1986 Brougham Bridger Yukon Delta Fishing boat renovation

kcassells

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If its upside down work I found its best to roll out poxy and let it get real tacky bfore applying any glass.
Slow and sticky. Says I!
 

kcassells

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roll out poxy and let it get real tacky bfore applying any glass. I also precut the glass to handle like into 12" runs x width cause your hands are so busy. Light overlap or not.
Do a trial run. :watermelon:
 

Jeff Fro

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I guess I'm not following you or I wasn't explaining what I need to do. I need to bond the plywood to the bottom side of the upper half of the boat. Won't be any glass between the bottom of the top (inside) of the boat and the plywood until the plywood is attached.

Or per what you were saying was the same thing? Just coat the topside of the plywood with the epoxy and place it up against the bottom side (inside) of the top half of the boat. And the epoxy will bond the plywood, MDO, against it?

Thanks, just trying to wrap my head around it.
 

kcassells

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Hairy pb and some fashion of pressure clamps to press it against whatever you are appying to. Going to need to sand to clean glass. What r u trying to do? lol?:yield:
 

Jeff Fro

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Since the MDO that I have found has a layer of paper on one side, not fiberglass, I'll be using marine grade plywood instead.

Speculation is that the thickness of the original flooring panels were 1/2", I'm contemplating 3/4 for the extra stiffness.

If one was to use PL Premium (kinda troweled) instead of PB resin, i read that there is some out gassing going on while it cures. Loctite's specs say fully cured in 24 hours, sets in 30 minutes. My questions are: How much out gassing is there? and How long would it take to out gas fully? There will probably be 2-3 days from initial install to coating the bottom with glass. I did the transom with the PB and 2x4 clamp up method, these boards for the floor will be 10 ft long not 7 1/2 ft.

Thanks.
 

kcassells

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That should be ok. I had farting going on for weeks though with that crap. You'll know when a weird bubbleor more shows up that blows the layup. JMHO
 

Jeff Fro

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Well, we jumped at the destruction of the floors due to the great weather we had for the weekend. Seems that after sitting for two years in the garage, it still wasn't dried out. I've seen honeycombed aluminum used in aircraft, composite cored honeycomb in various racing applications. But I have never seen honeycombed paper/cardboard in anything, much less a marine application. Not that I've seen a a lot of different boats tore apart, just none with heavy paper/cardboard utilized. And they were very wet. Just under the front windows, the front deck had a sag of about 1 3/4-2". Enough weight that it bowed a piece of unistrut steel that I tried to pull it straight from side to side. It weighed enough that I couldn't push it up. Using a hyd bottle jack, got it within a 1/2" of straight. Once the cardboard crap and water was removed, the front deck went to level on its own. I could then lift it off of the 2x4 that was placed through the side windows. I removed the lower skin from the very bottom all the way back to the transom. What a pain in the ass that was. Anyways, my better half will be scraping the cardboard off of the bottom surface today so I can trim the sides that was left when I cut the bottom surface off.
 

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kcassells

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never saw paer used like that either. I do understand the value of honeycomb for it's strength. PIA but pretty cool. Is all the
rest you left honeycomb? Probably wet too.
What are you going to put back.
 

Jeff Fro

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Damn near enough water in that honeycomb paper to get a shower.

Was considering 1/2" marine or ACX plywood. Might go with 5/8. Not that much more in cost or weight, but definitely stiffer. Looks like we'll do the PB to put the plywood back in.

Much to my amazement, I have found one other boat like mine this morning. It was being used by a commercial diving outfit here in Illinois. Will be giving them a call this am to see about taking a look at the trailer since the boat/trailer is for sale. The ad is dated July 2018, don't know if it is still for sale or not.
 

kcassells

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That'll do it. You may end up modify any trailer you buy to meet your boats hull.
 

Jeff Fro

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Just going to build a new trailer. Been looking at a lot of pics of sea camper trailers and it doesn't look that hard. It's in the design phase right now, then through my mechanical engineering brother for analysis. Was trying to get someone on the Sea Camper FB page to take a few measurements for me, well, that was almost like pulling hens' teeth.

Anyways, stopping by a local fiberglass place to pick up a couple of things. Hopefully they're not too expensive on gel-coat. Planning on having the front plywood in place later today.
 

Jeff Fro

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Alrighty, did the PB to put the front plywood in under the front deck. What a (^*&^(&^ mess! Had squeeze out everywhere, which isn't really a bad thing. However, resin is horrible to get out of hair. My GF wore a Home Depot bag on her head to keep the resin out of her hair for the second one...told her the only thing that would make her look better if it was a walmart bag instead. Can't say what her reply was, still laughed. Anyways, we got the second one up without too much of an issue. Will give it the weekend to fully cure, then start filling the edges and tabbing it in on Monday.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 

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Jeff Fro

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Yes it would've, but I didn't feel like getting an ass kicking over it... and I know it would've happened in the middle of the night...lmao
 

Jeff Fro

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Looks like we should be done with all of the fiber glassing this weekend. We have Upper half: 4 more small plywood fill-in pieces and tab them in, tab the outboard edge of the upper deck plywood. Hull: one 4 x 8 sheet in the bottom, 3 pieces for each of the fuel tanks to sit on, and 2 - 2 x 4 x 8' for the 4 x 8 sheet to sit on. Need to put the three transom drains in as well.

Haven't decided yet to put the pvc tubing for the wiring on the upper half or in the hull. Thinking the upper half as of now.

Ordered the transom repair kit that has the gimble bearing, bellows, and numerous other gaskets to refurb the lower unit. Will still need a couple more gaskets I'm sure as I go along. The gasket on the gimble housing that goes up against the outside of the transom looks to be in pretty good shape, does one normally re-use that one or is it better to replace it? I'll probably be painting the boat either this fall or early in the spring.

Any suggestions as for as marine grade fuel line? Needing 1 1/2" filler line, 5/8" vent line, and 3/8" supply line.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 
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