1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[Axkiker]

You should've documented that in your build thread here, I'm sure lots of folks would've found that both interesting and informative... I know I would've. Maybe you could show us if you have some scraps leftover?

Yeah, I have bounced from project to project. Between bouncing around and switching from camera to camera phone to new service etc I havent done the best job of posting in this thread. I have a bunch of pics from different portions of the build I just need to post


It appears to be raining all weekend here in KY so I cant really do fiberglass work. So ill try to repeat the tests and maybe post pics...

 

[Axkiker]

I looked into SW coatings for below deck areas, I spoke to the tech at SW Industrial about their seaguard epoxy x000, and was impressed by his opinion, tho he said it would work great for wet bilge areas, they wouldn't warrantee it on fiberglass...the deal breaker for me was they discontinued it in one gallon kits, and only offer 5 gsllon kit for $240 with my tax id.

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26509:product-6940

Ive read of ppl using tile clad in bilges with good results, but ended up using Behr garage epoxy SS, I step on it constantly while working other areas, its not coming up at all...couldn't beat the $30 a gallon and available down the road at HD .

How has the garage epoxy held up for you. Im definitely not against using it just wanted to make sure I didn'y use something that wouldnt hold up.

 

[zool]

So far, so good. I have it applied under the fuel tank, and over the top ends of the tank enclosure, where I step regularly, even with sneakers rubbing over the hard edge, it hasn't moved or even faded. It goes on more like stain than paint, filing all the pores. Keep in mind, im using epoxy resin and cloth, not Poly, so its epoxy over epoxy, but epoxy adheres well to most surfaces. The only prep I did was remove any amine blush, then wax/grease remover.

 

[Axkiker]

Random pics from the build in no particular order

 

[52FordF2]

Hurry up, I'd like to be able to see it down at Carrie Cox"s boat ramp before winter sets in again. Do you feel it, the temperature just dropped a little. :laugh:

Wish I was that far along. Lookin good :joyous:

 

[Axkiker]

Quick question. .. I made the bulkhead which is closest to the bow of my boat in the ski locker section with a drain cutout. After thinking about this I wondered why I would need it. There are no drains or anything in the bow section of the boat which could leak into the front and need to drain back. So why would I want to allow an entry point for water to enter the front in the event the ski locker received some rain water etc. I have the rear ski locker bulkhead with a rain cutout so water can drain backwards into the bilge;... Just trying to figure why a front drain is needed.

I guess since the bow is made in a V that it would just drain back to the rear but im still wondering if its even needed.

Any thoughts.

 

[zool]

Water somehow finds a way, whether seeping thru a flexed rub rail seam, a leaking cleat or bow ring, or worse, a puncture from bowing into a submerged object. Its best to have anywhere water can get to, be able to drain to the pumps, imo.

 

[bigdirty]

Yup, i agree with Zool. I added cutouts and drains in several places when i did my Crownline. Far as i'm concerned water WILL get in, somehow, at some point.. best to give it a place to go to, instead of sitting and filling up a cavity... and rotting.. :lol: i know there is some 'construction code' or such that boats over a certain size must have 'separate compartments' and that is how mine was factory built, as was the ol dirty bayliner... and i see what happens... so i left a passage basically from bow to stern, for water to drain. And you know what? It works. I was stupid enough to leave the cabin hatch WIDE open 3 days ago, while cleaning up from the weekend excursion... and the last two days have been POURING rain.. :facepalm: Shes wet inside, but all the water found its way back to the bilge under the motor, and at the flick of a switch it was (mostly) all gone...

 

[Axkiker]

Good Call... ill leave it.

Out of curiosity big Dirty did you go back with foam under your floor?

 

[zool]

One thing you can consider, if the bulkhead is in the ski locker, you can add the hole, and plug it. Mine was built with a hole in the cabin wall bulkhead, its just a hole with one of those flip open compression plugs, and it did save my cabin substructure from any rot, it is accessible to open if needed, but I do have pumps on both sides of it.

Then you could just drain any standing water as a maintenance item....

 

[jigngrub]

Good Call... ill leave it.

Out of curiosity big Dirty did you go back with foam under your floor?

The foam option is a good one and will displace and seal off water from entering an area if properly installed. There's also the other benefits of additional hull/deck support and sound deadening. Foam is our friend.

 

[Axkiker]

Hey everyone... long time no post.. I had to take some time off just due to getting sick of working on it LOL. As of today the floor is in and im in the process of applying the final 2 layers of glass.


One question I have is regarding the tabbing of the floor. So far I have applied my fillets and ran a 12" wide piece of 1708 as tabbing around the premieter. My next plan was to then go with 2 layers of matt across the entire top. Do I need to apply another layer of 1708 around the edges or is 1 plus the matt enough.

Also, im trying to plan how I want to either reinstall my back hatch or possibly build new. My reason is that the back engine (hatch) to acces the engine is made in 3 sections. You basically lift up a section to either access the motor (center) or storage (left / right) My issues is that when it rains or if someone were to get in the boat from the rear after tubing the water would basically run between the seams of the back engine hatch / covers and set on top of the motor. To me this is a horrible design but im not sure how to go about fixing it.

Anyone been down this road ???

Thanks

 

[Rickmerrill]

Wood's "Decks, Stringers and Transoms" has 6" 1708 tabbing then two layers of CSM (with 3" overlap each layer). Since he may be the prince of overkill you will be fine with two more layers of CSM!

 

[DanQ598]

Sounds like awesome progress on a project. Looking forward to the finished result.

 

[Axkiker]

Well im back at it... Im finally laying the final layer of CSM on the sole. I have a quick question though. The CSM leaves a slightly hairy or textured finish. I plan on coating with an epoxy coating so I really need a smoother finish. It doesnt seem practical to sand the glass down smooth so what could I use to fare or smooth the floor before coating. Also what would be the best prepping method prior to applying the faring material. I assume I need to scuff it down to remove the shine but it seems pretty tough to get in all the nooks etc even with scotch bright pads.

I have mixed faring material with microbubbles to fill cracks before but the stuff just doesnt seem to make a material which would be suitable for spreading across the entire sole. I feel like I need something more like a self leveling kinda compound. Something I could trowel on and allow to settle out. Then go back and sand completely smooth.

Any ideas

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd just put down a final layer of 6oz fabric that will give a very smooth surface. Fairing material made with glass bubbles and thinned with acetone to the consistency or thick Catsup has always worked well for me on flat surfaces and sands extremely well. What Epoxy coating are you using?

 

[Axkiker]

I'd just put down a final layer of 6oz fabric that will give a very smooth surface. Fairing material made with glass bubbles and thinned with acetone to the consistency or thick Catsup has always worked well for me on flat surfaces and sands extremely well. What Epoxy coating are you using?

Im using Tile Clad by SW. I will do some testing but I just dont see the top layer of CSM leaving a finish smooth enough that the hair wont show through. Maybe im wrong as I havent tried after an initial sanding but it just seems that way based on what I have finished. Anyways ill do some testing in the near future. Regardless the CSM is going down pretty well. Shouldnt be too much longer and ill be finally finished with this monster.

 

[Axkiker]

Im about to start installing the front structure that the bow seats set on. What is recommended to tab these in with. Its not structural so is 1708 needed ???

 

[Axkiker]

Soooo what is everyone else using ????