Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

[ShoestringMariner]

Another coat of Gluvit tonight on a few places I missed and some areas I wanted to hit again.

I noticed some sharp cracking sounds while walking around. I have to assume that this is the coating where the hull meets the rib flange and the flex is allowing the coating to crack. Not too concerned with that in itself as I didn’t flood all the flange edges seeing as this epoxy was thick and I assumed there was no capillary action. What does concern me is will this product crack off the rivets if the boat flexes hitting wakes or trailering?

I dont like the idea of spending all this time and money for nothing.

 

[SHSU]

Another coat of Gluvit tonight on a few places I missed and some areas I wanted to hit again.

I noticed some sharp cracking sounds while walking around. I have to assume that this is the coating where the hull meets the rib flange and the flex is allowing the coating to crack. Not too concerned with that in itself as I didn’t flood all the flange edges seeing as this epoxy was thick and I assumed there was no capillary action.

Cracking? Any idea where its coming from specifically? I didn't hear or see any cracking on mine when I laid the Gluvit. I wouldn't' expect anywhere you put Gluvit to flex enough from walking to fail.

SHSU

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Cracking? Any idea where its coming from specifically? I didn't hear or see any cracking on mine when I laid the Gluvit. I wouldn't' expect anywhere you put Gluvit to flex enough from walking to fail.

SHSU

SHSU

I suspect it was coming from the random areas where the Gluvit ran off the rib flanges to the hull. I should get a flashlight and double check this.
I figure it is this because the Gluvit was thick and not able to seep under the ribs, I didn’t see the need to coat along the entire flange. I figure that if a rivet was to leak between the rib flange and the hull, the water would simply seep down under the rib to the limber hole anyway, so I focussed on the rivet tails only.

Does this reasoning make any sense?
If Gluvit was very thin and had capillary action I would have done full flange lengths top to bottom.

 

[jdvasher]

I suspect it was coming from the random areas where the Gluvit ran off the rib flanges to the hull. I should get a flashlight and double check this.
I figure it is this because the Gluvit was thick and not able to seep under the ribs, I didn’t see the need to coat along the entire flange. I figure that if a rivet was to leak between the rib flange and the hull, the water would simply seep down under the rib to the limber hole anyway, so I focussed on the rivet tails only.

Does this reasoning make any sense?
If Gluvit was very thin and had capillary action I would have done full flange lengths top to bottom.

I had the same thing, its excess gluvit breaking away from the aluminum. Its much more brittle than I would have expected.

 

[SHSU]

Does this reasoning make any sense?
If Gluvit was very thin and had capillary action I would have done full flange lengths top to bottom.

It was my understanding it was supposed to seep in between the cracks and seams. I applied mine in Texas heat so it might have been runnier then normal.

SHSU

 

[jdvasher]

It was my understanding it was supposed to seep in between the cracks and seams. I applied mine in Texas heat so it might have been runnier then normal.

SHSU

I'm sure the heat does help. I kept the temp in my garage around 70. I'm not sure that was warm enough. I used it as a secondary precaution as I replaced all the rivets that were currently leaking. Honestly though, replacing the rivets was way easier than the amount of time I spent cleaning and prep for the gluvit. I don't see myself using it on future projects.

 

[renns]

I saw in that G-Flex video the guys heated the area with a propane torch prior to application, and then heat gun afterwards. In my cool shop I'll definitely need to do something like that.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I’m going to pick up another batch and do the entire ribs. The ribs look like they’re tight but there’s actually a slight gap. I’ll try the heat gun approach this time to thin it out and get it too creep under.

I’m also going to flip it and do the g flex instead of coat it. Thanks to whomever suggested the g flex. I think it makes more sense to focus on the rivet heads instead of applying it to the entire hull. Only rivets leak....

 

[SHSU]

I used the syringe method for the seam. Also make sure to do it in batches. That way you aren't scrambling to do everything in one go.

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I used the syringe method for the seam. Also make sure to do it in batches. That way you aren't scrambling to do everything in one go.

SHSU

Thanks, definitely going to try that. In fact, I did batches and might have enough left to do seams with the syringe method. Migh save me the need for a 2hour round trip, fuel and cost of another quart...at $110 Cdn.
Last time, I had the garage heater running for days at 20 degrees. But the thermo is at 5.5’ off the floor. It’s colder closer to the floor so I think I’ll turn it up to 25 and also try using a heat gun to help wick it in.

 

[classiccat]

Thanks, definitely going to try that. In fact, I did batches and might have enough left to do seams with the syringe method. Migh save me the need for a 2hour round trip, fuel and cost of another quart...at $110 Cdn.
Last time, I had the garage heater running for days at 20 degrees. But the thermo is at 5.5’ off the floor. It’s colder closer to the floor so I think I’ll turn it up to 25 and also try using a heat gun to help wick it in.

a little heat is key however be careful on the seams...the factory sealant has a relatively low melting point. I think you'll be fine with a heat gun as long as you don't hold it on the same spot for too long.

 

[renns]

My hull is in turtle position in my relatively unheated workshop in Canada. I'm working on getting a proper propane heating system installed, but that may take some time. Last night I experimented with setting a 1500W radiant heater underneath the hull, aiming up into the hull. This seemed to do a nice job at taking the chill off a large section of the hull in a controlled fashion, so I'm planning to proceed with that technique tonight while working on JB'ing or patching the pitted spots. After that, G-flex of bottom rivets and seams.

 

[renns]

a little heat is key however be careful on the seams...the factory sealant has a relatively low melting point. I think you'll be fine with a heat gun as long as you don't hold it on the same spot for too long.

That's a good point right there. Any thoughts on sealing seams from inside or outside or both?

 

[classiccat]

That's a good point right there. Any thoughts on sealing seams from inside or outside or both?

yes, best to seal from the inside & outside.

When the boat is upright, seal the external bow seam and internal side seams (port & starboard).

When the boat is flipped/turtled, seal internal bow seam and external side seams (port & starboard).

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Easy to flip and very light when you have everything out. When I flipped ours, I was concerned about its strength as well. I fixed that by putting a couple 2x4 clamped to the gunnels across the hull. No issues after that.


I believe I have read where flat bottom boats up in Oregon and such do that. I am not sure I would do that, but that is just me.


Why do you want antifouling? I know you want to leave the hull in the water, but year round or just a couple weeks at a time? If you pull it every couple months a quick pressure wash will do the trick as well but that is just me.

SHSU

Coming back to this, the full in water season will be may-October then trailer stored for the winter. To pull it out and wash every 2months isn’t out of the possibility.

What paint would you recommend?

I read that I need several good coats of primer to act as a barrier for the copper content in anti-
fouling paint.

If more straightforward paints will work, I’m all for it. If antifouling paint leaches out into the water body, I’d prefer to avoid it. It’s a small lake

 

[SHSU]

Coming back to this, the full in water season will be may-October then trailer stored for the winter. To pull it out and wash every 2months isn’t out of the possibility.

What paint would you recommend?

I read that I need several good coats of primer to act as a barrier for the copper content in anti-
fouling paint.

If more straightforward paints will work, I’m all for it. If antifouling paint leaches out into the water body, I’d prefer to avoid it. It’s a small lake

As I don't store my boat in the water for extended period of time, take my suggestions as such.

They do make antifoul specific for aluminum boats. That being said, since you are going to be in fresh water, I wouldn't worry to much about antifoul. You aren't trying to combat clams or oysters growing on your hull.

As for paint, I am partial to two part epoxy paints. It takes more work and prep, but think you get a more durable finish. Downside is, if your prep is bad the epoxy is not as forgiving as your normal paint. Also if you want to do a touchup, the colors don't match as easily as they do with a can of rustoleum or such.

Again, just my 2 cents...

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

As I don't store my boat in the water for extended period of time, take my suggestions as such.

They do make antifoul specific for aluminum boats. That being said, since you are going to be in fresh water, I wouldn't worry to much about antifoul. You aren't trying to combat clams or oysters growing on your hull.

As for paint, I am partial to two part epoxy paints. It takes more work and prep, but think you get a more durable finish. Downside is, if your prep is bad the epoxy is not as forgiving as your normal paint. Also if you want to do a touchup, the colors don't match as easily as they do with a can of rustoleum or such.

Again, just my 2 cents...

SHSU

Thanks, I see what you’re saying. Algae build up I think is all I’m going to be dealing with.
What brands are you thinking, PPG, sherwin Williams etc?

 

[classiccat]

Thanks, I see what you’re saying. Algae build up I think is all I’m going to be dealing with.
What brands are you thinking, PPG, sherwin Williams etc?

I've been very impressed with the Interlux line on my topside & transom. Interprotect with the initial primer / adhesion (foam roller), PrimeKote for the secondary primer (foam roller) and Perfection for the top coat (roll-n-tip).

 

[renns]

Coming back to this, the full in water season will be may-October then trailer stored for the winter. To pull it out and wash every 2months isn’t out of the possibility.

What paint would you recommend?

I read that I need several good coats of primer to act as a barrier for the copper content in anti-
fouling paint.

If more straightforward paints will work, I’m all for it. If antifouling paint leaches out into the water body, I’d prefer to avoid it. It’s a small lake

Following this discussion with interest, as our boats will live much the same lives, although ours once splashed will stay in the water until ice-up. I'm currently planning to leave bare aluminum with Sharkhide for areas in continuous contact with water, with painted stripe above (top three strakes). Hoping that will look OK, and be a low-maintenance solution.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I got some pricing from Sherwin Williams today. Thinking of the 646 Macropxoy. 2 part epoxy. 50/50 A/B mix. 2 full gallons so I can do the whole boat and maybe another but I’d have to topcoat above the waterline because it has no UV protection.

But not sold on it, still chasing a 2 part epoxy or maybe a urethane that can withstand immersion. I don’t know a ton about paint so I may be chasing a fools errand here…will keep you posted

But I don’t want to use antifouling now because of the leaching/harm to the water body (small spring fed lake)