Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

The CSM stitched to the back of 1708 biax is approx. .75 oz. A lot of people, including me, think this is not adequate for creating a good bond, especially on the first layer attached to the wood and glass hull. I still and will always recommend the added CSM to ensure a proper bond. Having said that, I have no documented evidence that NOT using it leads to de-lamination or failure of the bond. Like I said, Just my preference and lot of others. OOPS was a BIG proponent of doing it this way. I believe he picked this up from ondarvr. As always, It's your boat and your choice. I'm just an...

I hear you Wood.

I actually wet back and read Oops thread again just to make sure I was correct in what I remember... (I am getting older) and oops did use CSM to tab the stringers in with small 5 inch tabs to round the fillet corner and then over lapped it with 1708 straight to the hull and stringer. So there looked to be quite a bit of the 1708 sticking right to the bare wood and hull. Like I said in a previous post, the CSM helps build thickness in the corners so the 1708 will lay down better in the radiuses. The key is not to have air bubbles and have the right amount of resin to wet out the glass.

I have seen ten different ways to build boats, and all of them are 500% better than what was done from the factory.

I respect all of the builders here greatly, and we all do things slightly different.

 

[esimmons92]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Thanks for all the hard work Jay! I personally would have not be working on my own boat right now if it weren't for the Sea Ray build, since my boat is a bass boat ( if you get a chance to check it out;: http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...air/1973-chrysler-fin-fun-rebuild-586764.html) the Carlson project is helping me even more!

Your work is Awesome and I along with everyone else really appreciates all you do!

 

[MACn89blckstng]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Everything looks great jay! Get anything done this weekend? Having a helper really does help like you mentioned earlier in the thread. My buddy helped me this weekend and we flew through what I wanted done! Keep at it! Lookin forward to the next video!!

 

[khe]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Jay,

I watched the video on foaming the deck and wondered if the foam could be added before the deck is installed? If any foam was above the stringers, it could be shaved away with a draw knife. Seems scary to have to worry about the foam pressure bursting the deck. Do you know how the foam is added in the factory?

You mentioned adding chop strand mat over the entire deck. I'm assuming you will install carpet over that. Some boats have a textured or cross hatched pattern. Is that done with a mold or an embossing tool in the resin or the gelcoat?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

The foam can be done before decking. Its what was recommended to me and what I will do. Shave it off flush with the stringer with a hand saw. You can put the excess in the nexr empty bay.

 

[Last Mohican]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

The foam forms a skin as it cures. If you shave it off in any way you are removing that skin. It then becomes much much more susceptible to water penetration.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

I'm also going to paint over mine or epoxy over it. I saw pictures of a bulged out hull and I just don't wanna take the chance.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

The foam actually gives the deck rigidity, and that is why I pour it that way. It guess if is your first time, you could cut off the top, but I would not recommend it. The US composites 2Lb foam is very hard to cut, and you ruin the closed cell structure of the foam. If you follow the steps, and go in small increments, you will be fine.

 

[dalephilbeck]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

If you pour foam before decking, after you shave off the excess cover it with resin.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Its seems having the foam seal tightly against the deck offers less opportunity for water to collect should it find a way to penetrate.
P.S. It always seems to find a way to penetrate (eventually)

If the education system always had people that could explain things as well and had the same passion for thier subjects as you Frisco -- Well enough said-- Nice work!

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Great choice for a restoration project. Here is my 72 Cheyenne Super. Original paint. Little rust in the usual places. Rockers and passenger cab corner. I inherited it when my dad passed away about 20 years ago. It was my daily driver for a long time. I started the restoration last winter. The entire suspension and braking system is done at this point. I have been side tracked by other projects so I have not made any progress lately. One day I'll get her done.

(Clickable thumbs)


Hate to see her parked but at least she is out of the weather.

Your garage is just sick!!! I love it.

 

[Last Mohican]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Your garage is just sick!!! I love it.

Thanks Jay. I joke all the time that I built a $35K building to protect a $6K truck and a $4K boat. Now that the Eliminator is in there the toy total is a little closer to the building cost. LOL.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Well, it is time for another big update. The past two weeks have been full of progress. I ran out of 1708 and had to order more before I could tab the deck in. Once I had more goodies, we tabbed the deck on with two overlapping layers of 1708 all the way around the hull perimeter, and one layer on the deck seams. I did not do the seams on the sea ray as they all fell in a bulkhead, and were supported enough. The seams in this boat are floating, and I need the strength.

When the tabbing was cured and I had about four hours to spare we filled the hull with 16 cubic feet (two 16lb kits from us composites) of foam below the deck. I drilled a bunch of 1.5 inch holes and a bunch of 3/8" holes to let out the air. I have seen alot of guys do this before the deck goes down, shave the excess, and then put resin on it. I really do not like to do it that way as the foam helps stiffen the deck, and if the deck has any flex to it, you will hear it rubbing on the foam below. If you take you time and pour in small increments, this way provides a better result.

Once we got the deck foamed, and more resin arrived, we put down two layers of 1.5 oz CSM over the whole deck overlapping the seams by four inches. Doing this used up a staggering 3.5 gallons of resin to get it properly wet out. It always amazes me how much resin it takes. What was really crazy is how much it heated up the garage as it cured.

After all of this it was time to think about how we were going to build the tank structure. The two uprights actually support the front part of the cap, and they need to be correct. Sooo, the plan hatched in my head was to put the cap back on and rig up a hoist system so that we can raise and lower the cap to we can build and then test fit out pieces. I called my neighbor and we all grabbed a corner and slide the cap back on . I was really worried about the hull flaring out, and when the cap dropped on with little problems, I was relieved.

I feel like we are actually starting to round the corner on this project, but the costs just keep mounting up. I guess I really knew this would happen, but hey, I love this stuff.


After receiving some feedback about putting 1708 straight onto wood, and how much resin I was using I called US composites to confirm I was doing this right. Their tech guy said a layer of CSM first on a stringer is not needed as long as your surface is smooth (I.E. nice rounded fillets). Because the 1708 has CSM right on the back allows you to do this. Now they could have said yes just to sell more material, so I believe he is being honest. He also said that my usage was correct, and maybe a little over, but a resin rich piece is better than a resin starved piece of glass. You also have to consider waste. I am using cloth rollers that soak up the resin, and I am going though alot, and I would not be surprised if I have a couple gallons of waste from the buckets and rollers. Plus I made up all the PB for the fillets which used alot too. So, moving along.


Here is how the tabs looked on the deck.

Just doing the tabs used almost two gallons of resin

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Now it was time for the Foam. I purchased two 16lb kits from US composites for this job, and I used ALLLLL of it.

I used two smaller buckets for the part A and part B measuring and then used a larger bucket for mixing. I had four large buckets, and once one had fully cured, we would pull out the foam and use it again. So by the time I went through the four, the first one was ready.

I drilled alot of these. It feels so wrong doing this!!

When I poured, I used 2X4 pieces of wood to force the foam into all the areas. You have to be very careful doing this.

I sear the devil invented this stuff. DO NOT GET THIS ON YOUR SKIN!!!!!!

 

[Decker83]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Great looking work.. I agree with you about the foam.. Putting resin over cut foam is not a very good ideal in MHO.. The resin will crack over time and let any water in the foam..
Seams like its always a whole lot of resin and very little coverage..
Keep up all the good work..

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Laying out the deck glass

This is with the second layer on top. Do not worry about the wrinkles. Once you wet out CSM it will lay down nice.

Two hours later... DONE!

We got the thumbs up for Pops!

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Great looking work.. I agree with you about the foam.. Putting resin over cut foam is not a very good ideal in MHO.. The resin will crack over time and let any water in the foam..
Seams like its always a whole lot of resin and very little coverage..
Keep up all the good work..

I thought so about the resin too, but when I look at my waste, and calculated my area, it was right on target, or maybe a tad over.