Starcraft islander resto..... where to stop

[Captaincrisp]

Just pulled gas tank. Somthing been eating it too still no leaks but looks close hope its saveable

 

[laurentide]

You should read all of Watermann's and classiccat's Starcraft restoration threads, they both successfully dealt with saltwater boats and corrosion. Corrosion on a fuel tank is scary, I'd personally be very skeptical of its integrity.

 

[pckeen]

There are ways to clean a tank, but the trouble is, if you miss even a little bit of grime or corroded spots, you can end up with that crud in your fuel system. Your options are to clean it, pressure test and use a liquid tank liner, or pick up a new tank. Personally, I would go for the latter. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Captaincrisp]

Ok on to the transom removel. Looks like i do need to take out the 2 main stringers that run down the center of the boat.. unless everything pulls put the back. Also looking for someone with a detailed thread about a transom job on one of these boats. Im way over my head on this one.

 

[pckeen]

Hold off taking the stringers out until you have posted a few more pics. Ordinarily, the aluminum stringers are left in. Why do you feel the need to remove them?

I took another look at the photograph you posted here - when I saw this the first time, I thought that I was looking at a pinpoint hole in the side of the boat itself. Now I'm not so sure. When I saw it the second time, I had the impression that someone had cut a rectangular piece of aluminum out of the hull, which can't be right. Which part of the boat is being depicted here, and can you post a pic from further out? Is this a piece of the boat below or above the waterline?

As for transom removal, you need to remove the motor, if that hasn't been done, and remove all mechanical components attached to the area. You need to remove every rivet/screw that is holding it in, and you need to grind down the heads of the drain plugs from the splashwell and punch them out. There's a pic of this at post 14 in my 16' Naden thread below. You'll need to remove the splashwell cap (the strip of aluminum running along the splashwell). You'll need to remove the cornercaps on the rear corners, and bend up the aluminum on either end. There's a pic of this in progress on jasoutside's 22' Islander resto.

I found the video below from jeepcollector quite useful (I think he's on here somewhere).

 

[Captaincrisp]

Hey thanks alot for the links, thats exactly what i was looking for. I went and borrowed a engine puller. Then built a engine stand, its not half as fancy as some on here but confident it will do the trick. Now its almost time to order plywood and rivets. Stuck deciding between marine ply and regualer exterior grade i think i will use a bit of both and west systems epoxy. Also debating using aluminum checker plate insted old carpeted side panels although most are in good shape. Almost time to stop ripping apart and start going together getting excited for this to be fisnished.

 

[Captaincrisp]

 

[Captaincrisp]

Thats worst bit of the origanal 51 gal v bottom fuel tank. Please dont make me throw it away haha

 

[Watermann]

I wouldn't put 50 gallons of gas in that and stand over the top of it white smashing through waves. What does the name plate on it say for material thickness? It's got to be getting close. Pin holes are in it too it looks like.

 

[GA_Boater]

More pics of the corrosion, inside and out, please. There may be more of that going on.

The gas tank needs to be pressure tested. Close off all the openings and no more than 3 PSI. Spray soap water all over it if it holds pressure at all.

 

[Grub54891]

Don't throw it out, Have a new one made, and keep this one as a reminder of a bad decision almost made. It's close to leaking already if not already.

 

[Captaincrisp]

The cheap in me forces me to see if i can air lock the old girl

 

[Captaincrisp]

Ok its been decided, i will be replacing fuel tank. Im cant seem to find a v bottom plastic tank. So i will have my freind fabricate aluminum one. Around $300 for aluminum 10x5 1/8thsheet and 50$ to bend (canadain pesos) do i need to put baffels in the tank or will it be fine also. With this 92 yamaha 2 stroke 250 should i make it a little longer or will 51 gallons be fine? Sugestions are welcome... well i need em.

 

[Grub54891]

Baffles are a good thing to have in there, Keeps the fuel from sloshing around so much. Can't help ya with the tank size, How much fuel does it use per hour? That would give ya an idea as how long/far you can go at it's present size.

 

[Watermann]

I had Moeller make me a new tank, I wasn't trusting of the local water trough welders. Yes you need to have baffles and there are tons of V bottom poly fuel tanks out there. Take the dimentions of either your space or the tank and send it to Moeller. Then give them a call to make sure they got the dimensions, really nice people. They will let you know if they make a product that will fit your boat.

 

[Captaincrisp]

Well thanks again aquaman! The guy building the tank is a certified pressure fit welder and a lead fabricator for the biggest outfit in town... but i do think plastic is the way to go if i want this boat for more then 10 years and i really do like the hull and layout. I didint see any moler v bottoms on our tank list at our local plastic shop but it could be very outdated. But honestly i cant afford to spend more then $800 cambodian pesos.

 

[GA_Boater]

I would investigate the hull more before dropping Loonies on fabbing a tank. You may not have a hull to drop a tank into for a long time. I'm overly cautious.

 

[Captaincrisp]

Oh gowd ga boater. How do i investegate and what im i looking for

 

[dozerII]

Oh gowd ga boater. How do i investegate and what im i looking for

I think GA is referring to the corroision, because you found the two spots that are through the hull, a very close examination is in order. It is like a cancer and can spread through a hull. Along the ribs, chin strips and behind the transom.

 

[GA_Boater]

Capt. - I see daylight through the hull, never a good sign. And one or two spots means there may be more or some that are close to opening up.

I'm not saying the hull should be toted to the recycler, but you need to go over the hull and clean up the corrosion and fix it. It doesn't fix itself. Just some extra effort so you have a long lasting boat.