Yes they will work.
Just make sure the length is ok.
You can make a longer cable work but one thats just a little too short= NO
Look around for cheaper cables. I managed to find 4 22ft. cables for under $100. That was ebay.
NEVER buy used.
The older 87 doesn't have recirc hoses like the newer blocks have.
The bottom of the block/front has a hose barb that goes to the plenum, it can clog and cause problems.
Inital repair is the 2 seals bottom next to the shuttle.
99% of the time they have gone bad.
Post #4 in this forum has a bunch of posts that cover this and more.
The 2 posts below cover a lot with the shuttle valve repair and T@T fixes.
I wouldn't replace/rebuild anything until the links below...
Your gonna have to drop the lower unit, remove the front cover then reset the yoke on the end of the prop shaft use assembly grease, regular grease won't melt easily and can gum up the works. .
Get a parts diagram and a service manual.
Clymer and Seloc are the last choice in manuals..
Oh yea...
If the pin was removed and someone tried shifting ??
It might have gone into gear, maybe not but that's all that they'd get.
So YES he probably knew the pin was misssing.
Updated from last year??? The post is 5 years old?
You setting the carbs in the water and in gear??
Do the starting fluid test, spray starting fluid around the intake side of the motor, under the flywheel and down, under the packs and the coils. If this makes any difference in the way it...
You sure there's not another wire in the battery area? Lots of boats have a power lead for the accessories.
One guy calls and says he needs to get his boat rewired as the previous owner messed up the wiring. The PO had added about 200 foot of wiring trying to get power to the radio/depth finder...
After the compression test, check the overheat alarm? Key on, ground the orange lead at the buds bar, the alarm should sound off.
Then check the tank vent for a clog, bugs get in the hose and can cut off the air starving the motor.
