Mid 1960's OMC Evinrude gull-wing, a work in progress.

[Woodonglass]

I still don't see why you couldn't use the old caps!!! Put em back on and use CSM scraps to seal the seams. NO strength required. Only looking for waterproofing. It'll save time, materials and effort. I still think it's the best solution. But I AM an Old Dumb Okie!!!!

 

[Quantumn]

So last night, I burnt the midnite oil, and was able to make some progress. The conditions were not quite perfect, with humidity at 95% and the temperature hovering around the mid 50's, I was able to at least warm up the 435 poly a bit:

I still don't see why you couldn't use the old caps!!! Put em back on and use CSM scraps to seal the seams. NO strength required. Only looking for waterproofing. It'll save time, materials and effort. I still think it's the best solution. But I AM an Old Dumb Okie!!!!

Utilizing some of Iboat's suggestions, I was able to "make-shift" small wooden platforms just to keep the stringer top pieces in place so I could start pb'n them back into place. Also used thin strips of gorilla tape to keep the stringer sides from wanting to spread apart. Notice the huge holes I needed to fill:



One lesson I learned, when your tired, best solution is to just go to bed. I got in a hurry to finish up the current project and mixed my resin just a little on the hot side, ouch. But it is back together, a little sanding with 80 grit to smooth her out just a little, and will put one layer of 1.5 csm over the cap.

 

[Quantumn]

Excellent day today to work on the vessel, but the Admiral had other plans for me. Her words, "You can play with your boat later, but for the next few hours, your mine. (as she cracks the whip and points me towards the lawn tractor and weed whacker). Gotta keep her happy, lol.



Now that my Honey Do's are done, its time to once again equip the "Personal Protection Equipmentainkiller:" and git' @ er. Going to tackle the other stringer first, cut the top off, in one piece this time, (I am still kicking myself for what I did on the first one), remove the foam, then mix up some pb and put back on. Really looking forward to working again. Whoo Hoo nthego:

 

[Woodonglass]

a little sanding with 80 grit to smooth her out just a little, and will put one layer of 1.5 csm over the cap.

Yup!!!!:clap2:eace::thumb::rockon:

 

[sphelps]

Where there's a will there's a way ! Ya could have used the hole to pour new foam ..

 

[Quantumn]

Where there's a will there's a way ! Ya could have used the hole to pour new foam ..

Lol Sphelps, now you tell me. Hey, no harm/no foul!!! Actually thinking of just filling them up with water noodles, hence I have quite a few just taking up space in our shed. Kill two birds with one stone. Other option is to acquire some high strength 2-part foam, 8lb, and fill them up with that. Hmmm :decision:

 

[Quantumn]

So utilizing MTBoatguy's jigsaw, I started to crop the top off the other stringer. Makes you nervous at first, but once it is started, no turning back, hehe:
(click image)

 

[Quantumn]

Burnt the midnite oil again last night and made some progress. The second stringer cap has been removed, in one piece this time, whew:



Thanks to everyone for the guidance to give me the confidence to move forward. eace: Hard to believe all of this foam was in just one stringer, amazing to say the least:



Picture of the stringer with most of the foamage removed, YAH!!!!:



Stringer cap pb'd back into place and sanded down for more poly application. Preparing to lay down some 1708 on the stringer caps. I contemplated just using 1.5 oz CSM but figured since these stringers are the only supports between the hull and decking, might want to beef it up a little bit since we dissected/weakened them to remove water laced foam.



Almost finished, go man go, you can do it:



"DONE!!":



It was a treat trying to keep myself from sticking to the hull with all the fresh poly resin, lol. But just a woot working with this stuff. Word to the wise, though I used the proper "ppe", during the process, I was unable to even sense a faint odor of the acetone/poly/mekp. That is until I removed the headgear a couple hours later, OMG......:shocked: Please everyone, make your health top priority doing this phase of restoration and do not skimp on your personal safety.

 

[Woodonglass]

The "Stink" is quite "Aromatic" but... overall the health issues to be quite honest, are not as bad as one might think. If you really do the research, while they are not the best vapors in the world to be inhaling, there ARE a lot worse. But having said this, I still advise everyone to wear a full Face Respirator with the proper filters. No need risking our lungs for anything. We only get the 2!!!!!

You've done some fine work and should be proud of your efforts. You'll be back on the water before you know it.:rockon:

 

[Quantumn]

You've done some fine work and should be proud of your efforts. You'll be back on the water before you know it.:rockon:

Coming from you Woody, that is a great compliment, thank you sir. This is really alot of fun, and a learning experience for sure. Today I am about to embark on some more poly applications, going to lay down a 6 inch strip of 1708 on the stringer bottoms, where they attach to the hull. I have found a little separation of the the woven rovin in a couple spots. Never hurts to be over cautious. Also going to try and resin coat the deck boards as well. Got to keep plugging away. Thanks everyone and tight lines to you all.

 

[Quantumn]

Btw, I am just jones'n to start working on the transom, lol. Maybe the fumes have gotten to me. Should be interesting to build, going to replicate the OEM setup with the 2 x 6 cross support. Someday soon..... maybe in 3 days......maybe.

 

[Woodonglass]

Make sure and grind down the old glass and wipe it all down with acetone before you lay down the new stuff.

 

[Quantumn]

Good call WOG, acetone is my friend, though it stinks to high heaven. My layup from last night is still a little tacky, so should be ready to poly roll. :eagerness:

 

[gm280]

Quantumn, some very nice work there and you honestly make it look easy. However, I know what it truly takes to do such work and it is neither easy or quick to do to make it look so good like you've accomplished. I am still a little sick, but I am watching the progress on a few project boats as well... :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

Thanks GM280, my previous career field was in car audio installations, which included alot of fiberglass panel construction and wood working projects. Though restoring this gull-wing is a much larger project. Hope you get better soon sir.

 

[Quantumn]

So a few updates with pictures. Yesterday was productive as I found the time to get the last of the stringers layered with 1708. Whoever created 1708 needs to be on my christmas card list as this fabric is the cats meow:



All layered up and in curing phase. Also mixed up 16 oz of pb and applied to the tail end of the stringers. I believe they intended this to have a i/o hence why it is so wide at the back end. Possibly to provide motor mounts, who knows:



I had heard that it was possible to mix up pb before hand and only add mekp when it was time to use it. So before dinner, I mixed up some 1/4" chop strand and resin and let it sit for about an hour. After dinner, upon looking at the resin and chop strand, the chop strand had completely dissolved. Ok, so just add some more chop strand and cabosil then mix in the mekp. NOTE TO SELF: Don't do this again, does not work so well. lesson learned, lol:



Who say's boat rebuilding is not fun? Really enjoying the process, and yes, this is another plug for PPE:



More updates later on today, stay tuned everyone. Hopefully my boss will allow me to work a half/day today as I have a "boatload" of work to accomplish.:fish2:

 

[Quantumn]

Today I plan to start sealing up the deck boards and I have a few questions for all you Iboat experts. First, is it necessary to csm the bottom side of the panels? I realize that I will need to seal them up with resin but not sure about csm on the bottom. Also when i mix up the laminating polyester resin, would I mix it at just under 1% or is it recommended to add a little acetone? I take it that what I am looking for, is the resin to actually absorb into the 3/4" acx plywood. Should I sand the bottom half before applying the resin?
Sorry for all the questions, but I would like to move in the right direction. Thanks everyone for your advice, you all rock!!! :rockon:

 

[Woodonglass]

I like to sand the plywood with 80 grit first the wipe it down with acetone. I then fill any and all voids on the flats and on the edges with PB. I then mix the resin @ 1% MEKP and put a heavy coat of resin on. I put the plastic bowl of resin in a cake pan filled with hot water to get the viscosity as thin as I can and then I add the MEKP and stir for about 45 secs. and then roll it on. The thin mix and the 1% allows it to penetrate better and longer into the wood. You have to remember with plywood on the flats it can only penetrate about 1/16" due to the glue barrier but the edges is where you really need to pay close attention and really soak it in. Once it tacks up in about 45 mins to an hour you MUST put down a layer of CSM. Polyester resin without CSM is pretty much useless. When it cures it will get hard and then when it flexes it will crack open and allow water to penetrate. This is because the resin has no "Binders" in it. The CSM acts as the binders because the Resin contains Styrene and the Styrene is what Melts the CSM (as you found out with your PB) and this binds the resin and the CSM together and keeps it from breaking apart and forms the waterproof barrier over the wood. Fiberglassing 101!!!Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[sphelps]

Nice Spider Man pose ! :spider:

 

[Quantumn]

Thanks WOG, that was exactly the direction I was looking for. Knowing the trick of warming up the poly before mixing will work out great, especially when wetting out the 1708/csm. Also applying csm on the underside was always the plan, I just wondered what would be the outcome without material. I guess you can teach an ole dog new tricks.