1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Wood flour is not recommended due to the fact that polyester is a bit hygroscopic, meaning it can allow some water absorption, albeit very minute. Wood flour just adds to the problem. Thus you don't want to use it. Bondo uses talc as it's filler for its products and it's almost as bad as wood flour and that's why it's not used for water immersed products. Cabosil and glass bubbles will not absorb water and thus are good products for thickening polyester resin. Epoxy is far less hygroscopic and you CAN use wood flour with it.

Here's the specs on your transom...

great info!!!!!!

thanks

 

[Axkiker]

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Finally making some good progress. Now almost time to yank the transom.

 

[Axkiker]

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[Axkiker]

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[bigdirty]

New board messing with you too? :lol: 2 blank posts.. ruh roh.. whaaa happen?

 

[Axkiker]

New board messing with you too? :lol: 2 blank posts.. ruh roh.. whaaa happen?

Yup.. was trying to post pics on progress

 

[Axkiker]

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[Axkiker]

Okay... Well i still cant seem to post pics but regardless I need a little advice.

So I have made good progress finally!!! The hull is pretty much stripped of stringers and bulkheads. I pulled up any crappy tabbing I could with an air chisel and ground anything left down with the grinder. I'm curious as to what is acceptable prep prior to applying new stringers and 1708. Does everything need to be ground down to new glass / resin prior? Or would it be acceptable to wipe what I cant grind down with MEK or Acetone to soften the old resin. The reason I cant grind everything completely is because some of it is just too rough.. I would be months trying it get it smooth enough to catch every nook and cranny.

I also have been working on removing the transom and have found it to be a breeze as compared to the rest of this mess. It appears that my transom was installed prior to the cap being placed on top. So there is a slight bit of tabbing which was applied to the backside of the transom. When I say slight I mean like maybe 1 layer of 1.5 oz half way up the backside. Would it be okay to just PB in place and tab from the front using 1708? I guess thats really the only way I can considering the cap is not coming off.

Anyways, glad I did go through with pulling the transom as the lower portion was starting to rot. All in all the transom is coming out pretty darn easy. The wood seems to separate from the fiberglass pretty easy as long as you cut it into hunks. My new favorite tool is the air chisel. If you are pulling a transom I highly recommend you get one and sharpen the chisel for this process. It makes life soooo much easier.

 

[bigdirty]

Im having serious issues with the board right now as well... finally took my post, but was a fight... :lol: I keep getting an "invalid server response" error, then i got a message that i was 'not authorized to post' and had to close window and re-log in..... seams to be a few bugs with the new format/code/?

 

[Axkiker]

Im having serious issues with the board right now as well... finally took my post, but was a fight... :lol: I keep getting an "invalid server response" error, then i got a message that i was 'not authorized to post' and had to close window and re-log in..... seams to be a few bugs with the new format/code/?

Yeah, it seems like I have much better luck when I reply with a quote to a previous message LOL.... Im kinda curious if the bugs are website wide or only messing with the forums. My job revolves around coordinating software development, testing, and implementation. If this is system wide im guessing some poor IT guy is hating life. I know my company would have me by the jewels if this was the product of a release I ran.

 

[tpenfield]

Okay... Well i still cant seem to post pics but regardless I need a little advice. . .

I have found that I needed to use the "IMG" tagging around the picture URL's to get them to show up. . . . That is if you are putting in a link to a photo on the web. I have not tried the uploading method, since I rarely use that approach. Anyway, a few more pics would be good, now that you have everything out of the boat.

You want to grind in slightly to the fiberglass, just to 'open it up' and create a rough surface for the new tabbing (1708 cloth). Your situation might be slightly different as your prior pictures seem to indicate issues with the hull layup itself. So, that is where more pics would come in handy.

 

[Axkiker]

I have found that I needed to use the "IMG" tagging around the picture URL's to get them to show up. . . . That is if you are putting in a link to a photo on the web. I have not tried the uploading method, since I rarely use that approach. Anyway, a few more pics would be good, now that you have everything out of the boat. You want to grind in slightly to the fiberglass, just to 'open it up' and create a rough surface for the new tabbing (1708 cloth). Your situation might be slightly different as your prior pictures seem to indicate issues with the hull layup itself. So, that is where more pics would come in handy.

I didnt really have an issue with hull layup. The issue seems to be limited to the tabbing used in attaching the stringers. I was able to use and air chisel / demo bar combination to basically pry it all up then grind smooth. So hull wise I think im good. Ill try to get some pics up as soon as I can either create a photobucket account or the site allows me to upload.

My first thoughts regarding the grinding is to do exactly what you described. Roughen up the surface for the new glass / resin to bond with. I am having issues with that as there are areas (especially the sides) where the surface is pretty rough and the stiff grinding disk just wont get into all the crevices. It only wants to knock the high spots down.

just curious if others had ran across this and had thoughts.

 

[Woodonglass]

In most cases it's NOT necessary to remove the cap of the boat to replace the transom on an I/O boat. Since you're only doing the center pad, I believe you can successfully replace yours leaving the cap on.

 

[Axkiker]

In most cases it's NOT necessary to remove the cap of the boat to replace the transom on an I/O boat. Since you're only doing the center pad, I believe you can successfully replace yours leaving the cap on.

Ohhh no im doing the whole shabang... I figured while im there its all coming out.

 

[Woodonglass]

Get those pics posted. Even if you're doing the WINGS of the transom, you might still not have to De-Capitate your boat.

 

[Axkiker]

Get those pics posted. Even if you're doing the WINGS of the transom, you might still not have to De-Capitate your boat.

Ohhh I can guarantee the cap isnt coming off LOL. ill add extra 1708 or whatever in other places as it would just bee too much trouble and a major PITA to remove the cap.

 

[Axkiker]

Ohhh how I love 1708.....

That is all

 

[Axkiker]

Ohhh how I love 1708.....

That is all

 

[Woodonglass]

All newb's should buy a yard of 24 oz woven roving and attempt to wrap a 3/4" stringer or tab a transom with it. THEN they would REALLY gain an appreciation for the Biaxial Fabrics!!!!

 

[tpenfield]

All newb's should buy a yard of 24 oz woven roving and attempt to wrap a 3/4" stringer or tab a transom with it. THEN they would REALLY gain an appreciation for the Biaxial Fabrics!!!!

Yea, I got the remains of a roll of 24 oz. WR . . . the stuff unravels just by looking at it. Mostly used in hull layup where they want to build up thickness fast/