1988 Starcraft Mariner MR 220 V rebuild

[dizzyspots]

Looks like they were repairing corroded section of hull under the original fuel tank...functional repair but ugly...and with steel components used...not a forever job I'm thinking

 

[SHSU]

Just mix vinegar with ketchup...let it soak for how long...

Can't mix to much with ketchup as it will water it down to much and it will run off. As for the soak, it depends on how bad the corrosion is. I used it on my trailer and left it on for 48 hours. Did an ok job for areas I couldn't get with a wire wheel.

SHSU

 

[dizzyspots]

Can't mix to much with ketchup as it will water it down to much and it will run off. As for the soak, it depends on how bad the corrosion is. I used it on my trailer and left it on for 48 hours. Did an ok job for areas I couldn't get with a

 

[dizzyspots]

Thank you...I'll let ya know...final pressure wash tomorrow...then I get to learn solid rivets..reskinning the outer transom and opening the bottom transom seam so we can fold over and insert the new skin between the hull bottom and old transom skin...lots of rivets!!! Plus epoxy coating between the skins...stay tuned!!

 

[dizzyspots]

Can't mix to much with ketchup as it will water it down to much and it will run off. As for the soak, it depends on how bad the corrosion is. I used it on my trailer and left it on for 48 hours. Did an ok job for areas I couldn't get with a wire wheel.

SHSU

Well its gonna get a longer ketchup soak than we planned. The track has a big event this weekend, so I cant get access till Monday at the earliest..so 144 hr soak!! Hah!

 

[dizzyspots]

You might want to form a new transom cover that has a lip or flange that can be attached to the bottom of the hull. Maybe an inside and outside piece. The inside could have the flange to attach to the hull the outside would provide support with a clean look, but not cause a drag in the water.

Thinking about de-riveting the bottom edge of the transom where it meets the hull...building the .050 transom cover panel with a flange at the bottom, sliding that flange between the hull and the existing transom skin...epoxy between the entire two sheets, including the flange and another interior strip of .050 along the interior "ledge" solid rivet the whole thing together using the original rivet pattern...thoughts??

 

[64osby]

Thinking about it more.
Making a new skin with a flange would be great, but making it fit good would be very hard IMO. You would need to make a template or form to get the curves and angle just right. Then you have to fight with 100+ rivets through 5 layers.

Maybe make a new outer skin w/o a flange, skim it with 5200 and attach. Then make an oversized (3"x3" or larger) angle that would fit inside. The angle could be pieced in so you are not fighting the curves as much. Slather with 5200 or epoxy and add new rivets.

 

[dizzyspots]

Trying visualize the lower edge of that 3x4 angle that will be sitting on top of all those rivets...are you saying after adding fresh skin to the old transom as described...drill out all the old rivets and attach the 3x3 angle by resetting all those rivets and adding new lines of rivets thru the new skin to the angle...note: I do have access to an aircraft level sheet metal guy and a finger break ...

 

[Watermann]

The entire replacement of the skin I've seen has only involved leaving the existing rivets and cutting around the edge leaving good material to fasten the new AL in it's place. Desperate times call for desperate measures. Most would give up while others persevere and become fixtures here at the forums helping others to overcome the corrosion monster that looms over our old boats.

 

[64osby]

Trying visualize the lower edge of that 3x4 angle that will be sitting on top of all those rivets...are you saying after adding fresh skin to the old transom as described...drill out all the old rivets and attach the 3x3 angle by resetting all those rivets and adding new lines of rivets thru the new skin to the angle...note: I do have access to an aircraft level sheet metal guy and a finger break ...

I was thinking to just overlay the existing and move out the next row of rivets. You could form something like this for the bottom part of the angle.

-------i________ that would fit over the existing rivets.

 

[MNhunter1]

Do you know a good tig welder? I’d definitely be adding another skin to the transom, but think I’d bite the bullet and have that seam welded with a little reinforcement. Maybe weld on some pods while your at it. Should offset any additional weight of a 4 stroke if you ever go that direction as well. Not the bottom feeder DIY we’d typically discuss here, but that damage needs a somewhat unconventional fix.

 

[dizzyspots]

Do you know a good tig welder? I’d definitely be adding another skin to the transom, but think I’d bite the bullet and have that seam welded with a little reinforcement. Maybe weld on some pods while your at it. Should offset any additional weight of a 4 stroke if you ever go that direction as well. Not the bottom feeder DIY we’d typically discuss here, but that damage needs a somewhat unconventional fix.

I do have a friend that is an expert fabricator...aircraft and racecars. .he's only seen these pictures... it is excited about the idea..he get eye calls on it next week...stay tuned!!

 

[dizzyspots]

If I understand correctly, the transom thickness is 0.100" ? All the transom drain kits show specs for 0.090" max...mine is intact, but almost pulled it in expectation of the reskinning of the transom...adding .050 on top of existing .100"? Should I just cut around the existing drain? And a silly followup...my last boat had a Garboard brass drain...on a Mariner.. are u installing the rubber plug from the bilge side or outside...screw down or lever action? Thanks...headed out to do some more scrub and pressure wash...

 

[The John]

my last boat had a Garboard brass drain...on a Mariner.. are u installing the rubber plug from the bilge side or outside...screw down or lever action? Thanks...headed out to do some more scrub and pressure wash...

I would look for a stainless one, I know sea dog (I think is the name but may be wrong) has some stainless ones. I intend to use a stainless steel one on my Mariner after I add a new drain at the bottom and behind the transom support.

 

[dizzyspots]

Hull cleaned and ready for repairs...Marine Tex...white or grey? I see a price difference and specs are different. For the bond between riveted and/or bolted panels vs the areas for interior "skim coats" over cleaned pitting, which is preferred?? Cheers Mike

 

[MNhunter1]

Hull cleaned and ready for repairs...Marine Tex...white or grey? I see a price difference and specs are different. For the bond between riveted and/or bolted panels vs the areas for interior "skim coats" over cleaned pitting, which is preferred?? Cheers Mike

I've only used the grey, never the white. I've always associated the white with glassers and the grey with tin boats Personally, I'd stick with the grey.

 

[mattsteg]

Hull cleaned and ready for repairs...Marine Tex...white or grey? I see a price difference and specs are different. For the bond between riveted and/or bolted panels vs the areas for interior "skim coats" over cleaned pitting, which is preferred?? Cheers Mike

They're both suitable.

 

[dizzyspots]

Final cleanup done...prepping transom skin and hull for reskinning and patch panels...rivets ordered from rivetsonline.com aluminum sheet locally... any thoughts on the Pettit brand of epoxy...easier 1:1 mix ratio...gets good reviews...?? Called EZ-TEX

 

[dizzyspots]

Transom wood is installed...transom skin..reskinned and all corrosion take care of with 5200 and PC11...Hull patch panels and riveting begins tomorrow...BONUS: The boat is home...Ram crew cab dually and 22+ft boat makes it tough get it in the backyard...front mount hitch on the Ram for the WIN!!...no more 90 min round trips to the storage area!!!..sorry no pics today...

 

[boatflipperz]

Dizzy.. question for you.
Am I seeing your pics correctly? Did you have to remove your entire motor splash pan to insert the new plywood? My transom has a cap accross the top that looks like it's all one piece like molded/welded/connected to the splash well. I have the same boat as you I believe.