Just one of many ss 160 redo,s.

[Watermann]

Yeah I strip em bare before going at it. :eyebrows:

 

[82rude]

No,it has to do with previous owners putting on silicone and i believe bedliner or undercoating.

 

[82rude]

Went across the river(border) and got the fasco today.Ive got a persistant trouble spot on the very back quarter of my f150,and im going to try using the fasco to fix it from leaching rust.In theory it should work.Ive tried everything short of cutting it out and replacing it but this might just work.Weather is suppose to start getting crappy so im not sure how soon i will get to try it on the boat.Canada was invaded today i believe, the lineup at the border was a couple of miles long!

 

[82rude]

Tried the fasco in the gun today ,it worked for about 5 seconds then not so good.Putting it on with a brush is pretty fast actually.A gallon is plenty of sealer to do inside and out!Mine is the clear version and if i had to do it again id get a minor tint for the simple fact that wihen you step on it because you dont see it,it can almost kill you,lol

 

[SHSU]

Tried the fasco in the gun today ,it worked for about 5 seconds then not so good.Putting it on with a brush is pretty fast actually.A gallon is plenty of sealer to do inside and out!Mine is the clear version and if i had to do it again id get a minor tint for the simple fact that wihen you step on it because you dont see it,it can almost kill you,lol

Oh!!!! Someone to ask questions too!!!!!! So what do you think about it (application/work time/final finish)? How much did you mix up?

 

[82rude]

SHSU i used a brush.,mixed up about 2 1/2 cups worth.Spreads easily,on the day i did it ,it took hours to start to really set (humidity maybe).They say 15 to 30 work time so i only mixed enough for that expectation.After i go for blood tests today im going to look at it as yesterday i had the boat covered for the weekly monsoon.The picture here shows the gluvit on the rivets in a yellowish tint and the fasco clear.

 

[82rude]

I went to the local dollar store and bought 2 sets of betty crocker measuring cups to use with the fasco and medium sized plastic containers to mix it in.Total cost about 5 dollars.Why 2 sets you ask?This way you dont mix one material with the other in their original containers.Both containers were pretty full when opened but theres enough room to just leave the cups in their respective containers.The closest i can compare the fasco to is think of aunt Jemima syrup!

 

[Watermann]

For future reference putting gluvit or fasco on the rib rivets is a waste of time/product, you can't get the goop around the rivet body where water would penetrate the hull. Seams, keel and the rivets in the field holding on the strakes are the only rivets it's effective on. Yeah I slathered that stuff all over my first boat resto and somebody mentioned it to me. :lol:

 

[SHSU]

SHSU i used a brush.,mixed up about 2 1/2 cups worth.Spreads easily,on the day i did it ,it took hours to start to really set (humidity maybe).They say 15 to 30 work time so i only mixed enough for that expectation.After i go for blood tests today im going to look at it as yesterday i had the boat covered for the weekly monsoon.The picture here shows the gluvit on the rivets in a yellowish tint and the fasco clear.

Appreciate the firsthand knowledge!!!!

As for the setup up time, I read somewhere it would start to gel and then wouldn?t get hard for a couple hours. It allows a second coat to be added while its still slightly tacky for chemical bonding. What was the temp and humidity you applied it in?

So the 2 ? cups (guessing of each part) how many rivets were you able to do?

Can I get a pic of the instructions they provided? I have looked (even on their website) and haven?t been able to find their directions.

I went to the local dollar store and bought 2 sets of betty crocker measuring cups to use with the fasco and medium sized plastic containers to mix it in.Total cost about 5 dollars.Why 2 sets you ask?This way you dont mix one material with the other in their original containers.Both containers were pretty full when opened but theres enough room to just leave the cups in their respective containers.The closest i can compare the fasco to is think of aunt Jemima syrup!

I will be storing that away in my memory bank for when I use it. That is smart!!! As for its thickness, I have read that you can heat epoxy up a little to decrease its viscosity, but it will cause it to kick early. When I get it, I will have to do a little test piece to see how easy/difficult it will be to manipulate.

For future reference putting gluvit or fasco on the rib rivets is a waste of time/product, you can't get the goop around the rivet body where water would penetrate the hull. Seams, keel and the rivets in the field holding on the strakes are the only rivets it's effective on. Yeah I slathered that stuff all over my first boat resto and somebody mentioned it to me. :lol:

That is some good info. Makes sense, but sometimes even though in real world it won?t necessarily help, in my dream world I feel like it will make it invincible!!!! LOL

 

[82rude]

Not sure if you could see in any of my pic but my seams have a molasses colored whatever slathered all over.Any of you other starcraft guys have that also? My seams are 100 percent tight.

 

[SHSU]

Not sure if you could see in any of my pic but my seams have a molasses colored whatever slathered all over.Any of you other starcraft guys have that also? My seams are 100 percent tight.

Yep, I have it as well. Especially in the bow area and corners of my stern. Think its factory

 

[82rude]

Started to put some of the floor in.I measured exactly on what was in there for the wood.So you can imagine my shock when the wood seemed short in width.DUH! i forgot about the side panels i have to rebuild and the bottom pieces of l shaped alum that screws in the floor .All is good.So i gots to go buy a sheet of 1/2 spruce 4x8 ply.Shsu sorry 3 cups total and you can so a lot!As for the rivets that Watermann said i didnt have to do if i didnt do them they would of felt left out and maybe got revenge on me by poping out later,lol.Better safe than sorry

 

[SHSU]

Started to put some of the floor in.I measured exactly on what was in there for the wood.So you can imagine my shock when the wood seemed short in width.DUH! i forgot about the side panels i have to rebuild and the bottom pieces of l shaped alum that screws in the floor .All is good.So i gots to go buy a sheet of 1/2 spruce 4x8 ply.Shsu sorry 3 cups total and you can so a lot!As for the rivets that Watermann said i didnt have to do if i didnt do them they would of felt left out and maybe got revenge on me by poping out later,lol.Better safe than sorry

Nice work, looks like you will be on the water here pretty quick!! What are your final width measurement for your floor pieces? What size rivets you plan on using?

 

[82rude]

Each piece was 61 wide by 48 long.The 2 channels you see were put back in with 3/16 blind rivets.Im going to screw the floor not rivet for easy removal if need be.Ive got a severe case of laziness today though .Still have to clean and fasco the underside also.

 

[SHSU]

Each piece was 61 wide by 48 long.The 2 channels you see were put back in with 3/16 blind rivets.Im going to screw the floor not rivet for easy removal if need be.Ive got a severe case of laziness today though .Still have to clean and fasco the underside also.

You sure you want to screw? They may back out over time. Drilling out a blind rivet is as easy as unscrewing it and it won't back out

 

[Watermann]

Not sure if you could see in any of my pic but my seams have a molasses colored whatever slathered all over.Any of you other starcraft guys have that also? My seams are 100 percent tight.

Yeah both my SC boats have had that reddish brown sealer from the factory. We refer to it as SC smeg. :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

Each piece was 61 wide by 48 long.The 2 channels you see were put back in with 3/16 blind rivets.Im going to screw the floor not rivet for easy removal if need be.Ive got a severe case of laziness today though .Still have to clean and fasco the underside also.

I'm gonna chime in with the other guys. My recommendation is to not screw the deck down. Use rivets instead.

My Kingfisher had the deck screwed in place by the PO using regular deck screws when I bought the boat 2+ years ago. While trying to remove the rusted screws, they either stripped or refused to budge. I ended up grinding the heads off the screws. But that didn't help! The screw shanks remained in place even without the heads attached which kept the deck tight to the boat. I had one bear of time getting that deck up.

Then! I reused the deck wood (which was still okay) but stupidly used stainless steel square drive deck screws to secure it to the boat. I figured like you did; that later on when I actually replaced the deck wood that I'd be able to unscrew the deck easily. NOT!

I'm in the middle of replacing the deck with new wood right now and when I tried to unscrew the stainless deck screws, the majority of the heads stripped and I ended up having to use a hole saw to cut around them, then got the deck out. After that, I had to go back and individually remove each stumped up screw and plywood circle. What a major PITA. :mad-new:

It would have been far simpler to rivet the deck down and drill the rivets out when it came time to replace the wood. Lesson learned.

I'll be riveting my new deck down... soon!

 

[82rude]

Will take riveting under advisement.SHSU heres the directions.

 

[SHSU]

Will take riveting under advisement.SHSU heres the directions.

Thanks!!! That is a huge help.

 

[82rude]

Finished the side panels.Going to buy some nice trim to hide my lousy cutting.Wood hates me!Use the oil for looks and sealing ,it works great.Ive used it before on other wood on boats and it lasts a long time .That can was from the 60,s or later.Had to stop working in the boat as it was getting so hot in their the cannibals down the road kept flipping me over every half hour,lol.