Chaparral 2000 SL Sport floor, and more?? [SPLASHED Sept 2017]

[ezmobee]

The windshield bolts are in a channel so if you loosen them you can slide it around some. Would that help close the gap if you leveled the consoles? The supports should be move able also. The windshield alignment was the hardest part of my restore. Struggled quite a bit with it on a buddy's boat as well.

 

[tpenfield]

I hope the folks at Chaparral have been watching you re-build their boat . . . :thumb:

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The windshield bolts are in a channel so if you loosen them you can slide it around some. Would that help close the gap if you leveled the consoles? The supports should be move able also. The windshield alignment was the hardest part of my restore. Struggled quite a bit with it on a buddy's boat as well.

Since there was no need to remove the cap, the windshield was never removed or manipulated. It's in its factory location. Point being, the windshield is my only constant. I have the pass thru door aligned perfectly with about an 1/8" gap top and bottom when closed. If I level the consoles perfectly it really makes the angle of the bow seat boxes weird since they are attached to the consoles. I think I have a happy medium. I was able to save the bow seat box from the demo that I used for templates, so I know those are right.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I hope the folks at Chaparral have been watching you re-build their boat . . . :thumb:

I have been posting on the Chap forum. I don't think many folks over there have ever seen a restoration this involved. On iBoats it's an everyday thing. In the Chap forum I'm becoming a folk hero. Lol. Ok, that might be a slight exaggeration.

 

[chevymaher]

I was reading your thread last night. Very nice boat and job fixing the issues.

 

[proshadetree]

Excellent progress, admire the attention to detail. It's amazing what we overlook on new boats as compared to what we find wrong with them during a rebuild.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

One of the other things I did yesterday while waiting for resin to kick was to sand the gelcoat on the transom. This gelcoat is so thick that it never levels. The end result looks very much like an anti-slip surface. Unfortunately this is not the look I'm going for on the transom.


Before......


Wet sand to 800


Wet sand entire rear to 2000.

The new blended in ok. The important thing is the keyhole is completely flat now.

 

[Slager]

That's looking really nice. What grits did you end up using for each step?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

That's looking really nice. What grits did you end up using for each step?

150 to start, 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Probably could have stopped at 1500, but I had 2000 so why not. Just need to buff out with scratch and swirl remover, then wax.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Finished up the tabbing on the bow seatbase. That was more of a PITA than the first tabbing. It's hard not to wear the resin when you're tabbing in confined spaces.

Once that was all done and kicking I started laying out the top for the seat base. I decided to make it two pieces so it's easier to handle. The center storage cut out was not in the oem design. I decided to add this so I can access the bow loop nuts and easily reinforce my two piece design. The boat is starting to look like a bowrider again!!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

All cleaned up.....cleats installed, cut edges given a drink of slowkicking resin, final adjustments, glued and screwed. Screws covered with left over hairy PB.

 

[mickyryan]

Awesome work man, i totally feel you on the droop, from inside looks like both drooping however from the bow back , looks spot on , i would have gone nuts too , end result looks great !

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Had a couple hours tonight after work to get the ends of my bow seat bases completed. I cut these out a day ago. First I Did some final scribing and trimming on the wood. I added cleats to attach the panels. The cleats got a drink of resin as did the edges of the panels.



I added 1/4" UHMW spacers to the bottom of the panels to keep them off the deck.



Once screwed in I bedded them with thickened resin and 1/4" chop.



Tabbing those panels under the consoles is not going to be a pleasant experience.

 

[ripazka]

It really starts to take the shape now. That boat is just pure quality after your restoration, keep it up!

 

[rad1026]

I love what you have done. My Chap is an 89 2100SX and fortunately for me damage was limited to the stern of the boat. My water intrusion came in from a corroded transom bolt and luckily I caught it before it went past the first bulkhead. My job has been on hold for winter since all my work has to be done outside, but good temps this weekend will have me mixing PB and maybe laying down some glass on my deck. I have two part foam to pour and then I can start bilge paint. I went with a completely different design on my motor mounts. I took them from my friends Sea Ray with a big block. I will also glass the keyhole cut out. Great job! Get that Chappy back in the water!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I love what you have done. My Chap is an 89 2100SX and fortunately for me damage was limited to the stern of the boat. My water intrusion came in from a corroded transom bolt and luckily I caught it before it went past the first bulkhead. My job has been on hold for winter since all my work has to be done outside, but good temps this weekend will have me mixing PB and maybe laying down some glass on my deck. I have two part foam to pour and then I can start bilge paint. I went with a completely different design on my motor mounts. I took them from my friends Sea Ray with a big block. I will also glass the keyhole cut out. Great job! Get that Chappy back in the water!

Thanks rad! I'm taking the extra time now to think through this boat and try to eliminate problem areas of water intrusion. I plan on having this Chap for a long time. Would love to see some pics of your boat and work you did.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

It really starts to take the shape now. That boat is just pure quality after your restoration, keep it up!

Thanks sir, much appreciated. Looking forward to summer, gotta keep digging. Lol.

 

[rad1026]

Here you go Chuck

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...repair/10117890-1989-chaparral-transom-repair

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Got a little bit more bedding done on the insides of my bow seat base. Also a little fairing with thickened resin. I also received the last trim hose I was waiting on so decided to work on the gimbal housing a little.

The mechanic the PO was using must have liked to ensure his customers came back. I noticed red grease smeared about the zerk fitting but really nothing but old black grease in the race. I figured get rid of the red and replace with blue marine grade since I had no idea what was used prior and some greases are incompatible with others. As I squirted grease in the zerk it exited between the race and the housing. The grease should come out between the bearing and the race. Upon further inspection I found that a past mechanic did not align the hole in the race with grease port. It was only 180 degrees out..... luckily the factory grease did its job and the bearing is fine. I'll remove it and align it properly tomorrow.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

A little more tabbing completed. Got the deck tabbed to the bow seat base, and the ends done.