1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

One thing I found out after tearing the floor up...my original plan was to put all 3 batteries in the floor right between the consoles. I now know that there isn't enough clearance between the floor and the deck to do this. However, I do believe there is room at the very front of the bow for 3 batteries. I really want to reduce the amount of weight in the back of the boat and moving 3x 70 pound batteries to the front would help. Plus I'll be building a casting deck in the back, so anything to offset the added weight would help.

So the question is, do you guys think there is any issue with having the starting battery in the bow? It's a 17.5 foot boat and I've heard that there might be a problem with having that much cable between the motor and the battery. Is there any truth to this?
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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23,767
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

The only drawback, is the expense of the that length of the proper gauge wire. Ask jas about that!
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2012
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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Despite how lovely the pour in foam looks, I think I'm leaning toward the noodles. Any idea how many I would need?
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

The only drawback, is the expense of the that length of the proper gauge wire. Ask jas about that!

So what is the proper gauge wire? I could always reuse the Romex :D
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Yup, like EZ said, $$. But if you are Mr. Money bags, no problem!

What gauge wire is very specific to your setup. And even then, (I have found at least) you'll not get an exact answer, even from the pros in the biz. The best I could get was a "range".
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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23,767
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

I fit 72 noodles into my 18' but yours is probably deeper than mine and I did leave room for my rod locker. I bought mine in the off-season so I did not get a good price on them AT ALL. You can probably do better with summer approaching. I've heard some people have be able to order them from Dollar Tree's web site in quantity. I ordered 3 cases of 24 and probably paid close to $2.50 a piece for the darn things. You should be able to get them for closer to $1 in-season.
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
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13,269
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Yup, Dollar Tree will be getting shipments in right now.

When I bought mine they were a buck each - I grabbed like 3 cases full and hit the road. Once they are gone they are gone for the year.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

First off, nice boat...gonna be sweet when finished...

The steering wheel comes off one of a couple ways...
Check and make sure there is not a snap ring under the nut you removed...then you have two options for removal...
1- rent a steering wheel puller at your favorite local auto parts store...OR...
2- you need to be flexible or have a fairly strong assistant to help, but here goes...this is the way I have removed pressed on steering wheels for the better part of 35 years...so take it for what it's worth...
Since you already removed the supporting structure from the dash...this is where you need the assistant or to be flexible...
Place your feet [solo method] on either side of the dash...grasp the steering wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock...now forcibly, but gently, begin pushing foreward and backward, side to side the wheel...in other words...pull with the left hand, while pushing with the right and vice versa...keep doing this back and forth, while gradually increasing the pressure and after a few it should pop right off...I am not sure if this is explained clearly enough or not, but if you have any questions, holler...

As far as wiring the batteries up front, the cost can climb pretty quickly...most run 1 or 2 AWG wire and at 3-5 per foot, times approximately 35 feet [2 each, 17.5 foot;1-black,1-red] can equal 90 to over a hundred bucks, just for the cable...not counting any other connectors, etc...

If you want, you can check out the link below for info on wire gauges...

Long and somewhat confusing for those of us that are NOT electrical engineers, but it should help you figure out how large a diameter of wire you would need...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge


Best Regards,
GT1M
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

GT
Sounds like I'm going to need a debt ceiling increase :facepalm:

I found this website to help figure out the gauge.
http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/includes/languages/english/wire_gauge_chart.html

I'm thinking I'll need 1 AWG. $100 now is worth having the weight distributed up front as well as all my batteries in one location.

Thanks for the heads up on the steering wheel. I'm sure I would have been pounding on that thing for hours!

EZ
I found Ace hardware online had noodles for $1.13 and they ship in bulk. I'll check with the Dollar Tree and other local places, maybe I can use my mad negotiating skills and get them for under a buck. The Tyee looks deep but there really isn't much depth below the floor. So I think between 72 and 90 should do it. I think that's the route I'll take.
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

A little time spent on the boat today. Dang near 70 degrees in Minnesota on March 14th. Amazing.

I got some foam removed from the stringers by the gas tank.
101_2035.jpg


My big pile of foam. Amazing how much of that stuff is in those stringers. There was quite a bit of foam that had water in it, although it wasn't soaked all the way through. Probably about 1/2" in the bottom and sides of the foam had water. I'm sure she'll fly now that all that wet foam is out!
101_2032.jpg


There is one patch in the hull. My dad said the post on the seat broke through and wore a hole in the hull. He patched it up years ago. Amazingly, the foam that was around the patch was completely dry!

Next steps, remove those panels below the splash well and get the foam out. Then remove the sheet metal on the gunwales and remove the foam.

My super awesome cousin (I hope he reads this) is coming over this weekend to help out. I want to polish up the hull and get it prepped for some Gluvit Luvin. Hope to check for leaks before then. So far the rivets look good. I think we'll start working on creating outlines for the deck. The fun stuff is right around the corner!
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Tell ya what, Lund did a real nice job giving you structure in that hull, good stuff right there:)
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Nice progress. Still headed uphill but you'll crest it soon.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt


Now that right there is a Party!!!

Those fiberglass guys are a bunch of suckers, no itching or twitching and no gas mask either. I love the tin boats!!!

Keep up the good work and you'll be on the water in no time.
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Ah, the peak is in sight!
Tonight I'll remove the big hunks of foam and start working on what's under the splash well, assuming I get off of work at a decent time.

EZ,
How did you get the hull so sparkling clean?
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Also, how much epoxy do you think I'll need to cover both sides of the plywood?
One thing to note, I'll be covering it with Cabelas Tuff Coat. The Tuff Coat primer is an epoxy resin, so I'm assuming I can just use this instead of the 635 Thin epoxy resin from US Composites as it will serve the same purpose. It's sold in quarts so at 26.99 it can get a bit pricey.

I guess what I'm thinking is order a gallon from US Composites to cover the bottom and order the primer to cover the top. Am I talking crazy? Or do you think the 635 thin epoxy from US Composites would serve the same purpose as the primer?
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

They can call it epoxy all they want but anything WATER BASED ain't gonna replace true epoxy resin.

I hesitate to give a recommendation as to how much you'll need because it has varied so greatly for people. They type of resin, the application method, and the thirstiness of the wood all contribute. Some have used as little as a gallon, I went through three!
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
82
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Worked on the boat a couple hours last night. Mostly working on removing all the stupid rusted in screws and bagging up all the foam. Trying to get back under the splash well to get the foam out is a PITA. Goal to night is to remove the foam from under the splash well and then start removing the gunwale foam.

Put my first order in for "stuff".
6 gang switch for the console.
50031297_0.jpg

5 gang switch for the bow.
50031295_0.jpg

4 x recessed cup holders for the consoles and the casting deck.
3675220c_1.gif

Livewell light
ledlivewelllight_1.jpg

Coat It
41D0zLNHLXL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
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