1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[Axkiker]

So in my last fiberglass order I apparently goofed and ordered milled fibers instead of 1/4 chop for my PB. would it be okay to use just milled fibers for the PB to filet the floor to the sides or will I need to either buy or make some 1/4 or make it.

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Sooo how big are the fibers??

 

[Axkiker]

Sooo how big are the fibers??

Sorry i just assumed they were all the same size... It says 1/8 milled fibers.... I dont really see anything in there 1/8th inch but thats what it says.

 

[Woodonglass]

Use em they'll be fine. About 1/3 cup per quart of resin.

 

[Axkiker]

Well, I am finally installing the floor... Good Lord I never thought I would see the day. I have been sealing the screws as I install the wood with pL glue then using it to fill in the top countersink.

Is this an acceptable practice. I didnt pay much attention during the start but figured I would ask before I got too far along.

Thanks

 

[jigngrub]

If you're going to glass the deck in (as it should be)you'll have to wait 72 hrs. for the PL to cure and quit off-gassing.

 

[Axkiker]

If you're going to glass the deck in (as it should be)you'll have to wait 72 hrs. for the PL to cure and quit off-gassing.

Yes, I will be glassing it in... Thanks for the heads up on the gassing

 

[Axkiker]

Another quick question. I am trying to decide between gelcoating everything (floor and sides etc) Or possibly going with gelcoat on the floor and carpeting up the sides and under the consoles. Since the console support and front seat sections are built from wood they will need to be coated or carpetd as well. If I were to carpet do I need to cover everything in glass prior. Or would it be okay to seal them in something then carpet. I thought that since the pieces are above the water and not flat where water could set maybe it was okay to not glass and just seal.

Or maybe not..


What says ya ???


Thanks

 

[bigdirty]

Depends how picky you are, and how much water splashes around those areas on a regular basis I suppose.. Personally, i would say gel the floor, and carpet the rest. Any bare vertical wood to get carpet, paint before hand. Although, if the bases of the seats sit on the horizontal/flat floor, I would maybe use some 1/4" plastic or rubber under the corners/edges..

 

[Axkiker]

What are you all using for a bilge coat. Is there an epoxy I can get local that will work. I really hate to order anyrthing. Seems like ive read something abotu people using rustolem epoxy or maybe epoxy garage coating. Also heard about flowcoat.

Any thoughts on what is best

 

[Axkiker]

So after a little research I think I have decided to go with Tile Clad. Since you must buy it in 2 gal qtys I beleive ill also have enough for the floor. Anyone have any thoughts on using it like this. After reading the tech sheets it seems perfect for the bilge area. I figure why not roll it on the top of the floor as well

Any thoughts ? Anyone applied this stuff before. I know its labeled as a high solids so im curious how it goes on.

Thanks

 

[Axkiker]

Any Tile Clad users out there ??

 

[Rickmerrill]

I did a google search for "tile clad iboats" and got a few hits, you might want to read those. Other than that call the mfg, tell them where you're using it and see what they say.

 

[jigngrub]

Hey ax, I see you're using the Advantech osb. Are you doing anything to prep that wood before laying up? Wiping down with acetone or wax and grease remover, sanding?

Have you done a penetration test for the resin to see if it's entering the wood?

The reason I ask this is that I recently read somewhere that they spray those sheets down with a wax and that's how they get the water beading finish.

 

[GT1000000]

This the stuff from Sherwin-Williams? Not the water based version...if yes, then NO, the stuff I have is solvent based...
If so, I actually I got a 2 gallon kit from my neighbor who happens to work at Rybovich Yachts and they use this stuff all the time in high dollar floaters...so if its good enough for them, then I suppose its good enough for me...
I did a small test patch in my bilge a few months ago and I am very impressed with how well it went on, how well just one heavy coat covered and the dried finish, while I can't say it is as thick as gel coat, it sure does feel like an armored coating...
The biggest things are to make sure you follow the directions and let it sit for about 30 minutes after mixing the two parts together, make sure it is fairly fresh and has never been opened because after its opened the 3 year shelf life no longer applies...and make sure the surface is either raw fiberglass that's been thoroughly wiped down with acetone or lacquer thinner, if not make sure you scuff the surface, then clean...
The guys who use it recommend two coats for a long lasting finish...if you can get the second coat on during the curing window, then you don't have to do anything other than maybe a solvent wipe to clean it up...if you wait longer than the cure window, you will have to scuff it up before applying the second coat...

 

[Axkiker]

Hey ax, I see you're using the Advantech osb. Are you doing anything to prep that wood before laying up? Wiping down with acetone or wax and grease remover, sanding?

Have you done a penetration test for the resin to see if it's entering the wood?

The reason I ask this is that I recently read somewhere that they spray those sheets down with a wax and that's how they get the water beading finish.

I did some tests before I started using it and didnt see any issues. What I did was to take a couple pieces and glue them together with PB or plain resin.. When I tried to separate the pieces they either broke in an area other than the seam or pulled pieces of each other apart. I also tried the same test with 1708. I applied a small patch then tried to remove it. Yes, I could pull it off by holding the wood down on the floor and pulling on the tab I left with vice grips. Even though I could pull it off it pulled up hunks of the wood with it. So to me it was a pretty darn good bond.

I tried the same tests with typical plywood I had laying around and couldnt see any real difference between bonds. I think I could argue the advantech was a little tougher but I have no real way to prove that.

I guess none of my tests are all that scientific. I however feel that the stuff it strong as heck after installing it and everything seems to have bonded well.

 

[Axkiker]

This the stuff from Sherwin-Williams? Not the water based version...if yes, then NO, the stuff I have is solvent based...
If so, I actually I got a 2 gallon kit from my neighbor who happens to work at Rybovich Yachts and they use this stuff all the time in high dollar floaters...so if its good enough for them, then I suppose its good enough for me...
I did a small test patch in my bilge a few months ago and I am very impressed with how well it went on, how well just one heavy coat covered and the dried finish, while I can't say it is as thick as gel coat, it sure does feel like an armored coating...
The biggest things are to make sure you follow the directions and let it sit for about 30 minutes after mixing the two parts together, make sure it is fairly fresh and has never been opened because after its opened the 3 year shelf life no longer applies...and make sure the surface is either raw fiberglass that's been thoroughly wiped down with acetone or lacquer thinner, if not make sure you scuff the surface, then clean...
The guys who use it recommend two coats for a long lasting finish...if you can get the second coat on during the curing window, then you don't have to do anything other than maybe a solvent wipe to clean it up...if you wait longer than the cure window, you will have to scuff it up before applying the second coat...

No, I was not planning on using the water based stuff. The stuff I was planning on using was Tile Clad HS.. . I did see where they had the water based version but didnt think that would be all that good of an idea.

Glad to hear that they are using the stuff with Yachts. After reading the tech sheets the only worry I had was with chalking. It seems this stuff is pretty UV stable but will chalk is exposed to the sun for extreme periods of time. I called SW and they said since this was the inside of a boat which is covered when not in use I would not have issue. They also confirmed that if by some chance I kept this boat for years and years and the coating did chalk it could just be buffed back to a shine. So I figure thats no different than using Gel coat.

I plan on picking some up tomorrow if possible.

Did you roll or brush it on. Any application hints??

Thanks

 

[GT1000000]

Did you roll or brush it on. Any application hints??

Since all I did was a small section of the bilge, I used a chip brush to slap it on...
They recommend using a brush to "cut in" along all the corners and edges to create a slight build before applying it to all of the flat areas...it seemed like a fairly "stiff" paint, meaning it didn't seem to sag even though I applied rather heavily including the vertical parts...
It self levels really well so the little section I did seemed to come out super smooth and glossy.
Let me know how it goes for you...

 

[jigngrub]

I did some tests before I started using it and didnt see any issues. What I did was to take a couple pieces and glue them together with PB or plain resin.. When I tried to separate the pieces they either broke in an area other than the seam or pulled pieces of each other apart. I also tried the same test with 1708. I applied a small patch then tried to remove it. Yes, I could pull it off by holding the wood down on the floor and pulling on the tab I left with vice grips. Even though I could pull it off it pulled up hunks of the wood with it. So to me it was a pretty darn good bond.

I tried the same tests with typical plywood I had laying around and couldnt see any real difference between bonds. I think I could argue the advantech was a little tougher but I have no real way to prove that.

I guess none of my tests are all that scientific. I however feel that the stuff it strong as heck after installing it and everything seems to have bonded well.

You should've documented that in your build thread here, I'm sure lots of folks would've found that both interesting and informative... I know I would've. Maybe you could show us if you have some scraps leftover?

 

[zool]

I looked into SW coatings for below deck areas, I spoke to the tech at SW Industrial about their seaguard epoxy x000, and was impressed by his opinion, tho he said it would work great for wet bilge areas, they wouldn't warrantee it on fiberglass...the deal breaker for me was they discontinued it in one gallon kits, and only offer 5 gsllon kit for $240 with my tax id.

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26509:product-6940

Ive read of ppl using tile clad in bilges with good results, but ended up using Behr garage epoxy SS, I step on it constantly while working other areas, its not coming up at all...couldn't beat the $30 a gallon and available down the road at HD .