Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration SPLASHED!

[Friscoboater]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

What about cardboard tubes!! (Christmas Wrapping Paper). If they get wet they will dissolve in time. Fill the ends with Toilet paper to keep the foam out. Water will dissolve the TP.

Hey I'm a redneck Okie. What do I KNOW???

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Now there is a good idea! You have me thinking.

 

[dorelse]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well...why not just coat the rope with grease/wax so it will slide out without causing damage?

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I don't think so, but that just is what foam does. It fills everything.

well I don't know how they did it but in my boat the foam was just spotted in here and there(piles) they poured it in through 1-1/2" holes in the deck,but what I do not know is how they kept it in a pile and tight too the underside of the deck.(from what I have read on installing foam it spreads all over) However this system worked very well as when I removed foam there was very little that was wet! and the boat is 22yrs+ old.
Perhaps if they had put in limber holes in the stringers at transom rot would not have occurred, but then there is condensation and also depends on climate you live in!!

 

[superpop]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

How about getting some 1/2" PEX tubing from Home depot, (the flexible tubing) cut your limber holes 5/8" with the tubes running the length of the stringers on both sides of each stringer. Grease em up good before you poor the foam and once the foam is firm, just slide them out. All of this is probably overkill anyway since you are sealing everything up and I doubt you are ever going to leave it outside uncovered for months at a time. That is how rot happens.

 

[Rellik546]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

What if u made a mold, for each cavity lay down some sort of wood, cardboard rope on the hull to create channels. then lay down a big sheet of plastic(something that will cover the hull and up and over the stringers), push it in tight around stringer hull and channels. Then pure the foam over the plastic. Let it cure. Once cured pull the plastic with foam out of the area u filled. Remove the plastic from the foam. Remove whatever u used to make Ur channels. Then place the perfectly fit foam into place. You could use small dabs of foam to adhere it to the hull if u wanted just make sure it's not enough to expand into the channels u created. Or just use some sort of glue that won't break down the foam.

I have no experience with foam. So with that said. Im not 100% sure that said foam will separate easily from said plastic, maybe it doesn't. In that case coat plastic with wax or non stick cooking oil? If it doesn't stick I'm not sure it would be 100% closed cell once u remove the plastic. I would thing it would be as u poured the foam directly on top of it.


I plan on at least attempting an experiment on my boat when I get to this stage of reconstruction. If u choose not to do it this way I'll post my results either way, as in the future more people will read Ur thread than mine. Or u could simply do a quick experiment using a small cup and whatever plastic u decide to use. Just make sure u can get it large enough to cover the area u will need for in the boat. Good luck! I'm sure u will figure something out

 

[clockwatcher]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Lining the section with plastic and making molds would be easy to do and it's certainly a viable option. But you'll lose the adhesion advantage of the foam. It helps hold everything together and it sticks like crazy. People say 2lb foam isn't structural. But as difficult as it is to remove, it's got to play some part.

I like the cardboard tube idea. The rope would work too, even if you left it in it would act as a wick. Gravity would draw it out. I think the water would only cause damage if it was trapped for years on end. The best thing to do is build the compartments airtight.

Check out the adhesive that Proline used to bond top to hull.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Foam board. You don't need the structure.

This makes me smile
http://picasaweb.google.com/pacerdude/EntireDeckReplacement89Celebrity224se#5305852018165355202

Full album
http://picasaweb.google.com/pacerdude/EntireDeckReplacement89Celebrity224se#

 

[DanielR]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

The idea of drainage in the foam under the deck is way over complicated.
Making boat last longer is always our goal, I get it.
When water is found under the deck in sealed compartment it originates from lack of maintenance or boat being built by hang over staff on friday afternoon.
It my case it would be a combination of both. Deck wasnt sealed at all, painted only and adhesive sprayed to top it with the carpet. Previous owner didnt have cover on the boat either...

That being said. It not the condensation that plays major role in rotting everything under the deck. There is no reason to go out of the way to design system that will take care of it all.
Leaving opened hole in the stringer to let the water out is pointless. It is a closed cell foam. If it saturates with water it wont be because of the condensation but screw in the deck that wasnt sealed. By the time water gets to the drain hole in the stringer, whole compartment will be wet already. And we know it will never dry out by itself.

If you truly want to be able to have dry hull, use seacast/nida instead of wood and dont fill your boat with foam. Few inspection hatches in the deck for seasonal checkups and you are good.
Sealed compartment filled with foam is good enough for me.

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I agree with EZ. You don't need the structure especially since you (Jay) are doing such a precise job on the stringers. If you seal up the uderside of the deck very well there is no way that a big wave coming over board will sink your boat. Just make sure all areas under the deck are sealed up tight. You can still use limber holes but where the limber holes empty into the bilge just insert plugs in them when you go out. That way if you would happen to catch a wave over the gunwale the water stays on top of the deck, runs into the bilge, bilge is sealed so the bilge pump takes care of it. When you are done for the day pull the plugs out of the limber holes and any water will run out. The air trappped under the deck is better flaotation then any foam would be. Besides if you get that big of a wave to sink your boat then there is something else wrong...if you know what I mean.

 

[oops!]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

hey frisco......i was asked to look in.....how ya doin bud......
i dont have much time to read up on what is happening.

(boat show is 7 days away and i have to install the motors and air conditioning system on a regal 30 footer with twin bravo 3's .......and we dont have the drives here yet !!!!! )

if i guess correctly from skimming the last few posts....you are worried about totally foaming the ray.

the rays use VE resins in that year and the hull is very structurally strong......so the foam for the hull stregnth is not needed as much.
it looks like you have installed adiquate flotation.....so deck it bud and no worries.

as for drainage......just knock holes in all the proper limber spots......and leave your self a round inspection hatch, for each side, forward (under the seat or other protected area).
this inspection hatch will allow air flow over the foam and it will keep any condensation from becoming an issue

if i miss guessed on the question....pm mw with any direct issues and the link ill get to it asap.

cheers bud
oops

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

hey frisco......i was asked to look in.....how ya doin bud......
i dont have much time to read up on what is happening.

(boat show is 7 days away and i have to install the motors and air conditioning system on a regal 30 footer with twin bravo 3's .......and we dont have the drives here yet !!!!! )

if i guess correctly from skimming the last few posts....you are worried about totally foaming the ray.

the rays use VE resins in that year and the hull is very structurally strong......so the foam for the hull stregnth is not needed as much.
it looks like you have installed adiquate flotation.....so deck it bud and no worries.

as for drainage......just knock holes in all the proper limber spots......and leave your self a round inspection hatch, for each side, forward (under the seat or other protected area).
this inspection hatch will allow air flow over the foam and it will keep any condensation from becoming an issue

if i miss guessed on the question....pm mw with any direct issues and the link ill get to it asap.

cheers bud
oops

Good luck with the engines man. I know what it is like to have a deadline like that. You pretty much hit it on the head. I just wanted to know how to get the drainage right without clogging them up with foam. The access holes are a great idea, and I think I light go with that. Thanks for the help.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Got a question here. Does anyone know the best way to lay the 1708? Does the stitching go with the stringer or across it?

 

[Decker83]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Hey Friscoboater
Thanks for looking at my thread. I have read yours from the start and looked at all your youtube. Want to say thanks for your time and efforts on the pics and youtube. I have learned more watching you than any other thtead.
I think OOPS has some good info on the hull extension thread with the 1708 and stringers.
Looking forward to seeing more of your thread.

 

[DanielR]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Got a question here. Does anyone know the best way to lay the 1708? Does the stitching go with the stringer or across it?

I found wetting area first helps csm on 1708 stick better.
Pressing mat with hands conforms to the shape. I do minor adjustments/cuts.
Then, tab it with the resin.
I move to another area to let the resin soak meanwhile this way I'm not over saturating fibers.
And finally touch it up to get that transparency through the glass.

Im laying 1708 with stitching across the stringers, havent tried it along the tringers. I dont know how that will change way of conforming to shape.

 

[pcmpete]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I put the stitching at 45 degrees so when go go up one side of the stringer and down the other there is a 90 degree difference, this 'should' provide better torque strength (less twisting)

 

[vandentr]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Frisco, some random thoughts:

What about some sort of a corrugated plastic between the hull and the foam?



Also, what if you took a 10' length of 1/2" pvc, perforated it down a centerline with 1/4" holes, and then ran it fore and aft alongside the stringers with the perforations facing down and 90'd it into the bilge? At that point you could rig some sort of a connection to hook up to a shop vac and then suck any collected water out at the end of the season or whenever needed.

All of this might be major overkill, but I know what it's like when it's your "baby" and you want everything 100% perfect!



-TVB

 

[clockwatcher]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

If your cloth is like mine the 45/45 weave will be the same either way. The stitching is just holding the weave together along with the csm. I'd cut it off the roll and lay it across the stringers. I think the rule is to overlap the ends 6" if necessary. I found it helpful to keep my scissors close by just in case I needed to make small adjustments while wetting out the cloth.

 

[boaterinsd]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Hey Friscoboater
Thanks for looking at my thread. I have read yours from the start and looked at all your youtube. Want to say thanks for your time and efforts on the pics and youtube. I have learned more watching you than any other thtead.
I think OOPS has some good info on the hull extension thread with the 1708 and stringers.
Looking forward to seeing more of your thread.

I totally agree with you Decker, Frisco's videos on youtube and the pictures here are top notch. Thanks for taking the time to document the process. I have myself now a MAJOR problem child (boat) too with rott coming up most of the deck from under the fuel cell. What is the plan to put in new foam? I allmost think mine was pored in at a liquid at the time of its build. I subscribed to your thread to stay up to date. I have one question, whats PL, you mention it on the video clips?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I have one question, whats PL, you mention it on the video clips?

PL Premium construction adhesive. Sold at the home centers the same place where you'd find Liquid Nails.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl...VANCED-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

PL Premium construction adhesive. Sold at the home centers the same place where you'd find Liquid Nails.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl...VANCED-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

What he said. It is in a yellow and red tube.

Sorry for being absent this weekend, but I am putting in some hours working on the boat. I added a bunch of bulkheads yesterday and everything is at deck height. I have lots of filleting to do today.