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  1. jerryjerry05

    85 Force delayed stall at WOT

    After the compression test, check the overheat alarm? Key on, ground the orange lead at the buds bar, the alarm should sound off. Then check the tank vent for a clog, bugs get in the hose and can cut off the air starving the motor.
  2. jerryjerry05

    Force 85 hp Help Disassembling lower end.

    The year is probably right. Get a parts diagram. Called drive shaft and prop shaft. The carrier on prop shaft should just pull out. The drive shaft won't come out until the pinion gear/nut is removed. Why take it apart???
  3. jerryjerry05

    Bet up by a 1998 120hp force

    If it dies with starting fluid, your sucking air, probably around carb base
  4. jerryjerry05

    Force 50 turns over but wont run

    More pics of the ignition components and the lower unit? Compression, spark, fuel. That 50 can actually run on 1 cyl. The year of the motor? The newer models have a lanyard hooked to a kill switch, that hooked up?
  5. jerryjerry05

    Force 85 1987 bayliner capri

    Don't think you can fix that. Look for another.
  6. jerryjerry05

    Force 85 1989 flywheel magnet pain

    Myself, I NEVER had much luck in regluing those magnets :(
  7. jerryjerry05

    Force 85 1989 flywheel magnet pain

    DON'T remove the others.
  8. jerryjerry05

    TILT & TRIM PUMP MANIFOLD

    I haven't had much experience with this style of pump.
  9. jerryjerry05

    Force 85 1987 bayliner capri

    Does the boat have a tachometer? You using the choke in the water? Sometimes it's necessary to use or not use the choke. One of my motors 1988/85 Didn't want to start unless the motor was tilted all the way up????? You need to experiment to see what works for you? Idle in a bucket, about1200...
  10. jerryjerry05

    1996 Force 40 outboard

    The "idle" air screw is for running at idle, usually has no effect on running at high speeds. Set the screw at 1. 1/2 turns out. Then in the water, in gear, turn the screw in 1/8th turn then wait 10-12 seconds (that burns the fuel at the old setting) then again 1/8th turn until the motor smooths...
  11. jerryjerry05

    got boat going

    It might need more???? Once you get it running, can of starting fluid, spray around the intake side of the motor, under the flywheel and around the carb/intake. If that makes any difference in the way it runs???then its sucking air. Lots of times one tiny cough, backfire or stutter can blow a...
  12. jerryjerry05

    Identifying Chrysler 45 hp Outboard year and Model Number

    I have a bin of old parts if you need something? I don't sell them, I give them away if you donate the $$ to a local animal shelter. I pay the shipping as my part.
  13. jerryjerry05

    Identifying Chrysler 45 hp Outboard year and Model Number

    Force came about in the80's when Bayliner bought them. This is all Chrysler. If you can find a parts diagram??? they usually show the drive shaft housing and it usually includes the extension in the pics. The motor without the extension is15" add another 5" for the extension.
  14. jerryjerry05

    TILT & TRIM PUMP MANIFOLD

    That pump is a Mercury pump. Maybe go to the merc. site and ask there???
  15. jerryjerry05

    Identifying Chrysler 45 hp Outboard year and Model Number

    Someplace on the block is a foundry stamp. The stamp could be round with the year in the middle of the stamp. Most times its on the stbd. side or possibly under the carb on the intake manifold.
  16. jerryjerry05

    Fresh bore and 125 psi on one cylinder??

    Yes, bigger jets.
  17. jerryjerry05

    Mercury force 120

    Year??? Model???? Add pics(any photo sharing site) of your lower or where the parts missing? After 5posts you can add photos. Without the year it can have different linkages.
  18. jerryjerry05

    repair mishap

    outboardignition.com has tests for your system. A stator or trigger even rectifier can look good but bad inside. A stator can test good and still be bad :(
  19. jerryjerry05

    1989 ish Mercury Force 120 ignition issues

    The gaskets should be thick and stiff with a sealer already on them. The factory used no sealer just good gaskets. The mounting surfaces might need a mill job. Over time the heat causes them to round off and makes resealing tough. Usually when I do a rebuild and if there is no problem with...
  20. jerryjerry05

    Fresh bore and 125 psi on one cylinder??

    125 isn't great. Maybe the gasket didn't seal right. At .040 over you might need to reject the carbs??? Remove the head, add a little gasket sealer around that hole then do the comp test again. If this makes the difference then the surfaces might need squareing off??
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