Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

renns

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Dec 20, 2017
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316
Wood in mine. Personally would have preferred aluminum. Guess they changed the design over the years.

SHSU
My hull is an Aluminum Goods Corp from the mid-70's. It's a near copy of the SS16. However, the only wood in it is the transom, deck, and side panels. And I suppose perhaps seat cushion bases.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Hey guys. Got a couple more questions;

Question 1)
I am reassembling the windshield. I’ve cleaned it up the best I could. I removed a bunch of gunk with acetone. And I hit it with a maroon scotchbrite. I’m afraid to dig in any heavier for fear I’m going to burn through the anodizing . but I can’t seem to lift the pitting. Wondering if I should hit this with cleaning vinegar.
Once I get the pitting off, would a lacquer clearcoat In a rattle can work to keep it from getting ratty again?

Question 2

My windshield has always had an alignment problem. I assume this was because of rotten floors poor refit the last time the previous owner did the floors etc.

But I’m in the same situation where it will not lineup at the top unless I jack one side up aggressively. And when I do that the window side is not parallel to the starboard jamb.

Is there a trick to getting these to align?
Could the frames go out of square?
Thanks in advance
 

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ShoestringMariner

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I think I discovered a way to tighten it up a bit. All the rivets are loose. Will try that.

My side arms are also hanging in mid air because I raised the consoles slightly to add drainage. I think I will cut them off and make a low L brace so I can reach out unencumbered when docking.
 

ShoestringMariner

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I found that the centre window is racking by gravity. The neoprene rubber inserts are not holding the glass tight enough. There’s only one rivet in each corner of the door frame so nothing to hold it square.

Also added a photo of the drainage holes. I will have to add some sealant at the edge of the dashboard and the edge of the console panel to try and keep it watertight.

Also added a photo showing how the console height difference affected the height of the back brace. For some reason the starboard side is sitting higher than port side. I have not bolted them to the floor yet but they are riveted to the gunnels. And parallel too the gunnel trim. So I’m not quite sure why starboard sits higher than port. These are only mocked up and stud nuts installed finger tight, so these might tune up a little bit better yet. regardless I will have to put a block under them or build a new L brace as I mentioned earlier.
 

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SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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But I’m in the same situation where it will not lineup at the top unless I jack one side up aggressively. And when I do that the window side is not parallel to the starboard jamb.

I ran into a similar issue on mine. Ultimately, I had to add a shim under mine to level them out. Plus under the back braces too because of the added thickness of the flooring.

SHSU
 

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 20, 2017
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316
I did quite a bit of fiddling to adjust and fit my replacement windscreen. Adjustment areas on mine were primarily the height of the 'feet' on the bottom of the inner consoles, and the angle of the windscreen 'wings'. Given I re-worked the windscreen side wings to suit, I was able to adjust to suit the hull.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Thanks guys. The curvature of top of the console seems to be right according to windshield base curvature, even with no shims under the console legs. The puzzling thing is that I raised the console tops by only half an inch. But when I put a half inch shim under each console leg to compensate, it’s much too high. By rights if I raise the entire console by half inch then should that not mean that the leg itself needs to be shimmed by the same?

I think my biggest issue with the centre pane is that there is nothing to hold it square. It’s turning into a parallelogram by gravity. This means it will always sag and continue to ware a bigger mark on the aluminum trim.
Wondering if removing the neoprene glass channels and squaring the frame and applying automotive windshield Urethane sealant Is the way to go In order to keep it square.
 

renns

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Dec 20, 2017
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316
That sucks about the alignment issue. The center pane on my new windshield is quite rigid. Not sure if it's been bonded into the frame or not, but that sounds like an idea worth trying.
 

ShoestringMariner

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I went to look at an aluminum goods boat and trailer on the weekend. This project is going long. The other boat had a wasted motor but I have 2 to use… thought about picking it up and just using that all season at the trailer. And let that become the trailer boat. But I walked away from it. As much as I wanted to have it, I saw a lot of the things that I’ve already corrected need doing on this one too. It would’ve been an ideal project boat but I don’t need two projects.
 

SHSU

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Maybe disassembly and reassembly will work. I took mine all apart and reassembled with new rivets. Haven't had an issue with sagging and such. (Now I need to go check my window...) lol

SHSU
 

ShoestringMariner

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Maybe disassembly and reassembly will work. I took mine all apart and reassembled with new rivets. Haven't had an issue with sagging and such. (Now I need to go check my window...) lol

SHSU
You know, I wonder if belt dressing will work. Something to make the rubber inserts sticky. Coupled with new rivets like you said could be enough. I worry that the jostling in the waves could make the window pop if too tightly sealed?
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
321
Hey guys. Got a couple more questions;

Question 1)
I am reassembling the windshield. I’ve cleaned it up the best I could. I removed a bunch of gunk with acetone. And I hit it with a maroon scotchbrite. I’m afraid to dig in any heavier for fear I’m going to burn through the anodizing . but I can’t seem to lift the pitting. Wondering if I should hit this with cleaning vinegar.
Once I get the pitting off, would a lacquer clearcoat In a rattle can work to keep it from getting ratty again?

Question 2

My windshield has always had an alignment problem. I assume this was because of rotten floors poor refit the last time the previous owner did the floors etc.

But I’m in the same situation where it will not lineup at the top unless I jack one side up aggressively. And when I do that the window side is not parallel to the starboard jamb.

Is there a trick to getting these to align?
Could the frames go out of square?
Thanks in advance
During my rebuild I was thinking the same thing. The issue is with the hing in the window, it is sagging. While my neighbor and I were examining the sag in the door, to my horror, my neighbor Gordie grab the door at the open end, and heaved up on it. That actually bent it back into shape, and now it doesn't sag.

I want to stress that I do not recommend this procedure, but in my case it worked.

Picture of the window after the heave hoe:

Post 376
 

ShoestringMariner

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Thanks for taking me back to your thread. I forgot what a great build it was. What do your hatches close on? Is there a striker/retainer or are they simply friction? Did you have any problems just using plywood? (Twisting boards etc)
 

ShoestringMariner

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Success!!

I was actually able to place a rivet in each corner on the inside of the folding window. I was worried I was going to hit the glass but it worked out.

There’s still a slight bit of flex in the window but I think I’ll have to replace the hinge in order to take that out. Probably not worth the effort. Starcraft did not focus on precision. The left window versus the right window is 3/16 inches in difference on the height. Befalling window is also a 16th under on one side. in order to get the top of the frames to meet nicely with the window closed, I’ve got a larger gap on the starboard side at the bottom. Not overly concerned about this because the mooring cover comes up and fasteners underneath. But I knew I had to get the top of the windscreen lined up or it would drive me absolutely crazy every time I look at it.
Now to pin the consoles down and start The backer boards, the bench seating and floor hatches.
 

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FIGMO

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Messages
321
Thanks for taking me back to your thread. I forgot what a great build it was. What do your hatches close on? Is there a striker/retainer or are they simply friction? Did you have any problems just using plywood? (Twisting boards etc)
Hey Shoe,

I used 1/2 " marine grade plywood with two coats of West System on the top and bottom, with 4 coats along the edges. So far no issues with any twisting, with the West System and vinyl covering I don't suspect there will be any issues. I used piano hinges and latches to secure the hatches. Here are some pics of the work. Starts at 388, and you can scroll down.

388 post
 

ShoestringMariner

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Messages
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Hey Shoe,

I used 1/2 " marine grade plywood with two coats of West System on the top and bottom, with 4 coats along the edges. So far no issues with any twisting, with the West System and vinyl covering I don't suspect there will be any issues. I used piano hinges and latches to secure the hatches. Here are some pics of the work. Starts at 388, and you can scroll down.

388 post
Thanks yep I saw that. Does the latch simply hook underneath the plywood?
 

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 20, 2017
Messages
316
I went to look at an aluminum goods boat and trailer on the weekend. This project is going long. The other boat had a wasted motor but I have 2 to use… thought about picking it up and just using that all season at the trailer. And let that become the trailer boat. But I walked away from it. As much as I wanted to have it, I saw a lot of the things that I’ve already corrected need doing on this one too. It would’ve been an ideal project boat but I don’t need two projects.
Whoa. Almost joined the dark side! Even though this project is far more involved than I had expected initially, I must admit I keep looking fondly at old aluminum hulks I spot sitting in backyards around the province. Must resist like you did, and focus on the one in the shop though!
 

ShoestringMariner

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Messages
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Whoa. Almost joined the dark side! Even though this project is far more involved than I had expected initially, I must admit I keep looking fondly at old aluminum hulks I spot sitting in backyards around the province. Must resist like you did, and focus on the one in the shop though!
I hear you. I might pick one up once this one’s done and start over again but a little bit different.
 

renns

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Dec 20, 2017
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I hear you. I might pick one up once this one’s done and start over again but a little bit different.
I have a soft spot for small runabouts with wrap-around windscreens. I almost bought a Starcraft JetStar before my current project. Looking back on it, I'm glad I passed on it. It was too far gone and too high a price. At least next time I'll know what to look for!
 
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