Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

I never get out of any of those places with the ONE thing I went in for. :facepalm: Nice work-around getting the cap back in place and fastened.

Amazing what can happen when the wife and kids leave the house and the man is alone in the shop for 2 hours.

Ok thinking ahead, the Previous owner installed a technological marvel at one time, a cassette deck, and two 5 1/4" speakers. The unfortunate thing is that when he did it he hacked up the console, and left two large holes in the console.

You can see here.



I want to install a glove box but it is just slightly smaller than the hole in the console what is the best way to patch this up so it will be solid and even, I don't want dips in the vinyl after it is covered.

 

[jvanhees]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

More progress...good work and keep at it! Amazing what one can do with zero distractions!

I may have missed it somewhere, but is there a splash date in mind yet?

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

More progress...good work and keep at it! Amazing what one can do with zero distractions!

I may have missed it somewhere, but is there a splash date in mind yet?

No real splash date in mind just kind of shooting for somewhere around Memorial day weekend sooner would be nice but i am not holding my breath.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

You won't regret dropping the cash on the air riveter, a great investment.

On the patch, you need some extra material to make a patch to fill the gap. I would make the hole for the new box, put some material on the backside and mark where it needs to be cut. Cut the filler piece and butter a backer piece with some JB, then put the piece you cut to fill the opening to the buttered inside piece. Clamp it and let it set up. Hope that makes sense.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Are you trying to put the glove box where what looks like a speaker hole is or where the High Tech cassette deck was. Are the holes in AL or wood? The pic is a bit dark. Or I'm getting old. Maybe some of both. :joyous:

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

The holes are in the aluminum. no ply at all on the console the glove box will take midway from the speaker cut out to the far side of the radio cut out

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Makes sense just wondering if it would be strong enough

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

You could counter sink some screws and nuts and skim some JB over the screw heads. And some thin foam under the vinyl for a "plush" look.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey Sig I here you shopping the tool store,a Man can soon part with some coin in a hurry. For your glove box could you take a piece of 1/8 aluminum large enough to cover the speaker hole and say 1" larger than your glove box opening . Cut it out so your glove box will fit in the opening with a 1"border, polish the aluminum up nice, then fasten it to the consul with some stainless machine screws after you put your vinyl.

 

[luv2fish62]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Sig that riveter is worth its weight in gold. I did end up placing some tape over the slot in the rivet stem collector piece. Never failed that the stem ended up in the bilge because of falling out of that slit.

Can you tell me where you got the trim piece that runs around the gunwale? Mine is really pitted and corroded to the point where I want to replace it. Thanks.

Update,

a few more items checked off. Went to Harbor Freight this weekend as they were having one of their "blowout" sales, I spent WAY more than I should have, but since my last little 2ton jack bit the dust when lifting the pontoon I shelled out the $$$ for a 3 ton rapid lift $69 well spent, then I figured I have 50 rivets to set this weekend, so I shelled out another $29 for a pneumatic riveter (worth its weight in gold), of course as you walk down the aisles you see all the other useless junk you just can't live without like a new soldering iron since you broke the tip on yours, bulk stainless steel bolts, precision screwdrivers, centering punch, precision pliers, all designed to part me from my hard earned money, ($142.50) to be exact but what the heck Fastenall wanted $102.50 for just the riveter, and Autozone wanted $129 for the same jack.








It was a pain in the rear getting bow cap to mount back into place for some reason all of the old rivet holes wouldn't line up on both sides, I have a couple of theories as to why,

1. it was extremely cold here earlier this week and it may have contracted and bowed the aluminum while it wasn't fastened to the hull and free to move about.

2. Probably the most likely the bow cap sat on rotten supports for years, and I think that people stepping on and off of it for years probably drew it in towards the middle. More specifically on the Starboard side as that is where things were off a little.


My Solution was to kind of treat it like mounting a tire, or a head and move in a crisscrossing or X pattern using a long sliding bar clamp to draw everything tight and hold it in place until the rivet was set.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

sorry man the rubrail channel on my boat was in good shape

 

[redneck joe]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Amazing what can happen when the wife and kids leave the house and the man is alone in the shop for 2 hours.

Ok thinking ahead, the Previous owner installed a technological marvel at one time, a cassette deck, and two 5 1/4" speakers. The unfortunate thing is that when he did it he hacked up the console, and left two large holes in the console.

You can see here.



I want to install a glove box but it is just slightly smaller than the hole in the console what is the best way to patch this up so it will be solid and even, I don't want dips in the vinyl after it is covered.

i've run into that on two boats. I've used black starboard, black plex, and wood to cover the larger hole then cut a new hole in for whatever you are doing. Kind of like making a trim/beauty ring.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Can you tell me where you got the trim piece that runs around the gunwale? Mine is really pitted and corroded to the point where I want to replace it. Thanks.

If the rub rail is badly pitted, how does the vinyl insert that goes in that trim look?

Based on the info in this thread:
Starcraft Aluminum Boat Rub Rail Insert

That's JUST the vinyl inset, not the aluminum rub rail channel. If it's that ^^^ hard & expensive to get the vinyl I can't imagine how tough it'll be to get the whole rail too.

You can try tacomarine & wefco, among other makers and try to find something else that will work. It'll probably have a vinyl insert readily available too. Some use the donor boat rail &/or insert................

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

The vinylis easy to get just call wefco tell them u need 55 feet of theit model number 0101g. Or if color isnt important then it can be bought from Great Lakes Skipper. The only way you can get the aluminum channel is a donor boat

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

They are 23and1/8" wide from the inner gunwale to the outer portion of the console they are 25 and 1/4" tall from the floor to the top, and they bottom part (where the glove box installs) is 7 3/4" the upper portion where the windshield mounts is 13 3/8"

Sig thanks for the quick response and the measurements. Could you also tell me the height of the dash (steering wheel piece) and the angle of the dash?



Thanks.

I don't have the angle but the height of the dash is 7 3/4"

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

I wasn't feeling very well today so I honestly didn't bother going to the shop but I did start fixing some of those nagging issues. When I first assembled the back to back seats my thought was I will just screw the hinges to the ply and they will be fine. Not so they have been moved and shuffled and yanked around and twisted so much that the screws were working loose. So to rectify the situation today I started on the final assembly of the seats, (mainly because I am out of carpet to finish the bow work).



Each end of the hinge is getting 1/4x20 stainless Tee Nuts, then in the middle I am replacing the screw as a last resort. I know what people are thinking but no I am not going to bother putting 5200 on the seat hinge mounts for a few reasons.

The seat itself is epoxy sealed, this not anything structural, and I don't see enough benefit to opening a new tube of 5200 for this.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

My original seats from SC used the T-nuts. Too bad the plywood rotted around them, but it did take about 45 years. And the wood had zero added protection so I think you're good to go with no 5200.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

My original seats from SC used the T-nuts. Too bad the plywood rotted around them, but it did take about 45 years. And the wood had zero added protection so I think you're good to go with no 5200.

The original seats for mine used Zinc Tee nuts, again the seats were unsealed and rotted around them, now the new seats, are three times epoxy sealed and using Tee nuts, the original seats lasted 20 years before being left in a field to rot.

If yours lasted 45 years with not treating I am thinking that mine being three times epoxy sealed, should last around 70 years by that time I won't give a crap about the boat seats.

 

[Grandad]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Each end of the hinge is getting 1/4x20 stainless Tee Nuts, then in the middle I am replacing the screw as a last resort. I know what people are thinking but no I am not going to bother putting 5200 on the seat hinge mounts for a few reasons.

Hi Sig. I'm a little confused by what I see in the picture. You are putting the tee nuts on the inside, opposite side to where the hinge will be aren't you? If the hinge is mounted directly to the flat side of the tee nut, they'll just pull out. I used these and discovered that if you don't add a little lubricant to the threads, you'll have trouble. I had to rip a seat apart again after the SS threads "galled" and welded to the SS bolt. - Grandad

 

[luv2fish62]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Thanks for chiming in jbcurt. I am actually looking for the trim piece that goes on the inside of the gunwale to keep any water from the gunwale from draining unto the deck. Not sure what it is called so I hope my description makes sense.

If the rub rail is badly pitted, how does the vinyl insert that goes in that trim look?

Based on the info in this thread:
Starcraft Aluminum Boat Rub Rail Insert

That's JUST the vinyl inset, not the aluminum rub rail channel. If it's that ^^^ hard & expensive to get the vinyl I can't imagine how tough it'll be to get the whole rail too.

You can try tacomarine & wefco, among other makers and try to find something else that will work. It'll probably have a vinyl insert readily available too. Some use the donor boat rail &/or insert................