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1989 Chaparral Transom Repair

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  • 1989 Chaparral Transom Repair

    I had some water leaking in to my bilge last season and finally came to the conclusion I had to pull the transom assembly down to the hull and inspect for rotten wood. Sure enough I have some wet wood at the lower port side of the outdrive cut out. The wet wood is concentrated in the area I am showing and the top and starboard side of the cut out look good. I have chiseled out about 3" and still need to keep going. The chisel is slow going. I have tried a couple dremel bits but they haven't really sped things up much. Does anyone have a better way of getting the wet wood out or should I just use my rotozip and remove that part of the inner transom back to dry wood. Give me some advice here guys, this is my first time with this type of repair and I want to do it right the first time.

    So my other question is, why do they use wood here at all. I mean by the time you know there is a problem it is a BIG problem. It just seems like it would not add much production cost to use a completely different material in the transom even if they only used it around the cut out area. It just seems like this type of repair is inevitable at some point in the boats life. What's up with that?

  • #2
    It just seems like this type of repair is inevitable at some point in the boats life. What's up with that?
    Ayuh,.... Designed Obsolescence,...

    Without it, the manufacturers couldn't sell New boats,.....

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    • #3
      I would stop trying to get the wood dug out like your doing. Don't touch the outer skin but go inside and start removing the glass away from the wood on the inside. Depending on how accessible it is to get at the inside of the transom, this will decide if the entire transom is replaced or part of it. I just replaced the lower section on my cruiser but there was no way to do it any other way without cutting the back of the boat off.

      If you have a small battery powered circle saw, set the depth just shy of the out skin and cut a checker board on the inside. Then take a chisel and break the pieces off.
      94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
      95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
      07 SeaDoo GTX
      Raw Water Pump Maintenance
      Merc Adults Only

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      • #4
        Uhhmmm, yeah, I'd recommend you do some searching here on the forum for transom repair. You'll find a LOT of Pics and advice on the Best and Fastest way for getting the job done!!! What size is your Boat??
        Last edited by Woodonglass; February 15th, 2016, 07:50 PM.
        1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
        Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
        Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

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        • #5
          Click image for larger version

Name:	Chaparral.JPG
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          boat is a 21'
          Attached Files
          Last edited by rad1026; February 16th, 2016, 11:04 AM.

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          • #6
            Nice looking Chap. If you don't have one I would suggest getting a oscillating tool. Harbor freight sells some of the half moon blades which hold up pretty well and fit most all tools.

            94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
            95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
            07 SeaDoo GTX
            Raw Water Pump Maintenance
            Merc Adults Only

            Comment


            • #7
              I have sent the last two hours searching transom repair in this forum and have not really found a situation like I am looking at. Most have an outboard set up with the top of the transom easily accessible, or they are cutting out and replacing the entire transom. There isn't much info on a repair or partial replacement. After looking at many posts here is my thought.
              1. Using Rotozip at proper depth, cut around outdrive hole and remove inside layer of fiberglass.
              2. Clean wood out of area and from both inside and outside pieces of fiberglass.
              3. Treat all exposed wood edges with CPES from the Rot Doctor
              4. Reinstall interior fiberglass piece using layers of resin and glass.
              5. Plug or tape outdrive cut out and mounting holes.
              6. Drill fill holes above cut out and do a 2-3 phase poor of maybe TRK-2000 or Sea cast or some other type of transom repair product.

              I really like the idea of having that entire area built with some other material than wood. Not like I plan on anything leaking again, but if it ever does at least its not such a catastrophic event.

              Any thoughts on a plan like that?

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              • #8
                I did a partial repair on my Formula, was a real bear, but started on the bottom and kept cutting until I found dry wood. It started out just like yours, I didn't think there was an issue, a one little chip lead to another. There is 27 pages to this one but just skim for the pics. My first pics look pretty much like yours

                http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...c-transom-work

                Your boat, the get-rot will stop rot IF it gets into everything, but your working on a vertical surface

                Just my opinion others will vary
                Last edited by AllDodge; February 16th, 2016, 02:22 PM.
                94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                07 SeaDoo GTX
                Raw Water Pump Maintenance
                Merc Adults Only

                Comment


                • #9
                  Perfect Dodge, that's what I was looking for thanks for the link. Wow, you did a ton of work. I will keep reading though and see how you got it all back together. I will post more pics this weekend when I can get back in there.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah, when I removed the transom assembly my port side sacrificial anode bolt broke in half because it was completely corroded. I'm sure that's where all of this started.

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                    • #11
                      I sure hope yours isn't as bad as mine was. Will be looking forward to the pics
                      94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                      95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                      07 SeaDoo GTX
                      Raw Water Pump Maintenance
                      Merc Adults Only

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Many boat structures are made of wood. There are pluses and minuses to using wood; moisture and the ensuing rot being the most common 'minus'. When the hulls of boats became fiberglass in the 1960's the structures stayed as wood. Lot of folks don't understand that until they run into a situation like you are addressing.

                        It is best to cut the inner glass layer of the transom and really see how far the moisture goes.

                        In AllDodge's situation, it was a judgement call as to how much of the transom to replace. Fortunately, the damage was contained enough to do just a partial replacement.

                        While you are looking at the transom and the engine is out, now would be a good time to look at the engine mount stringers and even the bulkhead at the front of the engine bay. Moisture tends to travel through a boat's structure like bad news. It is best to know what you are dealing with up front.

                        I also have threads here about fixing the structure of my Formula 242 and Formula 330. Let me know if you need the links, but they should come up on a search.
                        Last edited by tpenfield; February 17th, 2016, 06:55 AM.
                        Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

                        Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
                        Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
                        Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

                        My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

                        Member of the Month - February 2013

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                        • #13
                          Welcome and good luck! I actually grew up on that exact boat down here in South Florida! Same model, color, and year! My dad bought the boat new at the Ft. Lauderdale boat show in '89 and had it until '04 when he sold it to a mechanically-inclined guy from Georgia. Not sure what his HIN number was, but that's awesome! I loved that boat and we did everything from sandbar hopping and cruising to deep sea fishing and snorkeling offshore in that thing.
                          Last edited by drewm3i; February 17th, 2016, 02:34 PM.

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                          • #14
                            May want to check out Friscoboater's SeaRay ( http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ashed?t=454460 ). He did his boat and it needed a total rebuild. He does a great build with helpful Video's.
                            1976 Hammond El Dorado V1950 http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restor...on-609816.html

                            MC-1 Transom Assy http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...1-transom-assy

                            52FordF2

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                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              Im thinking it would be easier to cut and chisel, the old wood out, all of the transom-from the inside. than replace and re glass,
                              ;0)

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