1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[GT1000000]

It can usually get wet as soon as it sets, but it may show signs of blushing until it is fully cured...I have had it happen a couple of times and it doesn't seem to have any negative effects...

 

[Woodonglass]

Well it's not a time thing it's a sealing thing. Laminating Polyester resin needs a long time to fully cure and skin over and become fully waterproof unless...You have to block the air from getting to it some way usually by adding Wax to the last layer. Until is "Cured and Sealed" it's susceptible to water penetration and should not get wet.

 

[Axkiker]

So what kind of time frame are we talking... Its at least 75 degrees here every day. I assume 24 hrs is plenty???

 

[Axkiker]

Any mechanics out there? Since its raining here I decided to dive into a little motor work. I have the heads off and valve train removed. I didnt want to do any head work if not needed so I decided to measure the intake valve stem play.

So far I measured between .003 - .004 stem play measured with the valve slightly off the seat.

Does this sound typical or normal ??? I cant seem to find a spec out there

 

[Axkiker]

few pics from this weekends work

http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/Userkc14419/media/stringers1_zps3ce994ec.jpg.html

 

[Axkiker]

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh635/Userkc14419/stringers1_zps3ce994ec.jpg

 

[Axkiker]

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[Axkiker]

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[Axkiker]

Out of curiosity how many layers of glass does a typical factory made boat use when installing stringers. My boat was so crappy to begin with I dont feel its a good representation of a descent build.

Just curious as I am very surprised just how strong this stuff is when I have only used 1 layer of 1708 so far. Really feel like 1 layer would be fine but ill go ahead and add teh 2nd just for good measure. I see no way this thing will not be 2X stronger than factory.

 

[Woodonglass]

You could prolly get by with 1 layer of 1708 but...I'd really recommend using 2. The new Biaxial fabric is really strong stuff but there's no substitute for "Bulk" in some cases and Stringers, IMHO, is one of those cases. I'm NOT a Pro or a Nautical Engineer. It just seems that way to me so that's why I recommend it. I may be TOTALLY wrong!!!!

 

[Axkiker]

You could prolly get by with 1 layer of 1708 but...I'd really recommend using 2. The new Biaxial fabric is really strong stuff but there's no substitute for "Bulk" in some cases and Stringers, IMHO, is one of those cases. I'm NOT a Pro or a Nautical Engineer. It just seems that way to me so that's why I recommend it. I may be TOTALLY wrong!!!!

Yeah im with ya. With me being new to all this there is no sense skimping. A little over kill wont hurt anything. Im just curious if 1 would have sufficed. the stuff sure is pretty darn strong.

 

[Axkiker]

Hey all!!! Long time since ive posted on progress but im back. I have stringers in and am awaiting the gas tank and floor. I hope to install both this weekend.


I will then reinstall the motor and start the wiring. For those who have completly reqired a boat where did you get the wire. did you use different colors for each sensor etc or just label with stickers etc. Just looking for some hints.

Thanks

 

[Axkiker]

Another quick question.... Anyone know the specs on the engine alignment tool. I looked on ebay and I can get one for about 50.00 shipped but they dont appear to be very fancy. I could easily make one on my lathe if someone can give me the exact specs.

Any thoughts.

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Here ya go...

 

[bigdirty]

I did do a complete 're-wire' on a boat some time ago, but i sort of cheated... went to a wrecking yard and pulled out the entire wire harness from a similar boat, with the same era of merc motor/drive, from the controls/guages right back to the motor.. Took a bit of testing, wire by wire, but was fairly easy with the whole harness laying on the shop floor compared to being stuffed in the boat.. :lol:

 

[Axkiker]

Here ya go...

Perfect... thanks

 

[Axkiker]

Hey all... Ive been slowly working over the summer and am finally ready to reinstall the floor. Sorry I cant get the pics off my phone at the moment but ill try tonight. My question is how is everyone installing the CSM on the top of the floor. My boat is 22' long so there is no real way for me to install it all in one sheet. So my initial thoughts are to cut it into sections and overlap. If I overlap im going to end up with several large seams that I would prefer to avoid. Is everyone just overlapping then grinding down the high spots? I would think that this would weaken the top layer of CSM since by grinding down the high would essentially just leave 2 seperate layers butted up together. Or is everyone installing one section at a time and just butting them up together?

I plan to install snap in carpet so I can live with slight seams... I however would like to avoid or minimize if possible.


Lastly for a top coat my thoughts have gone from a truck bed liner to a gelcoat or alternative. It seems Gel will be much cheaper. Any other thoughts for a top coating? Especially something that could be sourced locally. Possibly some type of epoxy??

Any thoughts??

Thanks

 

[bigdirty]

What I would do (and did in a few areas) is overlap the first layer by 4-5", and then lay the 2nd 'up to' the overlap'd sections.. like sistering 3/4 ply to make 1.5" stringers..... Essentially the overlap on the first layer gives you a double thickness due to the overlap, and the second layer will (should) even out the height/thckness issue you are worried about.

 

[bigdirty]

sort of like this...

 

[Woodonglass]

The CSM is used basically as a binder for the Poly resin. It actually does not give much strength to the mix other than keeping the resin from becoming brittle and breaking apart. Butting the edges is fine to keep it from showing a "Bump". Then on the second layer make sure that the seams fall in different locations. If you want some strength in the mix, then you should finish off with a final layer of 6oz cloth.