original post is 16 years old !!!! best to start fresh with a new post
(site policy i think)
btw servicing your oldy is best done with the johnson "bible" $20 for all you need !! to calm all your doubts
https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm
whatever the cause control relays should always respond to switches and CLICK !!! if they don't the motor will not be fed power hence stay dormant. (See A&B main power to motor on PDP)
2 relays (one at a time ) can receive switch power to alternate polarity on blue -green
Their...
yes I saw video .. funny noise for certain ... mine always was noisy (screechy) at both max high and max low but ... that just tells me it reached it's maximum position. after my rebuild I never had trouble but it still screeches
when maxed out
well if the tilt tube is greased the T&T seals likely need servicing.
on my 2005 75hp ETEC...the T&T unit needed a rebuild.(failure to raise)
see utubes...someone likely done it for you to see..
rectifier/regulaors are fine for stabelizing the volts to protect electronics but a simple full wave rectifier will use the battery as a kind of buffer.
if you do get high volts messing up electronics you could get a rectifier- regulator and mount it somewhere . ( lots of them on...
your engine should have 2 yellow wires connected to this rectifier which will charge your battery !! ...usually wired back to the main incoming B+ post on the solenoid (see the fat red cable another one to a fuse) .
this link will bring you to a list of manuals..
download the 2002-2006 ETEC FICHT and you will find the wiring diagram you need to track down your problem (blown EMM aside)
see screen grab..showing typical single fuse on your engine...
lots of AOMCI members in FL... join up !! they can hep and even come over if nearby .
btw... 6R are great engines but for small lakes - ponds the little 4HPs 2 cyl. non shifting are even simpler to use & service.
https://www.aomci.org/
if all else fails... & that trim tab seems to have a hole in it already..get a sharp chisel. and hammer it should split being soft metal... access the bolt head to work on it .. but a new tab and bolt if the GC can be dropped
.
desperate problems need desperate measures....
why not just drill out the bolt head... work on dropping the GC and.... you can work on the remains of the headless stud to work it loose with heat and/or a release agent.
you still have to work the splines in the PH ... planning to flip it drill it and oil it ?
good winter project :-)
Certainly not.... I messed up on my 75hp mistakenly unbolting the anode(#75) and snapped the head flush. Unable to hacksaw the the bolt (no space) I resorted to drilling out the anode till it broke apart ...got a new one from Amazon.... ( 2 types of metal for the anode.....and of course...
OK ... me if I was up the creek with no access to the drive shaft I would drill a 3/8 hole in the side of the lower section ... flip that engine upside down and dribble some release agent "down" the drive shaft hoping to have it soak in the splines. May take a week or two but keep...
