Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

GA_Boater

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Ohhh wow thanks for the heads up I was on Great lakes skipper last night and came 2 clicks away from ordering a multi gauge.

I think it's best to hide the wallet when browsing GLS. They have some decent prices on some things. I keep looking at the multi gauges too. Might re-think that after EZs input.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

70 noodles will only float about 700 lbs. Pack your bilge full of them so as to displace water as well as act as floatation.

Has the decking or transom been sealed yet?
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

70 noodles will only float about 700 lbs. Pack your bilge full of them so as to displace water as well as act as floatation.

Has the decking or transom been sealed yet?

Its going to pack slammed full I haven't sealed anything yet.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

70 noodles will only float about 700 lbs. Pack your bilge full of them so as to displace water as well as act as floatation.

Has the decking or transom been sealed yet?


From what I have been reading 1 ft of pool noodle will float 4 lbs. So by my calculations with an 840 lb hull weight, and 390 lbs motor weight=1230 lbs 1230/4=307.50 ft. Right now the noodles are 6 ft each, so I should need 51.25
 

jigngrub

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

From what I have been reading 1 ft of pool noodle will float 4 lbs. So by my calculations with an 840 lb hull weight, and 390 lbs motor weight=1230 lbs 1230/4=307.50 ft. Right now the noodles are 6 ft each, so I should need 51.25

Don't take someone elses word for it, do the experiment yourself.

I think you'll find that 1' of noodle will only float half of that 4 lbs., that's right... 1' of regular noodle like you have will only float about 2 lbs... but don't take my word for it either, do the experiment.

Not having enough floatation is just like not having any at all... the boat still sinks to the bottom.
 

bob johnson

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

From what I have been reading 1 ft of pool noodle will float 4 lbs. So by my calculations with an 840 lb hull weight, and 390 lbs motor weight=1230 lbs 1230/4=307.50 ft. Right now the noodles are 6 ft each, so I should need 51.25
sig: your pm box is FULL... bob
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey bob I cleaned it up a bit. Oooopppssss.
As to everyone else, no updates today because as of 845 pm last night in the great state of Tennessee, we have another new addition to our family.

Sig Saur P229 has a new niece. Diana Rhea was born 7lbs 13 ounces healthy and happy.
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Do uncles pass out cigars? Now get back to work. :)
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Here is the actual Scientific Calculations for figuring the floatation capabilities of a pool noodle, MINUS the Hole. A boat will NOT sink Like a Metal ball attached to a Pool Noodle. A Motor Will but a Boat will NOT. The USCG does NOT require BYBB (Back Yard Boat Builders) to put ANY foam in their boats. I HIGHLY recommend that everyone use adequate flotation foam but... It IS your boat and your ARE free to do as you see fit. The Insurance Costs and Recovery fees for recovering a boat from the bottom of the lake are a lot more than the cost of flotation foam.

1 Liter or 1000cc (or ml) equals 1 kg or about 2.2 lbs. We're going to use 1 foot of a 3.5" diameter noodle. Converting this to metric we use 1"=2.54cm. So, the noodle is 30.48cm long by 8.89cm in diameter.


Here goes: volume of a cylinder=pi(r)(r)(length)or 22/7 X 4.445cm X 4.445cm X 30.48cm = 1892.7cc or 1.89L

Converting the weight of 1.89L of water back to pounds is 1.89kg X 2.2=4.16 lbs. This does not take into account the hole going down the length of the noodle! In other words, the noodle will actually support a little less than 4.16 lbs!


 

jigngrub

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Here is the actual Scientific Calculations for figuring the floatation capabilities of a pool noodle, MINUS the Hole. A boat will NOT sink Like a Metal ball attached to a Pool Noodle. A Motor Will but a Boat will NOT. The USCG does NOT require BYBB (Back Yard Boat Builders) to put ANY foam in their boats. I HIGHLY recommend that everyone use adequate flotation foam but... It IS your boat and your ARE free to do as you see fit. The Insurance Costs and Recovery fees for recovering a boat from the bottom of the lake are a lot more than the cost of flotation foam.

1 Liter or 1000cc (or ml) equals 1 kg or about 2.2 lbs. We're going to use 1 foot of a 3.5" diameter noodle. Converting this to metric we use 1"=2.54cm. So, the noodle is 30.48cm long by 8.89cm in diameter.


Here goes: volume of a cylinder=pi(r)(r)(length)or 22/7 X 4.445cm X 4.445cm X 30.48cm = 1892.7cc or 1.89L

Converting the weight of 1.89L of water back to pounds is 1.89kg X 2.2=4.16 lbs. This does not take into account the hole going down the length of the noodle! In other words, the noodle will actually support a little less than 4.16 lbs!



Yeah, that looks good on paper... but will suck in reality if you try to float 4 lbs. with 12 inches of noodle, that's why I suggested Sig do the experiment himself.

From someone that actually did the experiment:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/truth-about-noodles-387186.html
 

ezmobee

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Here is the actual Scientific Calculations for figuring the floatation capabilities of a pool noodle, MINUS the Hole. A boat will NOT sink Like a Metal ball attached to a Pool Noodle. A Motor Will but a Boat will NOT. The USCG does NOT require BYBB (Back Yard Boat Builders) to put ANY foam in their boats. I HIGHLY recommend that everyone use adequate flotation foam but... It IS your boat and your ARE free to do as you see fit. The Insurance Costs and Recovery fees for recovering a boat from the bottom of the lake are a lot more than the cost of flotation foam.

1 Liter or 1000cc (or ml) equals 1 kg or about 2.2 lbs. We're going to use 1 foot of a 3.5" diameter noodle. Converting this to metric we use 1"=2.54cm. So, the noodle is 30.48cm long by 8.89cm in diameter.


Here goes: volume of a cylinder=pi(r)(r)(length)or 22/7 X 4.445cm X 4.445cm X 30.48cm = 1892.7cc or 1.89L

Converting the weight of 1.89L of water back to pounds is 1.89kg X 2.2=4.16 lbs. This does not take into account the hole going down the length of the noodle! In other words, the noodle will actually support a little less than 4.16 lbs!



83ca76335c3d944e99cd95e147612edc.jpg
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

OK I gather what everyone says about the foam but unfortunately this is one of those things that the only way anyone will know for sure is to sink a boat. OR go back with what the manufacturer put in it originally which is rot inducing expandable foam. That route is absolutely not going to happen and well the lake is to danged cold right now for me to volunteer to sink my boat I have some white foam from other projects to go under the gunnels and pool noodles 70 of them at the moment if I can fit more I will go buy more. If not that is why we wear PFD's and have insurance. As long as the family is safe the rest is only money.

This is the route I am committed to I really hope everyone stays around for the fun and maybe advice needed, but rest assured if I sink this boat no amount of foam is going to save it anyways.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Sounds like a plan.........

Congrats on the new addition to the family tree......
 

jigngrub

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

OK I gather what everyone says about the foam but unfortunately this is one of those things that the only way anyone will know for sure is to sink a boat. OR go back with what the manufacturer put in it originally which is rot inducing expandable foam. That route is absolutely not going to happen and well the lake is to danged cold right now for me to volunteer to sink my boat I have some white foam from other projects to go under the gunnels and pool noodles 70 of them at the moment if I can fit more I will go buy more. If not that is why we wear PFD's and have insurance. As long as the family is safe the rest is only money.

This is the route I am committed to I really hope everyone stays around for the fun and maybe advice needed, but rest assured if I sink this boat no amount of foam is going to save it anyways.

I gather what everyone says about the foam but unfortunately this is one of those things that the only way anyone will know for sure is to sink a boat

Uh, yeah... about that.
If your boat has enough floatation foam it will absolutely not sink! Like this:
Lund Boat Floatation Video - YouTube
This means getting your family back to the dock safe and dry without have to use your PFDs for what they were made for.

OR go back with what the manufacturer put in it originally which is rot inducing expandable foam.
Expanding foam doesn't induce rot... owner neglect induces rot. Neglect your boat and leave it exposed to the elements and it'll rot with or without foam and it won't matter what kind of foam it has in it if it has foam.

As long as the family is safe the rest is only money.
The safety of family and friends is the primary reason for putting in enough floatation foam to safely float your boat.

The "some is better than none" rule doesn't work with floatation foam, you either have to have enough or more than enough to float your boat. Not enough is the same as none.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Well I took Ga's advice and went back to work transom is now glued and curing in the garage, while I was at it I started cutting new plywood for the seats.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Way behind on updates and pics so I did just a little more today.

This one is from the other night I grabbed a pic before I finished clamping.

20130322_225459_zps6ed5d11a.jpg


I started cutting new seat bases, I know it is premature at this point but I am using what is remaining out of the transom and floor to rebuild the seats, so I will have a good idea of how much more lumber I need to purchase.

20130325_132840_zps2c16ad03.jpg


Note the amazing $10 jigsaw I bought 10 years ago when dirt poor. It has been amazing.

20130325_134800_zps14a7addd.jpg


I am repurposing as much of the lumber as possible as I am hoping to have VERY little scrap.

20130325_140634_zps46f833cc.jpg


What is amazing is that lumber has been in my shop for 6 weeks now and you can still almost ring water out of it.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Time for today's update and it is a Long one. First I made a quick trip to the depot. I needed to fab up a part for my air compressor, and while I was there I grabbed some of this, which has to be THE NUMBER 1 tool for any boat restorer.

20130326_123835_zps6d3eb9fe.jpg


Then onto this.

20130326_133527_zpsbfb3830c.jpg


I did realize how easily that would flip off of the trailer like that. After laying out a few things for it to rest on. We ended up here.

20130326_144346_zps368b3295.jpg



So if everyone isn't to mad at me from the other night I could really use some advice here on how to straighten this mess out.

20130326_144813_zps47b7424c.jpg


Bottom shot.

20130326_144915_zps087aacc0.jpg


Then further up the hull in the chine there is a hole it doesn't go all the way through the chine. The hole looks almost factory, as it is perfectly round like a drill bit.

20130326_144925_zps88369184.jpg
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

I am 99.999% certain my boat was built on a friday night after happy hour had already started. I don't forsee this being a problem at all but someone tell me if the rivet being right on the edge like that will hurt anything.

20130326_145017_zps893b3fcb.jpg


You can also see more crooked rivets here.

20130326_145023_zpsab38cec6.jpg


There isn't a straight rivet line really on the whole boat.

I really almost thought there was a major crack in the aluminmum on the chine BUT I guess I got lucky it is just scuff marks on the roller from the trailer.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

20130326_144925_zps88369184.jpg

This ^^^ hole is factory, it's a weep hole to allow water to drain out of the chine... Else it could be trapped inside the chine.

If it ain't broke don't try to fix the out of line rivets:
20130326_145017_zps893b3fcb.jpg


If it passes the leak test, it's essentially been held together this long riveted askew & all :rolleyes:

The transom/hull bottom damage looks to have some brown goop to slathered on the joint, it's hard to tell how much damage has been done to the aluminum:
20130326_144813_zps47b7424c.jpg


Just above the left row of transom rivets, to the right of the bilge drain, looks to be the worst of it. Might check for leaks around it ^^^ and the end of the chine w/ the brown goop. And depending on how that goes, make a leak-stop plan 1st & then address the cosmetics &/or repair of the areas.
 
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