Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

[mickyryan]

Still trying to figure out how she busted me using the new dishwasher to sterilize my outdrive transom plate

 

[GA_Boater]

The Admirals Mother, your MIL, taught her all the tricks.

Couple of hints in case you wash parts in the dishwasher again, if you dare;

• Don't use the dry cycle if time is short.
• Dirty a few dishes and run a quick cycle to flush any evidence down the drain after parts cleaning.
• Wait til she's out of town.
• Don't leave any parts on the counter after running 'em through the DW. Instant bust!
• Check the inside for a grease scum line after parts washing.

BTW - I don't know you and never heard of you.

 

[archbuilder]

Lol, well I don't currently have an admiral around.....which probably explains why I spend so much money on toys lol!

 

[archbuilder]

I talked with the L6 go to guy today, very nice guy and helpful. I think I am going to send my head up to him to have build it. He is recommending a larger valve set, but not as large as I figured he would. He will also remove the boss from the intake runners and add a lump port kit which will make the head flow a lot better. I might be able to do some of the work myself here, the machine work, and save a few bucks......but after thinking about it I would rather spend a few hundred more and have an expert on these build it.

He recomended a flat top forged piston to get the compression up to 9.5ish, but those only come in 40 over...I am 60 over so that is out. I guess I will run with factory style pistons at 8.4ish. Sucks, but my only other option is to find another block and have all the machine work done. I don't think that is in the budget right now.

I am also going to buy his marine cam, its quite a bit more aggressive than the mercruiser. He says it should work well with the head modifications and give me a healthy power boost.

I think I am just going to buy a new set of rods from him, they come with ARP bolts in them, which is worth $60 or $70 by themselves. I figure by the time I have someone check the rods to find out they are bent, (most likely are) I will have spent half the price of what the new set cost. Seems like a better use of time and money to just order new pistons and rods, then toss the old ones.

I bought a new truck a few weeks ago. I am going to by the tag tomorrow.....If I have any money left I will start getting parts ordered. I have a feeling its going to take little bit to get the head work done, but I guess I have till spring!

I also got the new clamshell vents today. I think I may have figured out a good place for them on the rear deck. They will take some tweaking, but I think some tweaking and maybe a little heat and I can get them to fit and in a place that will work well. They are stainless sheetmetal, so I can always buff them out after tweaking if need be.

I know I will get some pic, I have just been busy trying to wrap up the end of year stuff at work! I should be of for a week starting next Tuesday!

 

[mickyryan]

i think your thoughts are spot on about rods, pistons.as far as camshaft goes make sure its a truck cam type of grind, folks tend to think of cars and forget we boaters have to fear reversion and we need low end torque, plus you dont want the hp to be at 6-7k when the old mr outdrive is best not revved over 5k

 

[archbuilder]

It is an Marine / RV grind. I suspect what was in it is actually a factory type car cam, but then again who knows. Its funny, when we were talking about it, he made a point of talking about how boats are always under low end load, unlike cars which frequently aren't under much load in daily driving. This grind should give a good low end / mid-range torque. I am pretty sure the rods would come out of the oil pan at 7k on one of these lol! Thanks for the thoughts, I can see how a lot of people would go the wrong direction on cam.

 

[froggy1150]

From what I have read a marine cam has exhaust valves closed before piston even starts moving back down. This is so water is not drawn back into engine from exhaust manifold. I don't think a rv cam specifically does that. I would verify cam timing between the 2.

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks for the thought Froggy, I haven't heard that before. Both this cam and the factory are 110 degree lobe separation, the difference is this cam actually has a shorter duration but more lift at .050. I'm for sure not a cam expert, but it looks like to me both cam have overlap.

It should be an issue anyhow, since the water shouldn't be in that part of the exhaust manifold anyhow. The part that hooks onto the engine block should be dry. The problem mine had was water was leaking into that area via a hold into the water jacket.

If I am wrong on any of the above, please chime in and let me know. I know enough about engines to be dangerous :bounce:

 

[mickyryan]

lobe seperation i believe you dont wanna go under 110-112 range, the lower number ie 108 the narrower the seperation the more scavenging it does but instead of scavaging it draws in water lol

 

[archbuilder]

I finally remembered to take a couple of photos. Here is the block after honing, not perfect, but probably pretty good for an 8.5 to 1 engine.



I still need to clean it up now that I have a plan.

Here is the balance of the guts and head, minus the pistons and rods.


II plan on starting to clean things up this weekend. I also need to finalize my budget.......I put a spreadsheet together last night and it is a healthy chunk!

 

[mickyryan]

Looks great! No ridge ya good to go !

 

[jbcurt00]

SOTY nomination topic should have been started the end of Nov...


Time is flgetting short...

 

[Pcolafisher]

When will the nominations be published and for tinnier too!
Cheers

 

[Pcolafisher]

Sorry, that’s tinnies (Starcraft, etc).

 

[jbcurt00]

archbuilder
Use the same dates as Astor did for the Statcraft SOTY voting and etc
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...ar-nominations

 

[archbuilder]

sorry i thought they started after the beginning of the year. Been out of town and just now getting back, i will get it going!

 

[archbuilder]

I spent some time today on Fuggly's power plant. Checked the crank journal sizes and the block deck for flatness. It is flat for sure, which is great to know! I am also working on getting a parts order put together, and setting up shipping for the head work. I am going to spring some bucks on the head, removing the intake bosses, installing the lump ports (increase head flow = horsepower), milling it, hardened seats, having it machined for bigger valves, valve guides, seals, and springs to match the new cam. I am going to see if I can get the block dropped off this week to have it hot tanked and Magnafluxed. I think it is fine, but having it checked at this point is cheap insurance! I would hate to get it back together and find that I have a crack! I think I will also have them put cam bearings in it. I have a feeling progress will be slow for a while, but I am excited to get started on the path of getting it back together!

 

[GA_Boater]

Have the shop put the cam bearings in. One less thing for you to do and shouldn't add much to the bill. Maybe core plugs too.

 

[archbuilder]

10-4 on the cam bearings GA, I have no interest in fiddling with those! And I don't have the install tools, which would cost more than they charge anyhow. I don't have all the core plugs yet, so I may end up putting those back in. So we will see. Just a side note, I guess there are two different size core plugs in the back of the block. There are three on the side which are 1-5/8", which I have NOS Mercury's. I also got a 1-5/8" one for the back, but my block uses a 2-1/64th. I did some digging around, and I found there were apparently two sizes.....so I have an extra 1-5/8" if anyone needs it

 

[GA_Boater]

Isn't one of those on the rear of the block for the camshaft bore? I'm not sure about a GM 6 cylinder.