1990 Sea Nymph FM160B Restoration

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
SS and some 5200 coating them on the pass through to seal the deal and keep corrosion at bay.
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hello again everyone, I am getting back to my boat project. Sorry for taking time off, but it was needed....

I am preparing my new transom wood and wanted to ask some opinions on how large to drill all of the holes... Sounds kinda like a dumb question, but I know the transom sits at a 12 degree angle and drilling holes straight thru will not allow the holes to line up perfectly. So am I over thinking this or do I have to consider a larger hole for the replacement bolts because they will be at a angle?

Any thoughts here? Does any of this make sense? Lol

Frey
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Nope, holes thru the plywood are done at 90deg to the transom skin and the face of the plywood. The plywood is at the same angle as the transom.

EDIT: Doh... sorry, I knew what.I meant, that wasnt what showed up in my post.....
 
Last edited:

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Fit the transom wood, mark holes, remove transom and drill the holes 90 degree through.
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Thanks Watermann and jbcurt! Just to be certain, because I don't want to do this again....

I have cut fitted (sanded/filed, etc...) the transom board to fit very well in the transom envelope. I state envelope because there is an outer skin (the part that has an exterior that comes into contact with water), and an interior skin (which faces the inside of the boat). As I mentioned I have the transom board fully fitted to the transom and have marked the holes both inside and outside. The inside and outside do not match up exactly, so if I drill a hole that is 90 degrees to the transom board it will not line up properly with one skin or another. I may not be explaining this well??:faint2:

thoughts?

I will likely just go for it, as you mentioned and deal with any fittment issues that arise when I install the new bolt hardware...

thanks again!

Frey
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,276
Frey I understand what you are saying as I had this with my Sea Nymph. What it appears they did was assemble everything and then drilled and fastened it all together. None of the holes were at a 90deg. angle so no the holes did not line up.

What I did was get it all back in place and then redrilled everything from the outside at as close to 90deg as possible. Many of the inside holes did not match. Some were only off by a 1/4 hole. I just added a small fender washer to those.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Frey I understand what you are saying as I had this with my Sea Nymph. What it appears they did was assemble everything and then drilled and fastened it all together. None of the holes were at a 90deg. angle so no the holes did not line up.

What I did was get it all back in place and then redrilled everything from the outside at as close to 90deg as possible. Many of the inside holes did not match. Some were only off by a 1/4 hole. I just added a small fender washer to those.

Perfect plan ^^^
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
My SN was the same way when it came to the row of bolts that go through for the lower bracket and knee brace, they were all the 1/4" bolts so it wasn't a big deal to just fudge the holes in the wood with the bit once the wood was in. Since the holes were messy I pulled the wood back out and I then had room for some spar and of course 5200 to seal it all up. Nothings perfect on these old boats so you just have to adapt and overcome the issues best you can.
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Bonz/Jbcurt/Watermann,
Thanks guys you answered the question that I had!

I'm going to drill the holes seal em up and move on to the rest of the project!

Frey
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hello all, glad to say that while it was very slow progress, I have been able to seal my new transom! :eek:

IMG_1673_zpsyl1c3prn.jpg

IMG_1674_zpscj8fduh6.jpg


Thanks WOG for the special recipe!

In the photo you can see I got a little over zealous with the final coat of spar, had some runs there, but doesn't matter because it wont be seen! Hopefully this weekend I will get to installing the new transom. Progress!

thanks,
Frey
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Progress continues...... Internal aluminum skin:
IMG_1886_zps2zdsiest.jpg


Now cleaned up, primed, and painted...
IMG_1678_zpsavsawpa2.jpg


If you are considering JB Weld for patching holes that have developed over the years....the stuff works well, is sandable, and is paintable!

I did get the transom dry fitted...all holes/stainless bolts/washers/and lock nuts lined up! Shocking, because no matter how much planning I do there always seems to be some sort of 'fudge factor' needed on this project! :roll:

Thanks all!

Frey
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Now THAT is a NICE job on a Transom seal job!!! I'll be referencing this in the future for those wanting to know how to do a "Tinner Transom" For this kind of work, You get one of these...
goodenuf.jpg
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Happy Tuesday everybody!

I got a little more accomplished over the weekend....the pics are not awesome, but I think you can still follow along.

Got the new transom installed and sealed! Previously the transom looked like this (Sorry it's upside down!):
IMG_1844_zps5yqxhuyv.jpg


to now this:
IMG_1692_zpsqpz71vuz.jpg


All sealed up with 3M 4200, got good "squeeze-out" with all new stainless steel fasteners too!
IMG_1688_zpsasxtsus7.jpg


I applied a single thin coat of aluminum primer over the bare metal prior to installing the transom, this is why it looks a little funny. I will fix all of that later, just wanted something on there after cleaning everything up!

***I have not finished up the transom install just yet with only the transom cap to install. The question is....should I glue (more 3M 4200) on the transom cap with sealer and fasteners or skip the sealer and just place the transom cap back on without? Thoughts/Opinions please....

Moving onto sub flooring foam now.....this part is tedious!

thanks all for your support!

Frey
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
IMHO the edges of the transom are the most susceptible to water penetration. I'd coat the top edge with a thin coat of 4200 and then cap it. Just an Old Dumb Okie's opinion.
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
WOG~ Thanks for your input....no dumb Okie there, I know aluminum boats aren't your thing, but your help and guidance is great! So are you saying you would recommend a thin coat on the entire width of the transom or just the corners of the cap? I agree with this being susceptible to water penetration, so I want to do this right!

Frey
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Here's my thinking. The entire top edge of the transom is an exposed Plywood edge. I KNOW you did a GREAT job of saturating it with the OT recipe but, Once you cap it condensation can and will occur under that cap as well as water will get under there. That cap will probably move around too and abrasion will occur. I'm overly cautious about plywood edges soooo, If it were me, I'd coat that entire top edge with a thin to medium coat of 4200 and let it cure. I'd then bed the aluminum cap in 4200 when I placed it on the transom top to hold it in place. Of course any fasteners you use you'll need to predrill and coat them with sealant as well. As you say, I'm NOT a Tinner, Never have been, but if and when I do become one, That's how I will do my transom.;) For any future NEWB's EEEEEEpoxy IS the best and most costly method for coating and sealing the wood on your transom. The method Frey0357 has used on his, IMHO, is the next best method for sealing a wood transom and a lot less costly. With good maintenance and care it should last several decades.:nod:
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Here's my thinking. The entire top edge of the transom is an exposed Plywood edge. I KNOW you did a GREAT job of saturating it with the OT recipe but, Once you cap it condensation can and will occur under that cap as well as water will get under there. That cap will probably move around too and abrasion will occur. I'm overly cautious about plywood edges soooo, If it were me, I'd coat that entire top edge with a thin to medium coat of 4200 and let it cure. I'd then bed the aluminum cap in 4200 when I placed it on the transom top to hold it in place. Of course any fasteners you use you'll need to predrill and coat them with sealant as well. As you say, I'm NOT a Tinner, Never have been, but if and when I do become one, That's how I will do my transom.;) For any future NEWB's EEEEEEpoxy IS the best and most costly method for coating and sealing the wood on your transom. The method Frey0357 has used on his, IMHO, is the next best method for sealing a wood transom and a lot less costly. With good maintenance and care it should last several decades.:nod:

Thanks WOG! I like that you don't completely rule out the option of owning a "tinny"!

Epoxy is THE best method for sealing wood, I completely agree, but your method is great! The cost for me was about $35-40.00 and that included the wooden throw away brushes! Dollar for dollar, there is no beating the WOG secret recipe! Just sayin'!!!:D

As for my transom cap, I will plan to place a generous amount of 4200 on top and onto the cap itself, this thing is going to last another 40 years, well at least a long time!:lol:

~Frey
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
I hate using 5200(4200) so as an easier/cleaner option using perhaps less product I'd run a bead of sealant down the middle of the wood to bed the cap in. Seal the fastener holes, then once that is all set up caulk the seams all the way around the cap.

Should accomplish the same thing with less chance to goop yourself up.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
It is messy stuff but if you tape off the edges and use latex gloves it can be done pretty "Clean and Tidy"
 
Top