Re: hull extension in progress with picks
Re: hull extension in progress with picks
Previously I had read pages 126-135 of this great thread. Last night I finally got around to starting from page 1. I made it up to page 26 and want to add some comments regarding the work that was being done back then.
First, because it is really important...health and safety. While proper protection from inhalation of dust was addressed, when it comes to fumes the only thing I saw was a reference to the headache or high in reaction to breathing fumes. Especially with all that acetone this is no laughing matter. To all who will be working with resins, acetone, etc I strongly suggest you get and read the MSDS for each material you plan to use. Proper protection is as important as anything else and when scheduling your project you really must consider how you'll ensure your protection. My concern in not because I'm some namby pamby law enforcer but from over 20 yrs working as a building contractor and lots of experience with fiberglass and resins. (surfboard making, boat repairs and projects, chemist for a large resin mfg)
2nd, all that grinding...gosh, borrow a tip from the cabinet shops and use a dust collection system. A flexible hose attached to a air powered sander would be ideal. Anyway, when working with glass and foam, etc, you can expect a fair amount of sanding or grinding. A method to contain and remove the dust is a great thing. It really cuts down on the workload and makes the project more enjoyable because walking into a dust covered workspace is no fun. I was surprised Oops didn't get a cold until several months into his project. Breathing that crap--even when wearing a good mask like his--and that amount of exposure will attack the body. No eye infection is surprising to me.
Oh yeah...there is a real risk of fire hazard with too much dust in the air or chemical fumes. Be careful and think when using power tools in these conditions especially inside a space like a boat hull where fumes settle and have a high concentration.
Capping the stringers...I won't get into how important that is but I do have some suggestions: use cloth laid out on the bias. As mentioned, the strands do not like to bend. The trick is to get those strands to lay out on a 45 as they make the corner. Bi axial doesn't work so well but cloth is better here.
Many suggestions were made, here's another...apply a thick bead of PL400 down the cap to bed the cloth or even a matting. The PL is pliable and sticky. The fiberglass won't have to bend so tightly and will adhere in place.
For fairing, as WiseOne mentioned, the only best way is long sanding board. I've faired a lot of boats (including racing sail boats) and a lot more surfboards, and this is the way to fair.
Be sure to give yourself a lot of elbow room so you can stand back and eye the line. Those lights in Oop's new shop were exactly the right height and I saw that right away in the first pic he posted of the boat's new home. That low angle light really helps to see any imperfections in a fair line.
This isn't a dig at Oops or anyone. I think this is a great thread and I really appreciate the text and pics and suggestions found here. Now that I'm hooked (like everybody else it seems) I find it addicting. Thank you, Oops and everyone.
