86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

Now that the gimbal ring and gimbal bearing are off, I pressure washed everything again. A tip... dont leave the loctite rust remover on over nite! :facepalm: it's harder to get off than when u follow the directions on the bottle

My nephew is out of college for Christmas break so he came and gave me a hand. He was a big help, we got alot accomplished working together. We stopped at HD and got to the boat ready to work. Started right in on the parts hanger....

 

[tpenfield]

It will be interesting to see how the naval jelly works on aluminum. There is a similar product called 'aluminum jelly' that removes the corrosion from aluminum. I used it on my fuel tank restoration, but I imagine it would be great for the outdrive as well.

 

[Goldie627]

I had my back to my nephew and I was telling him... "I sure hope this stand holds all these parts" I turn around and he's hanging on it!!! LOL I was like oh yeah were good

I didn't feel like going all the way home and digging out my pressure washer after doing that the day before, so we stopped at the car wash to blast the transom plate and trim cylinders that I forgot to wash.

Got back from lunch and got the hangers up..

 

[Goldie627]

We put the heaviest pieces towards the outside....

Quick shot of the skegaroonie...

Other side...

 

[Goldie627]

I tried to go light (coat) on this etching primer but i'm so dadgumbed heavy handed I did have alot of bear metal but im hoping ill be ok. This pocket cover gasket will be replaced...

 

[Goldie627]

More etching primer....

Yikes! I gotta order that seal..

 

[Goldie627]

More etching...

 

[Goldie627]

Hey guys, I'm not clear on the next steps... sand, acetone, primer? or acetone, primer? or just primer? Oh, that reminds me I gotta check my can of primer to make sure its good. Also gotta lean how to use my HPLV real quick. Next weekend will be exciting!!!

 

[Goldie627]

Side note about pressure washing. The first time I washed all the parts at the car wash and it came out ok. The second time I used my own pressure washer and it came out way better. The public car wash just doesn't have the force of your personal washer, it works but just not as well. The third time I went to the car wash only to save time plus I only had three pieces that weren't bad.

 

[tpenfield]

I'd go primer . . . Then top coat of paint

 

[Woodonglass]

She's ready for some Clean Metal Primer now!!!

 

[Goldie627]

She's ready for some Clean Metal Primer now!!!

Hey Woody, should I use the clean metal primer instead of the magic primer? One or two coats primer? Do I sand and acetone between each coat? Thank you!

 

[Goldie627]

It will be interesting to see how the naval jelly works on aluminum. There is a similar product called 'aluminum jelly' that removes the corrosion from aluminum. I used it on my fuel tank restoration, but I imagine it would be great for the outdrive as well.

The loctite rust remover worked ok, but for me, out of all the things i tried, what worked the best was, elbow grease, sand paper (for rough spots only), scotch brite pads, assorted wire brushes, flat head screwdrivers, and a whole lot of patience.

I was able to get almost all of the corrosion off. I cant wait to paint!!

 

[kramerpage]

Hey that's Looking GOOD! I would suggest from my experience to place bolts in all your threaded holes to make them easier the chase when your finished. The water hose brass fitting can be tapped up leaving the last couple threads then screw it in. Here is mine. Keep up the great progress. You inspire me...

 

[Rick Stephens]

It's GREEN

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you check the Majic primer yet? If it's Good to go then use it. If not then use the Rusty' Clean Metal Primer. Not more than you have to shoot it's easy to use out of the can and good stuff.

 

[Goldie627]

Hey that's Looking GOOD! I would suggest from my experience to place bolts in all your threaded holes to make them easier the chase when your finished. The water hose brass fitting can be tapped up leaving the last couple threads then screw it in. Here is mine. Keep up the great progress. You inspire me...

Awwww, shucks... You inspire me! I grew up reading marvel comics! Bruce Banner - "you wouldn't like me when I'm angry" I'm trying to remember if he dropped that line in the movie? He used it alot in the tv series...

I would love to follow your progress, I'll search for your resto thread.

Thanks for the tips, I have to go by HD for some clean metal primer so ill pick up some dummy bolts to protect them threads. I didnt have a deep socket big enough for the water hose fitting :grumpy: so i taped it in place I would have liked to remove it though. I might get my brother to bring one home from work.

 

[Goldie627]

Did you check the Majic primer yet? If it's Good to go then use it. If not then use the Rusty' Clean Metal Primer. Not more than you have to shoot it's easy to use out of the can and good stuff.

I havent checked it yet but after thinking about it the time savings with rattle cans is worth it. Ill pick up the Clean Metal Primer.

Build up the primer with light coats until i can lightly sand it smooth, acetone then paint?

Woody, I want people to know the proper coverage for etching primer. I know a light coat so you can see the metal showing thorugh. Would you say more, less or like what is shown in the pics. I wanted to do less but I had bare metal showing sporatically all over each piece. The only piece that didnt have bare metal exposed was the transom plate (not shown in pics).

 

[Goldie627]

If anybody has a pic of what an etching primer coat is supposed to look like please post it, I want people to know the right way if mine was too heavy.

 

[Woodonglass]

I havent checked it yet but after thinking about it the time savings with rattle cans is worth it. Ill pick up the Clean Metal Primer.

Build up the primer with light coats until i can lightly sand it smooth, acetone then paint?

Woody, I want people to know the proper coverage for etching primer. I know a light coat so you can see the metal showing thorugh. Would you say more, less or like what is shown in the pics. I wanted to do less but I had bare metal showing sporatically all over each piece. The only piece that didnt have bare metal exposed was the transom plate (not shown in pics).

IMHO this...

Pretty much shows how the SE primer should be applied. You can see the old surface kinda peeking through. Nice job!!!

For the Clean Metal primer, I lay down 3-4 light coats until I get good total coverage. About 10 minutes between coats. If you have a lot of parts you can pretty much just spray one coat and then when you're done shooting them all with one coat, go back and start over with the next one. Maybe wait just a few minutes but not a whole lot. Just depends on how long it takes. I then let em cure for a couple of hours and then use a scotch brite pad to knock down any nubs and then wipe it all down with a 50/50 mix of acetone and Mineral Spirits and then shoot the color coat with the hardener.

Just an FYI that I learned while surfing the Interweb the other day. You can buy a $10 Harbor Freight HVLP Purple Spray gun and then use a 5/64 drill bit to drill out the nozzle. this makes it big enuf to spray thick primer and GelCoat. Next time they put the gun on sale I'm gunna buy it and try it. What have I got to lose. The guy on Youtube make it look like it worked GREAT!!!! He was shooting the Double thick primer and it was going down GREAT!!!!