1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

ezmobee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Just make sure you'll still have room for your motor to tilt all the way up (without smooshing your control cables)!
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Take a gander at my Jet Star thread - I shortened my splashwell by a fair margin. I feel like it was well worth the effort;)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Remove your splashwell and cut 4" off the length and then install it 2" lower is the way I see to do it, but I don't know how much clearance you have in your battery locker.
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Jas,
Your thread was EXTREMELY helpful!

Jig,
I'm going to be moving the batteries to the middle of the floor, between the consoles and ahead of the gas tank. The only thing under the splash well would be the gas tank for the kicker. .

Thanks for the insight guys. it's nice to have all this expert input on the rebuild!

The Tyee comes home tomorrow. Gonna start tearing her up!
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Started tearing apart the Tyee. Amazing what I found. A mouse tunnel in the foam. Residential wiring. Rusted screws in the pedestals. And that's just the bow.
IMAG0085.jpg


IMAG0078.jpg

Mouse Tunnel
IMAG0095.jpg
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Oh hay-yul yeah! Neglected tinny porn!!! Pull it apart some more... pull it apart some more!!!

Keep those pics coming, we love the boat demolition pics just as much as we love the putting it back together pics!

What was the 120 v Romex wire connected to, the trolling motor?
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

It was connected to the starter battery and the trolling motor battery. Guessing the idea was to charge both at the same time. Good lord.
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Some more DESTRUCTION!

Deck out.
IMAG0091.jpg


Carpeting out.
IMAG0098.jpg


Up next, remove the consoles....stay tuned.
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

I got the first console out. I found that the face of the console had new wood screwed to old wood. The top of the console was new plywood, screwed to rotten plywood. Of course, the console was bolted to the gunwale and the bolts had rusted nuts. EVERY BOLT IS RUSTED IN THIS THING!
Here's a pic of what the Tyee would look like as a side console...with rotten plywood.
IMAG0099.jpg


When I rebuild the passenger console I'm going to use these to fasten it to the boat
01_36.jpg
. That way I can remove the console whenever I like.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

You're making good progress!

It sounds like whoever did the previous resto didn't have a clue and didn't use stainless hardware. Nor did they know that new wood on rotten wood doesn't last very long.

Thanks for posting the pics, looking forward to the next batch.
 

TyeeMcGee

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

The foam under the rotten deck seems dry but was attacked by mice. Millions of little pieces of chewed up foam are under the deck and the smell is quite pungent. As I was reaching under the plywood to pull it up my hand hit a ball of fur and I nearly sh*t myself. Gigantic mouse nest, but no mice to be found so far. Since my kids will be in this boat, I won't want any disease carrying mouse turds underneath so I'm going to rip all the foam out. I started taking it out in one area and it went pretty easily. Probably took me 5 minutes to remove 1/2 a stringer full of foam using a pry bar.

Debating whether to go the pour in foam route or the noodle route. Somebody help me decide! I'm not sure where each method sits at a cost point. I'm assuming noodles are more. I'm leaning more toward noodles, or a crap load of old life jackets :D

Here are the pros and cons as I see them:

Pour-In Foam PROS
- Quieter
- Helps with structural integrity

Pour-In Foam CONS
- Messy and difficult intallation
- Doesn't allow for easy water drainage
- Can't easily remove it if I need to inspect the hull.

Noodle PROS
- Easy installation
- If they ever get water logged or the hull needs inspection, removal is easy
- Can always be used as a play toy if I forget the tube

Noodle CONS
- Not as quiet as pour in foam.
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Oh boy, foam talk!!!!:eek::eek:

I really wish I could side with the pour in foam, I do seriously. Great benefits!

However the two deal breakers for me are...

1. Drainage - Pour in foam traps water. This could eventually result in water logged foam (worthless, heavy) and possible corrosion to the alum hull.

2. $$$ - I'm pretty sure pour in is more way more expensive by comparison to noodles and pink/blue foam board.
 

Teamster

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Nov 8, 2010
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1,923
Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

If your going to take your kids out in this boat I would use two part closed cell pour in foam,...

Your family is important, Keep them safe!!

Sure it MIGHT need to be redone in another 25 years, So what???
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

I'd vote noodles or blue/pink sheet foam (extruded polystyrene).
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Oh man, Teamster played the "your kids will parish" trump card:eek:
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Pourable is the best and can be installed for proper drainage, like my Tracker has.

DSC02208paint.jpg


DSC02206.jpg
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Jim did a nice job filling the space and providing for drainage down the center line into the bilge.:)

But...

How does water work it's way from the sides down to the center line?

That's were I see part of the problem. Trapped water on both sides.
 

TyeeMcGee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Jig,
Your foam looks like artwork :D
However, as Jas says,
How does water work it's way from the sides down to the center line?

That's were I see part of the problem. Trapped water on both sides.

I also see that as a problem. Maybe it isn't. I'll ponder it some more.

In the meantime, more progress on demo...
More mouse nests under the driver's seat. Absolutely RANK! Not sure if you can see all that well, but the deck screws are all rusted and I stripped out 3 out of 5 screws. I went to the good ol' HD and got a stripped screw remover kit (I think it's call Grip It). Worst $20 I've ever spent. Going to have to sawzall those babies.
IMAG0116.jpg


Got the other console out. This stuff looks so easy when I see the other rebuilds...albeit pictures make the process look like it goes a lot faster! I am a little baffled as to how to get the steering wheel off. Took the nut off and it doesn't move. Hmmm....will have to look at it some more.
IMAG0117.jpg


The livewell is serving as temporary foam storage until I get some more garbage bags. I did eventually get the trolling motor off. The slip plates were dang near fused together. Lots of hammering.
IMAG0119.jpg


You can see in this pic how the mice shredded the foam. I did find some nasty foam toward the back of the boat. Glad I'm getting rid of it all.
IMAG0121.jpg


My beautiful mess...
IMAG0123.jpg
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Oh man, what a mess!

Good news?

She'll clean up real Purdy;)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1987 Lund Tyee 5.3 Rebuilt

Jim did a nice job filling the space and providing for drainage down the center line into the bilge.:)

But...

How does water work it's way from the sides down to the center line?

That's were I see part of the problem. Trapped water on both sides.

Believe it or not, that's actually a factory install on the foam.

The "wrinkles" are the only thing that holds water and it isn't very much, the foam is 1/2-1" below the deck so it doesn't hold water against the deck. It's hard to tell in the pics, but the foam slopes to the keel too.

I plan to lift my decking and straighten the foam out a little more this summer when it gets too hot to fish. I will do away with the wrinkles and there will be a smooth surface that slopes to the keel with a 5/8" between the top of the foam and the bottom of the decking... stay tuned for that if you're interested.
 
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