88 Sunray- Deck Transom and Stringers oh my!!

[Grub54891]

They are all built with the carpet in first. Just like a trailer house, it gets put down and capped, to save time and labor. When I gutted mine I did the transom, and stringers up to the helm, Then pulled the cap and sisterd in the rest of the stringer. If you pull the cap first, you have to build a good form to lay the shell in so it stays perfect. It turns in to a bowl of jelly with the cap off.

 

[Jbasham]

Hey thanks for the reply Grub!

So what should I use in place of the carpet under there? I'm afraid the windshield won't line up if I don't fill that void.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

To answer your other question, yes grind out all the bad glass. My Chap had the same exact areas of glass that wasn't fully wetted out. Bottom line is new resin is not going to adhere well to it. It's gotta go.

Nice tear out by the way. I'll be following along.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Hey thanks for the reply Grub!

So what should I use in place of the carpet under there? I'm afraid the windshield won't line up if I don't fill that void.

You could use a piece of plastic or rubber. Lowes sells solid rubber door mats. I cut one of these into strips and used it to support my fuel tank. The mat is about $9.00.

 

[Grub54891]

I did what the factory did, I has second thoughts about it but then again, the wood was in better shape in them areas. I'll be taking better care of the boat than previous owners did also. If I was to do it again, I's fill the area with 1/4" marine plywood, seal it and install. I got lucky with the height of the deck, I really had no reference point as everything was in bad shape, all I had was the measurements from where the deck met the hull, When the cap went back on, it matched perfectly. It took a lot of head scratching and measuring to get it right.

 

[Jbasham]

Stringer material question. As you can see in this picture the manufacturer used 2x6's with a 2inch shim at the bottom to make a 2x8. I was going to drive 3 hours to the nearest lumber yard for some kiln dried dougfir 12ft 2x8's but not Im not sure...

Ive done research on the topic and seen people use plywood instead but im not sure I should change how it was. Can I still screw the deck directly to the the stringer if they are plywood? Also my stringer spacing puts them directly under the motor mounts where they are lag bolted in. Will I be ok with lag bolting the mounts into the edge of plywood? Thanks guys!

 

[Grub54891]

I used marine plywood, The original stringers were just 1" thick. I laminated the plywood to get 1-1/2" stringers. I sealed all of it, and sealed the floor pcs before laying them in. I used peanut butter mix to set the floor down, and screwed it also. She is solid! Mine has the 3.0 motor so it don't bolt to the stringer, But I think it would be fine to use plywood on yours too.

 

[Jbasham]

To answer your other question, yes grind out all the bad glass. My Chap had the same exact areas of glass that wasn't fully wetted out. Bottom line is new resin is not going to adhere well to it. It's gotta go.

Nice tear out by the way. I'll be following along.

Thanks Chuck!

 

[Woodonglass]

I think you'll find this helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[Jbasham]

I think you'll find this helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms[/URL]

Yes thanks WOG! I have read that several times. Im leaning towards ply stringers just want to make sure first.

 

[Jbasham]

Good morning guys just wondering how my hull should be supported before I completely remove the stringers.

My trailer is a 4 bunk (2x4s) style. Right now I have blocks under the corners of the transom on top of the bunks. The only place they are still touching is about 12ft forward where the stringers stop and the bow is resting on the rubber v-block.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Plywood yields much greater structural strength with the added glass and proper installation...it will last as long as you have the boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Good morning guys just wondering how my hull should be supported before I completely remove the stringers.

My trailer is a 4 bunk (2x4s) style. Right now I have blocks under the corners of the transom on top of the bunks. The only place they are still touching is about 12ft forward where the stringers stop and the bow is resting on the rubber v-block.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

I built a cradle on my trailer with a bunch of scrap lumber when i did the Avanti. a bunch of plywood holding the V shape and tying them all together with 2x4's that way I could roll the hull out from under the cap (suspended from the rafters by ratchet straps) and work on it in the driveway and roll it back.

 

[Jbasham]

Plywood yields much greater structural strength with the added glass and proper installation...it will last as long as you have the boat.

Sounds good. I know you recommend Arauco ply. My Home Depot doesn't stock that brand but they have some other pine plywood that looks just like it but it's made in China. Is it sufficient?

 

[tpenfield]

Make sure the plywood is APA Rated "Exterior" or "Marine"

 

[Jbasham]

I built a cradle on my trailer with a bunch of scrap lumber when i did the Avanti. a bunch of plywood holding the V shape and tying them all together with 2x4's that way I could roll the hull out from under the cap (suspended from the rafters by ratchet straps) and work on it in the driveway and roll it back.

Thanks Scott I'll just have to figure something out up front then since it's already supported at the rear.

 

[Jbasham]

Make sure the plywood is APA Rated "Exterior" or "Marine"

Yeah I couldn't find much more info on the China stuff but I just found some ACX so I'm going with that.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Yeah I couldn't find much more info on the China stuff but I just found some ACX so I'm going with that.

You pay a little more for ACX, and BCX will be fine. The glue between the plies is the same, the difference is the grade of wood of the outer plies. I used the BCX 19/32" plywood on my transom and bulkheads.

 

[Woodonglass]

The ACX will be fine but...You MUST do a good job of sealing the edges with resin. This is the most vulnerable part of the plywood and where water will get in first if not properly sealed. Transom is not as critical since it will be totally bedded in PB except for the top edge.

 

[Jbasham]

The ACX will be fine but...You MUST do a good job of sealing the edges with resin. This is the most vulnerable part of the plywood and where water will get in first if not properly sealed. Transom is not as critical since it will be totally bedded in PB except for the top edge.

So I shouldn't have a filet of PB on the top of the transom?