiker]

Another question I have is what is the reasoning behind putting CSM over the entire transom? Is it structural or only for water proofing ???

 

[Woodonglass]

Mostly waterproofing but...With the 1708 it's not actually necessary any longer to have a preliminary layer of CSM since the 1708 has it stitched to the back of it

 

[Axkiker]

What is everyone doing about rain when they are trying to install stringers? I am to the point where I can start to PB in the rear stringers and bulkhead. My issue is I know that I wont be able to completely finish the section after work tomorrow. The next couple days are calling for rain. Sooooo do you all just leave the portions of wood that didnt get glassed exposed to the elements. or do you wait until you have several days you can work without rain.and completly finish them.

I do have a cover but like most covers it does slightly leak. I would hate for the wood to absorb any water then me glass over it.

Thanks

 

[bigdirty]

Does anyone ever use sealant when installing the gimbal housing. I know it has gaskets etc but would it hurt to add some??? Considering the thing will most likely never come off within the amount of time ill own it ???

Any thoughts.

NO! :lol:

IMHO if there is a gasket on something, it needs NOTHING ELSE on it, just a clean flat surface(s). I've seen so much rtv/sealant mess on things over the years it blows my mind... if anything, I will use a small amount of 'aviation sealant' (very sticky stuff, but a thin layer is helpful sometimes) on a gasket, to hold in in place during assembly perhaps, but a gasket or o-ring usually does its job just fine on it's own.

 

[bigdirty]

site is not working for me again..about the rain, ya... you gota keep it out somehow.. tape up any cleats or railing/through hull fittings and wrap a tarp over it.. last ditch, stuff rags/sponges/ towels in spots where water can or does run in to sop it up and keep it off your exposed bulkheads and stringers... I got lucky and caught 3 days in a row with no rain so i went at it then, but temps weren't in my favour.. hence a few issues I had..

 

[Rickmerrill]

You'll be much better off if you can keep the boat dry. If an unexpected shower pops up and the laminate is still wet it can make for a really bad day. Water can also make fresh dry laminate get cloudy which you'll need to sand off if it's not your last coat. You'll have bonding issues if the wood gets wet. You don't want the threat of rain to dictate your every move so you really ought to have a way to cover it up. There are several examples of tarps and PVC pipe that work well and it's pretty cheap to build. Friscoboater has an example of one in his video's - I think he built it because he got tired of wrestling with his boat cover.

 

[Axkiker]

I will have to look into some type of shelter. I do remember seeing the rid Frisco built for his. May be a good idea to rig up something like that.

 

[Axkiker]

How many of you all who restore a boat completly rewire it. My boat had so many hacks it appeared as if a beaver went to town so I just tore everything out keeping only the engine harness and fuse panel.


Is there a basic harness I can buy which would include the wires already color coded. Would it be better to just build my own. If so where are you buying the wire as you would need several sppols of many different colors to not be confused.

 

[tpenfield]

Yes, I have seen harnesses for sale online. You would need to match up the type of connector, but you should be able to buy pre-made harnesses in a length close to your needs. It will cover the basic engine wiring. The lights and other accessories will be on you.

 

[Axkiker]

Speaking of wiring, does mercruiser offer diagrams for specific engine models / years online. Anyone happen to have a link if so?

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

http://www.mercurymarine.com/media/...iagram_1.2_2.8_4.2_Wiring_Diagram_3970674.pdf

 

[Axkiker]

http://www.mercurymarine.com/media/...iagram_1.2_2.8_4.2_Wiring_Diagram_3970674.pdf

Perfect.... Many thanks!!!

 

[Axkiker]

Another quick question. So I know it is not recommended that you apply poly over epoxy in typical structural situations. I started to make a dash bezel from scratch back in the winter and used epoxy since that is what I could get locally. Now that I have an abundant supply of poly I would like to finish it up with poly. If I sand the surface prior would there be any reason to not use the poly. i know its not ideal but then is not a structural part. Its just a dash bezel. I have a little bit of filling and a couple layers of glass to apply in a small area with poly.

Any thoughts.

 

[Woodonglass]

It's not a structural matter. It's just the simple case that poly will not adhere to epoxy. If, BIG IF you sand with 60 grit and acetone wash it you MIGHT be successful, But there's not guarantees.

 

[Axkiker]

When working with fiberglass how long after it is hard is it acceptable to get it wet ? Trying to time out some incoming rain

Thanks