1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

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Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Copy that! I have another question that some might not want to answer or give advice on! Here in S.E.Mich the temps have started to fall to <60 degrees. Yesterday I tried to lay up a layer of CSM @ 60 degrees on the back side of one of my floor panels. It took for ever for it to set up and I used slightly more hardener than the perscribed cc's .My question is this, if my pole barn is well ventilated would it hurt to run my salamander heater to bring the temps up in it??? or are the resin vapors just too flammable?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

I think you'll be fine with good ventilation. They are not as flammable and explosive as you might think. It takes a LOT of build up to make em so!!!! I used to think that but research and others in the know have led me to believe otherwise. It's still your decision and I'm NOT an expert on the subject so take it for what it's worth. I do know you can "Tent' the area you're glassin' and then put a couple of heat lamps under the tent and that'll do the trick nicely.!
 
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Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Thanks WOG! I think Ill start with the big door open and close it as the temp starts to rise, that way I know most of the gases will be burnt off or evaporated first! I have a fire extinguisher handy anyways! I can see the headlines now!!! " Local Firefighter's pole barn explodes due to flammable vapors" Dugh!
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

I Seriously doubt that will happen!!!!
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

I should have the other 3 pieces of the floor glassed on the bottom tomorrow and ready to install by Thurs. Tabbed in and ready for foam!
Expanding Foam - 2 LB Density – 80lb kit (40 cubic ft coverage) $259.00 + $68.24 shipping=$327.24 then on to glassing the floor and carpet!
 
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Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Pics prior to the floor being installed, firing strips installed and everything is ready to go!
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Looking GOOD!!!! Won't be long Now!!!!! "Git Er Dun!!!!!!!"
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

This weekend I'm gonna knock it out! atleast get her to where she's ready for foam!
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Question! after the floor is installed and tabbed in and the foam is installed and first layer of CSM is layed up on the deck and sanded with 80 grit, you said use waxed resin for the final coat? I remember you guys saying that the Home Depot 3m brand of resin is waxed? am I correct? and will this work? that way I can buy just the right amount and not have to over judge!
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

The floor is all glued, screwed and tabbed too! on to the fun flotation foam!
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

OK! I'm looking for the 2 part pourable floatation foam expert here on IBOATS! Can someone give me an idea of hole layout so I'm not cutting too many holes or not enough as to blow my deck off.. Don't laugh at my pic but the blue lines are bulk heads and there's no foam in the red outlined area, and the black lines are where the floor will meet the hull! Thanks...Lee
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

First, calculate your cubic feet and mix just enuf to fill the cavity. Then drill a pour hole and a vent hole in each section. Like this...

foamholes.jpg


As long as you don't have WAY to much foam mixed you'll be fine.
 

saginawbayboater

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

OK! I'm looking for the 2 part pourable floatation foam expert here on IBOATS! Can someone give me an idea of hole layout so I'm not cutting too many holes or not enough as to blow my deck off.. Don't laugh at my pic but the blue lines are bulk heads and there's no foam in the red outlined area, and the black lines are where the floor will meet the hull! Thanks...Lee

lwardn i put a 2" hole every foot and that seemed to work good!

 
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Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

First, calculate your cubic feet and mix just enuf to fill the cavity. Then drill a pour hole and a vent hole in each section. Like this...

foamholes.jpg


As long as you don't have WAY to much foam mixed you'll be fine.

So down each outside edge if I drill a hole every 2' I should be ok? I forgot to mention that there is a small (3"x2") opening under each of the bulk heads.
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

How crucial is the temp when pouring 2 part foam? if its like 65-70 degrees rather than the suggested optimum 75-80 degrees? I dont wanna run short on foam is all, its way to expensive to not get your money's worth! And when I pour I start in the back of the boat and work forward? Bow up?
 

ben2go

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

How crucial is the temp when pouring 2 part foam? if its like 65-70 degrees rather than the suggested optimum 75-80 degrees? I dont wanna run short on foam is all, its way to expensive to not get your money's worth! And when I pour I start in the back of the boat and work forward? Bow up?

It will be slower to expand and will not fully expand.You can face a space heater at the bottom of the boat but be sure to monitor the temp of the compartment you're going to fill.
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

If Im using waxed resin for my last 2 layers of CSM can I lay it up wet on wet? or wet on tacky? This way I can buy 4 gals at home depot and not have to mail order any. Then scuff the final coat after its dried before laying my carpet! Please advise!
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Yep, wet on wet or tacky any your good to go, just don't let it come to a full cure before the next layer goes down. If it does, sand with 60 grit and wipe with acetone and you'll be fine.
 

Lwarden

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Re: 1987 Sea Sprite 225 SSB transom re build.

Yep, wet on wet or tacky any your good to go, just don't let it come to a full cure before the next layer goes down. If it does, sand with 60 grit and wipe with acetone and you'll be fine.

Thanks WOG! we're getting close now buddy!
 
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