Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

[chriscraft254]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Hey man, looking good... Have a couple questions, why did you not just use a 1 1/2 inch wide keel stringer and just fill in below it with pb? Also did you pb the screws you put in the deck?

 

[Hoosmatroos]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Nice work Jay. Are your trousers ans shoes history because of the resin?

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Hey man, looking good... Have a couple questions, why did you not just use a 1 1/2 inch wide keel stringer and just fill in below it with pb? Also did you pb the screws you put in the deck?

The original was 5/8" and did not go down into the keel at all. On the screws I used 5200 and then filled over the head with PB.

Thats funny, I watch your videos thinking my god how does he do all that glass work!!


I can weld all day and grind all night and I am a happy camper!!

Great job Jay, no surprise at all!!

Thanks! Fiberglass does not bother me, it is the grinding of fiberglass.

On my dory build I used epoxy, which made sense since I had a plywood hull skinned in glass. I have a Sea Ray I will be redoing this spring, watching you I think I am going to convert over to poly for that job. It will be so nice to be able to finish up the fillets at the seams and just wait an hour then get at it with the glass tape. I had to do work in the morning, wait until the evening and then do the glass work. Most times it ended up being one step a day.

That is what I have heard about epoxy. When switching to Poly you have to add CSM fiberglass to your mix. It will go between layups, or just use 1708 which has it already on it.

Nice work Jay. Are your trousers ans shoes history because of the resin?

Several pairs already.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Not to add to the ton of question you already answered but when you were glassing the stringers it appears as though you just used 2 layers of 1708 and no CSM, I seem to remember you and most others saying to start with a layer of CSM and a layer between 1708. Did this change? or was it just an uneeded step?

 

[Trooper82]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Nice bit of progress Frisco...think you need to invest in some saw horses...that trashcan mixed with circular saw scared the ##%$%$# out of me!

 

[esimmons92]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Not to add to the ton of question you already answered but when you were glassing the stringers it appears as though you just used 2 layers of 1708 and no CSM, I seem to remember you and most others saying to start with a layer of CSM and a layer between 1708. Did this change? or was it just an uneeded step?

1708 is made up of 2 layers, a17 oz biaxial on top and chopstrand mat on the bottom. So when he laid the 1 st layer of 1708 it included the CMS.

 

[a1964rn]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Nice progress and great videos. We're supposed to have some nice weather by Wed. here in DFW, so hope you get your 1708 in and get to do some glassin before it decides to get cold again. I'm waiting on more epoxy myself to finish up my sole.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

1708 is made up of 2 layers, a17 oz biaxial on top and chopstrand mat on the bottom. So when he laid the 1 st layer of 1708 it included the CMS.

I got that part of it but I just seem to remember him using 1.5 csm in addition to the 1708. Also in WOG's he also shows using a layer of CSM between 1708,just curious as to if that step is no longer needed

 

[Last Mohican]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

We are actually looking for a late 60s early 70s C-10 pickup. Most are rusty beyond belief, and I hate metal working! I can do body work, I just hate welding and grinding.

Great choice for a restoration project. Here is my 72 Cheyenne Super. Original paint. Little rust in the usual places. Rockers and passenger cab corner. I inherited it when my dad passed away about 20 years ago. It was my daily driver for a long time. I started the restoration last winter. The entire suspension and braking system is done at this point. I have been side tracked by other projects so I have not made any progress lately. One day I'll get her done.

(Clickable thumbs)


Hate to see her parked but at least she is out of the weather.

 

[igy]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Great info and video, like your work.

Apparently there is no such thing as a stupid question - well this may just dispel that myth!!!

You keep referring to 'peanut butter' when bedding down the new stringers etc. Well what is Peanut Butter. Also what timber did you use for the new stringers? cheers Ian

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

I'm trying to make a decision right now as to how to create a drainage system for water to flow to the bilge if any ever makes its way under the deck, or perhaps channels for it to flow under the deck on top of the foam. Do you have any plans for anything like this?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

You keep referring to 'peanut butter' when bedding down the new stringers etc. Well what is Peanut Butter.

Peanut Butter = PB = Pookie (at least I think that's how Friscoboater would spell it. He uses that term in several of the videos from the 2 previous builds)

It's just a homemade poly resin filler mixed w/ various types of thickeners depending on the task at hand. Using the regular poly resin and milled fibers (which you can make by cutting up your scrap CSM @ 1/4" pieces) mixed into a thick/hairy PB for use in structural applications. It's thick & will stick to vertical surfaces. It's about the consistency of peanut butter, hence the name.

Mixed using cabosil as a thickener, gives you a mayonnaise like filler that can be used to fill smaller nicks, holes & etc..

Mixed w/ microballons, it's fairly thin & can be used to fill & fair the hull plus filling pin holes in gelcoat & previous fiberglass work....

what timber did you use for the new stringers? cheers Ian

On this build the 2 outer stringers were Douglas Fir, the central stringer is an exterior rated plywood, like his previous builds.

 

[fat fanny]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

J I asked for a update but man! I just spent the last hour catching up and man does that hereo method look great! to bad knowbody will see the results of it! That thing is gonna be as solid as that sweet Ray you re-did!

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

I just [hate welding and] love grinding.

Sorry... After 3 glass boat restores, I had to fix that quote for ya'...

Jay, you are flying through this boat... Everything is looking great...

I haven't watched every single second of the videos so you may have touched on this.... And, I know the question was raised above ^^^, but I was curious as well about the double 1708 without the CSM first (like you did on the Sea Ray, etc..)... I know 1708 is biaxal with the CSM on the underside, but seems like most folks lay down straight CSM first... Maybe just something to elaborate on to let us know what you are thinking...

 

[26aftcab454]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Great Work Jay! Good to see your son has intrest in learning the trade. Compare one of the early photos from the 1st Glasrton resto and compare them to today!

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Honestly, I am not sure where the CSM fist thing came from. That was the whole point of 1708 is that fact that the CSM was stitched to the biax. I think the CSM first thing came from the days when guys used CSM and woven only. You would lay down CSM, them mat, then cam, then mat... and so on.

The only reason I can think of doing this now is to help even out a rough surface, and make it easier to lay down the thick 1708. Like bubbled PL glue or knots and low spots in the wood. 1708 is not really good for filling little voids like that, and the CSM would allow for some mistakes, or sloppy fillets. If you take your time and make everything smooth, the 1708 goes down perfect.

Like I have said before, it is very easy to over think a build. Just look how these boats were built 15 years ago. We are doing lightyears better work that, and we need to remember that.

One more ting to remember. CSM eats up TONS of resin, and that adds up on the weight!

 

[archbuilder]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Looks like you are making some great progress Jay! Having your Dad helping I'm sure is speeding things up....its amazing how much having an extra set of hands helps! Looking forward to seeing it with the cap back on,

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

This is not in disagreement w/ the above, it is solely for information:

1708 has 0.75 oz CSM on the 'back'
the CSM most often used is 1.5 oz
CSM is also available in 2 oz as well, and I think I've seen 1 oz, but don't hold me to it .............

CSM will have less print thru of the weave then 1708, so it should leave an easier surface to fill, smooth & fair prior to gelcoat or paint....

As Jay noted, there are many ways to accomplish similar goals. Having done a couple previous glass projects Jay knows how to make resin & cloth work for him & the way he works it & wets it out. Others may not have as much success skipping the CSM.

CSM contains soluble compounds that dissolve in resin, making it easier to get good contact, conform to contours, and sufficiently bond w/ the subsurface it's applied to. CSM often reduces the likelihood that a layup of will have a layer or 2 of cloth that gets starved of resin (doesn't have enough resin to correctly bond), and is often called the resin rich layer in a layup schedule. For similar reasons, CSM is often used between each layer of 1708, to decrease the likelihood of insufficient bonding between layers.

If we could all do work of Jay's (and other's caliber @iboats) iboats would not be such a busy, popular spot

I too would not be neck deep in multiple resto's if not for the guys putting the info out @iboats and via videos.

Thanks Jay, my Admiral may not share my thankfulness :facepalm:

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

Awesome lots of good info, My main reason for asking is due to the fact that I was considering skipping the CSM layer when I get to this step (hopefully early next month) due to my very small stringer height(approx. 1 1/2"). I'm thinking that a layer of CSM may be needed anyway because of the very same reason, but I guess whenever I get there ill go with whatever feels right mainly how I feel about my glassing skill

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Friscoboater's 1986 Glastron Carlson CVX-18 Complete restoration thread

I did a little more reading into some of my old threads and found where we had talked about this way back in 2010. The CSM was mainly used to round the corners off to allow the 1708 the lay down nicely. I have since learned to round everything off, think like the glass and how it would like to lay down. If you plan it goes down nice.

What I have found that if you wet it out, and the take your time working it, the CSM is not needed.

I am already into my 13th gallon of resin in the project, and I have not even coated the deck yet. I cannot imagine the amount of resin that must use, and the weight it would add too.

What is funny is that the stringers in the Carlson were only held in with one layer of 2 OZ CSM:nono:

Personally I find CSM VERY hard to work with, but that is my opinion.

If you are a beginner, the CSM might help get the radiuses down easier.