Ratherb's 74' 21 Ft Starcraft Islander

[Ratherbboatin]

Thanks! chevymaher . I got the seats with a bulk purchase my business made from an inflatable boat store that closed down. So they were the right price. I do need to replace the pedestals as they do not have the correct bracket for the seat. They are worth close to as much as the boat at this point.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Getting close to pulling the engine from the Glasser. There is only the 4 engine mount bolts and the 2 cooling hoses, then I can pull it. Hopefully this weekend or early next week. I have also planned to re-do the rear transom of the SC this coming week. Hopefully time allows.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

I was able to get the Motor Pulled from the old Glasser on Sunday. Photos to come as soon as I can get them posted. Seem to be a having some issues getting them on here today.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Getting the engine strapped up to the Tractor forks

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Going for it! Sloooow and steady

 

[Ratherbboatin]

And its out

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Setting the old 165 on the pallet

 

[mattsimon]

really nice!

 

[Watermann]

Iron removal made easy, well done :thumb:

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Well thanks. It did get hung up on the top rail of the old boat, but I was able to ratchet it up enough to clear. Would not of went well if I was inches to low.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Picked up the plywood to glue and cut out for the transom. I will be adding a 1/8 inch full sheet of aluminum on the inside of the transom and welding another piece to fill in in the Volvo 270 outdrive cut out. The wood transom will end up being 1-3/8"

 

[Watermann]

Sounds like a good n stout plan for the transom.

When welding up that old VP hole be careful about warping. Might think about using a full width piece of angle and c clamps to help keep that floppy skin from warping.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

I am getting a boat builder to weld it, he does all my business welding. Already had the warping conversation. Thanks though.
Cause really no one wants to see me weld..... that would be a disaster!

 

[GA_Boater]

The wood transom will end up being 1-3/8"

Is 1 3/8" a typo?

The transom total thickness needs to be 2" to 2 1/4", which includes the aluminum transom skin, wood and the added 1/8" plate. Too thin means the yoke splines are too deep in the coupler and too thick means the yoke splines aren't deep enough. Both will lead to coupler problems because the yoke moves in and out of the coupler splines as the drive is raised and lowered.

Just double checking, Rather.

 

[Watermann]

I had to read it again too, I think 1-3/8 + 1/8 + 1/2 horse collar = 2.1" adding the skin thickness

 

[Ratherbboatin]

My original transom wood was 1-1/2", my only option was to match the thickness so it can slide in the transom channel of the boat. The thickness of the transom before any collar add on would be 1-3/8" transom wood + 1/8" aluminum + 1/8" original aluminum transom = 1-5/8" as it was right out of the factory. I can then add a 1/2" collar to put me at 2-1/8" overall thickness. Is that not correct? I still have the old glasser to measure the transom thickness.
I will be test fitting the transom wood before I glue it together.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

Here is the cut outline made using my old transom as a template.

 

[Ratherbboatin]

I used 1" screws to fix the plywood together for cutting. I can fill the holes with glue after I remove the screws. Here is the cut out transom. I matched the angle cut on the top side with the same angle as original transom. the 1-3/8" 4x8 plywood was super heavy, but I managed to get it on the table for cutting. I should have planned for a helper....thankfully I don't have a bad back!!

 

[Ratherbboatin]

It is really nice to make some progress.

 

[GA_Boater]

The added collar makes the difference. I didn't see an earlier reference to the collar. You're on the right path.

It is good to see progress!