Mid 1960's OMC Evinrude gull-wing, a work in progress.

[Quantumn]

I have planned from the inception to try and grind/cut outside on our garage landing, but mother nature does not want to cooperate so far this year, current picture of our lovely weather today:smow::


I've been needing to utilize my burn barrel for the past week, but rain and snow has prevented that. Some day I will be able to get rid of some of this scrap that I've acquired over the past month.
Also, PPE is a necessity for this type of project. I picked up a 3m 6200 respirator with 2097 filters. I will need to pick up some [FONT=Arial, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, sans-serif]organic vapor filters once I start the acetone cleaning and such. Also having a tyvec suit is a must. I am using a heavy-duty chemical splash coverall. Almost makes me feel as if I am wearing a full-body rain suit. [/FONT]



At the start of this project, I noticed my hands were taking a tremendous beating by all the slivers/cuts/abrasions so I picked up a pair of kevlar lined work gloves and that has helped to keep my blood on the inside :encouragement:

 

[gm280]

I have planned from the inception to try and grind/cut outside on our garage landing, but mother nature does not want to cooperate so far this year, current picture of our lovely weather today:smow::


I've been needing to utilize my burn barrel for the past week, but rain and snow has prevented that. Some day I will be able to get rid of some of this scrap that I've acquired over the past month.
Also, PPE is a necessity for this type of project. I picked up a 3m 6200 respirator with 2097 filters. I will need to pick up some [FONT=Arial, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, sans-serif]organic vapor filters once I start the acetone cleaning and such. Also having a tyvec suit is a must. I am using a heavy-duty chemical splash coverall. Almost makes me feel as if I am wearing a full-body rain suit. [/FONT]



At the start of this project, I noticed my hands were taking a tremendous beating by all the slivers/cuts/abrasions so I picked up a pair of kevlar lined work gloves and that has helped to keep my blood on the inside :encouragement:

Well besides looking similar to a banana, it looks like you got the proper PPE gear. And posting such things is a great way to show others wanting to do their boat project as well. WOW, that weather is not my style. BUT, with it being that cold yet, that could help you from cooking inside the PPE equipment also as you proceed on the worst part of any boat project. That being the hull grinding. But I have total confidence in your abilities and attitude. Go get me... :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

As a quick update on today's progress. I was able to remove the floor and foam below the console. Made a quick make-shift support stand that would extend to the center of the hull for supporting the weight of the console:


And a quick picture showing the current status in which grinding is very close to commencing, ughh:


As a side note, that foam that is on the right hand side was left in place only for the purpose of climbing in and out of the shell. It will be removed once grinding begins.

 

[sphelps]

I could see myself slipping and sliding right down the hill into the lake ! :lol:
Time to make some inside itchy snow ! :snowman:
I 'd send ya some of our Florida sunshine if I could ... We have had temps in the 90"s here and there ....

 

[Quantumn]

Sorry for the delay in posting and showing progress. Real life popped up and had to tend to some business. While work was dormant for a couple weeks on the restoration, many thoughts and plans were carefully thought out with not really anything different than the original intentions. This past weekend I was able to pick up some timber for the framing, floor and transom replacement.

4 sheets of 7-ply acx for flooring and braces, 1 sheet of Marine grade 7-ply for the transom, (all 3/4 inch), 1 sheet of 1/4" acx for crossmembers that will support the stainless steel nut plates. Should get me moving in the right direction.
And bless my Skippers heart, she felt that I needed another power tool to help the process, though I know there is other motives involved with this:



As I am about to cut a few sections of the planking, I have some questions that I would like to ask about the substructure, stay tuned and I will hit those up. Thanks for the look and help, it is much appreciated.

 

[gm280]

Ha, you take any and all tools as the come regardless the reason. Power tools...arr arr arr :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

Started cutting some of the flooring/braces today. I have come to the realization that either I get bigger tools, or I am relegated to making things work the hard way, lol. This here photo is how I was able to cut the sub-floor support braces.



My father gave me this radial arm saw, and while it is capable of ripping wood, 4x8 3/4" acx would too much of a hassle, not to mention probably extremely dangerous with my current shop set up.



So we got the supports cut and tossed into place, temporarily. I will need to consider what I will do for the console support legs, but that is a few days down the road.


One last shot to show cramped working conditions atm as we have a weather front passing thru our town.



More to come, any suggestions are welcome and encouraged. Stay tuned and tight lines to all...

 

[gm280]

Progress! It is moving along. I have to ask for my understanding. Are your cross supports going to lay flat like you have them pictured? I was wondering because that isn't the strongest position for the maximum support. Standing them upright will yield the most support capable from those ply strips... But then I don't know how your old ones were installed... Anyway, I understand your cramped working area. I know how that can be. I use to work from a two car garage but only had enough room for ONE power tool at a time. So I would cut with one tool and then put it away and get out another tool to do some other type cut... So I know exactly what you are going through. Also I too own a radial arm saw. While it is great for dados and cross cuts, it isn't my first choice for cutting plywood strips. I do own a 18volt Dewalt 5" or 6" circular saw that I cut large sheet goods down to size and then run them across my table saw. I can cut 4 x 8 sheet goods, it really takes some serious watching to be safe. So I usually cut them down to more manageable sizes. But great to see you moving along with your project... :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

Progress! It is moving along. I have to ask for my understanding. Are your cross supports going to lay flat like you have them pictured? I was wondering because that isn't the strongest position for the maximum support. Standing them upright will yield the most support capable from those ply strips... But then I don't know how your old ones were installed...

Excellent question GM, and your assumptions are on par with boat building. The way evinrude designed their boats, especially the sport 16, was to use massive stringers for longitude support, then heavy density foam for overall foundation strength. These 4 1/2 inch cross-members are primarily for seat/console support which house stainless steel tee-nuts. I have wondered if I should install cross/members or bulk head supports. The original floor was only 1/4" wood with 1/4" solid epoxy resin for a total of 1/2" for support. Hence we are using 3/4" with 1708/csm/poly, that should provide excellent support for the decking. My friends tell me to cut the size down to 1/2" to save weight/money, but in my grand scheme of things, this needs to be solid. Thanks for the input GM.

 

[Quantumn]

So I finally took the plunge and ordered all my needed glassing supplies, hopefully it shall arrive by early next week. The price for the poly resin is extensive considering the shipping and hazmat charges, but needs to be ordered. Hopefully I will have all the needed supplies, time will tell.
While we wait for the supplies to arrive, I have been able to make some more progress on the hull, grinding that is. For those of you who have never done this, its not recommended to forgo PPE (personal protection equipment). Even with multiple fans, open double garage doors, windows and filtration, this is a nasty job.

Biggest issue I had was my goggles would fog up every 30 seconds to the point of no vision, grrrrrr. But ingenuity prevails and after using some rain-x to coat the lenses, everything worked out just fine. Here is a picture of the grinded down stern which is now ready for the transom to be installed, once it is built, of course.

Also, I was able to manhandle and cut the decking. This was a chore only because of the weight and size of the panels. I still need to transfer the front gullwing hull impressions for the front, but that will happen once the back panels have been pb'd to the hull sides.

Rock on everyone, she is coming along. (Btw, I have named the boat, but will not have the ceremony til next season)

 

[gm280]

ALLright Quantumn, you are certainly moving along. The transom grind look great. Oh yes that fiberglass grinding is the worst job in any refurbish boat project. And Anybody that has ever grinded fiberglass knows exactly what you're talking about with both the dust and the goggles steaming up. I used a pretty good fitting goggles instead of safety glasses and didn't have as much steaming up after switching to the goggles. Glad you emphasize the PPE equipment. Anybody trying this type project that thinks they can get away without such PPE, is seriously asking for some medical health problems. And yes between the regular shipping costs AND the hazmat fees, that polyester resin gets pretty pricey. I was able to cut into the shipping costs by having my order shipped to a freight trucking firm and I picked it up there saving almost $120 dollars. Well worth the 15 mile trip for me... Well keep up the great work, it look very good... :thumb:

 

[Mark72233]

Quantumn, looking good and echo gm280on both counts. Smart move wearing the gear and check into the shipping company. I live in the Panhandle of Florida and had the supplies delivered from Tampa Florida to Dothan Alabama about an hour north of me. Saved a bunch on shipping. Made the 2 hour round trip more then worth the trouble. Good luck with the project, I will be out here watching. :spy:eep:

 

[Quantumn]

Thanks for the comments GM280 and Mark72/233. I strongly believe ppe should be emphasized so that the health of all parties involved remains vertical. I finally received my shipment from US Composites yesterday and should be moving forward later on today once I get home from work

. Not alot of progress I can post atm since my camera is at home and will need to upload a few photo's. But pictures are always good to see, so I have just a couple to post now.

My toughest part of this restoration is going to be tracing/copying the deck bow curves of the front gullwings, should be interesting at best but I am sure it will be just fine. Some times you just have to git r' done. This picture is about a week old and the lips have been cut and fully grinded down to clean fiberglass. And in hind sight, we moved to 3/4" decking so that should almost cover these up completely, or so I am thinking, lol.



In my boredom of waiting for glassing supplies to arrive, I was sidetracked into other small projects, restoration orientated though. The removable seats have brackets that were painted and just ugly.



Nothing a good sandblasting couldn't take care, they seem to have a new life, considering they are oem from 1964.



Also the hull looked like absolute poo, many years of neglected care, old paint and scuffs. So I figured I would attempt to see what can be done to clean it up a bit as well.


A little elbow grease and a few cold ones, and she cleaned up fairly nice as well.



Til later on today everyone, peace out and thanks for taking a look.

 

[gm280]

Quantum, I like your progress and enthusiasm. Attitude IS a very important component to do these rebuilds, and you have the perfect attitude as well. I like the sandblasting of the parts. I do that myself. Amazing how so many tools come into play when you are refurbishing a boat project. Once I finish my boat project, I have plans to build a larger box sandblaster that you can put your arms into to sand blast items. Presently I use a large cardboard box with a light and coverall suit. And I still get sand in place I can't mention here... I do like our effort on the hull too. Keep posting, I'm watching and pleased with your results too... :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

Thanks GM, attitude can come in many different varieties, somedays its positive and alot of work gets done, other days, I will just stare at the project and ponder. Still on my goal of splashing this 'Rude by the 4th of july. Cosmetics will be done over the winter months and should be alot of fun. Speaking of winter months, our weather up here in the upper peninsula of michigan has be unseasonably cold the past couple of weeks. This morning we actually had frost and the high temperature is expected to be in the low 50's, brrrr. Not ideal for glassing. So this gave the opportunity to gather supplies and a direction.

For transom work/clampage:


A makeshift stand to hold 100yds of 10" wide 1708. Able to relocate this stand into the boat to facilitate cutting tabs.


I am still contemplating how to ensure easy pouring of poly resin out of a 5 gallon pail. I really like the ingenuity of some Iboat members and might copy-cat some of your designs, but I have an idea for something a little more simpler. Just need to hit up true-value and see if my plan will work. Updates coming soon.

 

[sphelps]

Wow ! the hull cleaned up really nice ! Looks like ya painted it !

 

[gm280]

Quantumn, I like your little 1708 holder. Nice little setup. I have built a 5 gallon bucket pouring stand and while it looks complicated, it really was made out a few 2 x 4s and a 6" piece of treaded on both ends 1/2" pipe and 1/2" pipe flanges, a couple flat washers and a few cotter pins... Of course glue and a few wood screws as well. It makes pouring poly extremely easy and very precise too. Because the handle is s easy to pour the poly to exact level while holding the container... I think a full bucket of poly weighs around 65 pounds. I couldn't maneuver a 65 pound bucket and pour the proper amounts at the same time... So this is my pouring device.


Yes I did round over the edges with a router and chamfer the corners too, but that is just me. The pouring device can be used without all that doing as well. If you are interested in how I built it, visit my boat project where there are a lot of other pictures of how it was built. You actually have al the needed tools already. And anything can be used for the tilt handle. My neighbor thought it was on ball bearings because how easy I poured the poly... Of course knowing you, you and seeing your abilities, you will make something even better... :thumb:

 

[Quantumn]

Wow ! the hull cleaned up really nice ! Looks like ya painted it !

Thanks Sphelps, a little bit of elbow grease, wetsand and hand polish was able to clean it up a bit. I have a 7" polisher on order which should save a few sweat sessions.



Thanks for the design GM280, its sort of ironic you posted your pictures. They match exactly the picture I printed out just a few hours ago. :rockon: I have another plan in mind, but if that falls through, I should be following your plans. I really like that setup.

I do have a question, if someone with more experience could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome. With the original design of the 1964 Evinrude gull-wing, the deck was only tabbed into the sides of the hull and no support at all on either side besides floatation foam. Granted they most likely used heavy fabrication machinery to accomplish this, in which I do not have access to those. So my thought process is to utilize 2" foamular insulation panel, cut into long strips and basically titebond III them into the sides to provide support for the deck and also give me a slight angle from the sides to the center of the bilge channel for upper-deck drainage purposes. Pros and Cons? Thanks everyone for the outstanding support and knowledgebase.

 

[Quantumn]

To clarify my thought process. Here is a picture of the inside hull showing the outside edge. There was never any support for the deck except for tabbing it into the side hull:


My thoughts are that I need to provide a temporary support before I tab in the deck, and using 2" wide strips of foamular, I can provide that support initially on the side for the deck:
Good or bad idea?

 

[gm280]

Quantum, I had a similar situation with my little tri-hull boat project. However, the original design actually had a wooden trip run down the sides. I removed them when removing everything rotted and even grinded the areas down to clean fiberglass. So I took plywood and made new strips and PBed them in place to offer support for the flooring. So if the foam will give you that capability to hold the floor solid, go for it... Once you tab in the floor the foam won't be needed for support. Especially if you put floatation foam under the floor as well... At the rate you are going, you will finish your boat project before me. And I have only been working on mine for a few years too... :facepalm: