1990 Sea Nymph FM160B Restoration

[Frey0357]

You may want to consider vinyl deck covering instead of carpet, I removed all of the carpet in my boat and went with vinyl and couldn't be happier, and I'll never have carpet in a boat again!

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-repair/521750-97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift

Thanks Jig for the comment regarding vinyl. My main reason for not going with vinyl is that we often remove our shoes while in the boat, and the carpet is very friendly! It would seem to me that it would conseal more imperfections in any of the surfaces (I dont know this for sure, since I have never had vinyl covered surfaces). Carpet is not a final decision for me and I may switch to vinyl if it make sense for us, given our use of the boat.....I will check out the boats at Cabelas and/or Bass Pro next time I go, I know those are all done in vinyl now....

Thanks for the suggestion, I will check it out....

Frey

 

[Frey0357]

Good morning everyone, sadly not much getting done on the Sea Nymph, just too busy with Kids, Work, etc....

I do have a question tho!

When cutting my new transom board, should it be the complete width of the stern of the boat, or is it ok to be 1/2" short of the sides? Looking for opinions here....The original was short about 1/2" on each side and I was wondering if there are any strength gains to be had if I run it all the way to the sides, or just call it good when it is close.....

thanks everybody!

Frey

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I don't think there's much to gain by being full width compared to 1/2" gaps. My OCD tendencies would make me make the gaps equal though. :lol:

 

[64osby]

No scientific data to support my thoughts here.

I think placing wood to the edge might cause a hard spot or even a wear point. As the hull flexes, over time a hard spot could or would form a visible mark or crease on the exterior of the hull.

Leaving a 1/2" gap would eliminate that issue. My .02 or .05.

 

[Woodonglass]

In a Glass Boat you want some gaps to allow the PB to "Goosh" (That's a Nautical Term ) out around the edges and then you can form a nice coved fillet to make it easy to lay the glass around the edges. Since you don't have that issue on a "Tinner" I'd think you'd want it to fit pretty snug but have some some room for flex. I'd allow about 1/4" and call it good. 1/2" might be a bit much IMHO!! Again, I'm just an Old Dumb Okie AND never owned a TIN BOAT sooooo you might wanna listen to those that have!!!!:joyous:

 

[gm280]

I have to agree a 1/2" gap seems a bit large. :noidea: I would try to shoot for 1/4" or smaller or there about. And I don't know if I would not fill that gap with some type silicone to keep objects (hooks, bait, paper, etc) from getting down pass that gap. But that is my totally uneducated guess as well because it has been such a long time since I've own a tinner myself. JMHO!

 

[Frey0357]

In a Glass Boat you want some gaps to allow the PB to "Goosh" (That's a Nautical Term ) out around the edges and then you can form a nice coved fillet to make it easy to lay the glass around the edges. Since you don't have that issue on a "Tinner" I'd think you'd want it to fit pretty snug but have some some room for flex. I'd allow about 1/4" and call it good. 1/2" might be a bit much IMHO!! Again, I'm just an Old Dumb Okie AND never owned a TIN BOAT sooooo you might wanna listen to those that have!!!!:joyous:

Thanks Wood! I do plan to make the new replacement much closer, just wanted to get some opinions of how close is good, perfet, or way off. It is my plan to get the repalcement transom within a 1/4" on each side if not closer.....Although I have heard of others that have chosen to "pound" their new transom into place, I dont want to be one of those...no offense to anyone that has done this.....:faint2:

Thanks for the comments!

Frey

 

[Frey0357]

I have to agree a 1/2" gap seems a bit large. :noidea: I would try to shoot for 1/4" or smaller or there about. And I don't know if I would not fill that gap with some type silicone to keep objects (hooks, bait, paper, etc) from getting down pass that gap. But that is my totally uneducated guess as well because it has been such a long time since I've own a tinner myself. JMHO!

Thanks GM! As I mentioned to WoodonGlass, I only want to do this once, but I want to do it right!

thanks for the comments!

Frey

 

[bonz_d]

Of the ones I have done in the past there is no set spacing that I have found. On the Sea Nymph that I am working on there is a gap of about 1/2" on each side at the top and as it moves down the gap decreases to less than 1/4". The original was cut square at the corners at the bottom and when I redid mine I rounded those corners for a little more clearance and to keep the wood off of the rivets.

I believe that a lot of it all depends on how far out the fasteners go that attach the board to the hull. Another thought and observation, most transoms are roughly 1.5" thick. The one in my Nymph is only 1.25". Why they built it this way I have no idea.

Enjoying the read and work!

 

[Frey0357]

Of the ones I have done in the past there is no set spacing that I have found. On the Sea Nymph that I am working on there is a gap of about 1/2" on each side at the top and as it moves down the gap decreases to less than 1/4". The original was cut square at the corners at the bottom and when I redid mine I rounded those corners for a little more clearance and to keep the wood off of the rivets.

I believe that a lot of it all depends on how far out the fasteners go that attach the board to the hull. Another thought and observation, most transoms are roughly 1.5" thick. The one in my Nymph is only 1.25". Why they built it this way I have no idea.

Enjoying the read and work!

Thanks Bonz, this was just the final confirmation that I needed! I plan to make a cardboard cutout and fit it just right, I would be happy with 1/4" on the sides and full top to bottom on the height. As for the thickness, mine is a full 1.5" so I will simply duplicate this, and I might keep the 3/8" aluminum stock on the front, just for added strength and stability. I dont think I really will need it, but when putting it back together.....I just might put it back on!

I just got my Coat-It today, so I will be sealing the rivets this week and then plan to get to the beginning part of the "foam project". Finally, my time will open up again and I can get back to this important project! :lol:

thanks for your input! Ive been watching out for your postings too! Keep up the good work!

Frey

 

[bonz_d]

In reply to the question you asked in another thread, no not much has gotten done. Weather and some other issues have been keeping me sidelined a bit lately. How about you? Any progress?

Been trying to get some help moving the Alumacraft out of the garage and covered up So I can move the Nymph into the garage so I can get it finished up. I did get the odd parts and helm painted and now know just where I'm going to remount it. Also going to raise it up a couple inches and try to add a storage compartment and a fuse block for the electrical.

 

[Frey0357]

In reply to the question you asked in another thread, no not much has gotten done. Weather and some other issues have been keeping me sidelined a bit lately. How about you? Any progress?

Been trying to get some help moving the Alumacraft out of the garage and covered up So I can move the Nymph into the garage so I can get it finished up. I did get the odd parts and helm painted and now know just where I'm going to remount it. Also going to raise it up a couple inches and try to add a storage compartment and a fuse block for the electrical.

Sadly, I started out like a firecracker that has fizzled out, before the bang! Now that my kids school and sports activities are slowing down, I should have more time. I havent dont much, in fact not enough to even speak of. I did get some additional parts cleaned and prepped for paint, etc... but that is it.

Next for me is to seal the internal seams and rivets, and then move to installing the foam that I purchased. I got the pink sheet stuff from the local box store and plan to cut and fit it nicely. After that its onto cutting the new flooring and sealing/installing.

Thanks for writing again! Talk to you soon!

Frey

 

[Frey0357]

Hello again, finally made some progress on my project!

So while shopping in one of the big box stores I scored with the purchase of my transome material! The clearance rack had this beauty ready to go with very few issues, none that will get incorporated in my build! $10.00.....SCORE!!

So I got her cut to size and got her glued up! Good squeeze out on the glue! Titebond 3, the exterior/marine stuff...

Then I placed clamps and some weight on, and now waiting for final cure!

Next step is to cut to fit and measure/drill holes to match what is needed on the transom!

Feels good to get something done here!!!

Frey

 

[jbcurt00]

What kind of plywood is that, its got a very thin veneer layer on the outside face of at least 1 side?

Exterior plywood doesnt typically have that sort of veneer, not even DouglasFir exterior plywood.

 

[Frey0357]

What kind of plywood is that, its got a very thin veneer layer on the outside face of at least 1 side?

Exterior plywood doesnt typically have that sort of veneer, not even DouglasFir exterior plywood.

Sorry JB Curt, it took me so long to get back! Been busy with hunting and stuff....

The wood is Birch 13 ply and has a thin UV protectant cover on it. Info can be found here: http://www.menards.com/main/store/2..._ShelterForestInt/Prod_Tech_Spec/125-1700.pdf

I scuffed the wood real well prior to applying glue. I plan to cover the entire thing with Epoxy or Spar Urethane (likely epoxy) to give it extra strength and prevent any water seepage.

I have already cut and fit the new transom in place, i will provide pics as soon as I take them (of course the new transom is simply sitting in place).

Thanks,
Frey

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I had the same thoughts as JB when I saw the pic that it's not an exterior ply, since I'm bored and easily distracted I got off on a tangent.

C&P from here

1. Urea Formaldehyde (UF), is thermosetting resin made from urea and formaldehyde. UF glue is Moisture Resistant (MR) grade. UF adhesive is used for all man-made panels.
2. Phenol Formaldehyde (PF) or Phenol Resorcinol Formaldehyde (PRF), is thermosetting resin made from phenols and formaldehyde. PF glue is Weather and Boil Proof (WBP) grade. PF glue is used for man-made panels which should have better moisture/water proof property, such as marine plywood, exterior plywood, OSB/3, LVL …


Not trying to start a another plywood war just trying to grasp if it's really a good plywood to use.

While that ply'specs show moisture resistant it's the UF glue. Arauco ply lists the PF glue. I fear that ply falls into the interior class of ply.

Hopefully the greater plywood minds will stop by and educate the class.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Just wandered into the actual plywood thread and see the same answer I was eluding to there.

 

[Frey0357]

Hello everyone! I want to replace all of the old beat up bolts/nuts in my transom as I begin to replace the wooden core. Any suggestions here with this? Several folks have mentioned stainless steel bolts and nuts, but wanted to ask some of you that have done this before....Any thougths?:faint2:

thanks in advance all!

Happy Holidays to all!

Frey

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

+1 from me for stainless

 

[jbcurt00]

+1 from me for stainless

Yep