72 Thunderbird Formula w/twin 165hp Mercs

[archbuilder]

Mark, you might look around to see if there is a local company that can make it up for you. We have a lot of them, but we are in the middle of the oil patch. I've done that several times and saved money over OEM. Most of the time they made them on the spot for me.

 

[Mark72233]

Woe, thanks I will look into that. The high pressure side was what I wasn't sure of since all the rest of the hoses are just the regular style hoses with clamps.

Arch I will look around and see what we have here in Panama City but not holding my breath its a tourist town not too much industry here.

 

[wahlejim]

Hi Mar, I have been reading through your thread this morning and I have to say that I am blown away! I will definitely be following to see how she comes out! Excellent work so far! I see that you may need some diagrams for different systems while installing your engines:

http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

This is a link to any service manuals you could possibly need from mercruiser. You can view them online and print out the pages that you need. The only thing you cannot do is download them. Hope this helps with the steering.

I have an identical power trim system on my boat. I saw that you mentioned you had single and dual solenoid systems on the pumps that you have. In your application, you will definitely want to use the dual solenoid system. If you have any questions regarding your trim, I completely rebuilt mine this summer and will be happy to help.

Everything looks amazing!

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

Mark,
Forget Classic Tube, I mean... they maybe able to make you something custom but most of their stuff looks to be too small for power steering, which needs to be at least -6AN (3/8") in size.

I decided to just build my own hose out of braided PTFE lined hose from Russell Performance. You can get their powerflex hose from Summit Racing, 6ft length for ~$30, then all you need are the proper fittings. All told it adds up to about $90-$100, so not much cheaper really, but it's far better quality that will outlast any rubber hose. Plus it provides quick and easy disconnection should you need service, not to mention sharp looks! I bought a few different fitting adapters, I just need to figure out the right sizes that work with the pump outlet and steering ram, so I'll have to get back to you on that. I'll be starting to put together my p/s lines soon so be sure to check in!

helpful links...these are just examples of the universal parts necessary to build your own kit...
Russell SS Braided Power Steering Hose
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/powerflex.shtml

powerflex -6AN fitting
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620411

Various -6AN to Inverted Flare w/o-ring adapters for p/s pump
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-77901

Return line adapter for steering ram
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-aps8100

Hope that helps!

 

[Mark72233]

wahlejim, thanks for the kind words a lot of the credit should go to those on this forum that give great advise and follow through and encouragement. After a year of restoring this boat everyday or at least every week feels like that Bill Murray movie Ground Hog Day. My wife will ask me on the weekends "So what are you going to do today" or "What are your plans today". I just smile and say really you have to ask, I am going to work on the boat, again. When I get to the trim motors I may take you up on the help and thanks for that web site That will certainly help.

Woe, I will have to take back my slam on PC just being a tourist town. I went to a business that is right down the street from the station, Florida Hose & Rubber. Walked in with the parts and told him what I needed and could he do it, he just smiles and asks me do I want to wait on it or come back in an hour. Turns out they can do that type of work fast and no problem. I didn't even ask how much because I am sure it will be a lot less then $100. I will let you know when I pick it up later today.

 

[Mark72233]

I meant Arch not Woe. :facepalm:

Woe, thanks for all the advise and links hopefully I wont need them at least not on this issue.

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

I meant Arch not Woe. :facepalm:

Woe, thanks for all the advise and links hopefully I wont need them at least not on this issue.

Hey, that's awesome news, sounds like you lucked out!
I suppose if I'd looked hard enough I could've found a local hose&rubber co. too, but I guess I just want that bling-bling!

 

[Mark72233]

Done and cost me $50 and looks awesome and better then OEM at less than half the cost. Thank you Florida Hose & Rubber :encouragement:

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

That's great news! Glad it was that easy, onto the next job!

 

[archbuilder]

Cool glad you found some place to make it for you!

 

[Mark72233]

Question about wires and oil pressure sender/sensor. I don't have pics right now because I am at my moms house fixing toilets, hanging screen doors and some sheet rock work in the garage. Anyway I will post a pic when I get home. The question or problem. On both of my Mercruiser 165hp Chevy 250s. The oil pressure sensor/senders on the engines have a place for 2 wires to connect to it. I connected both wire harnesses yesterday and I have an orange wire and a purple wire. In the manual it shows the orange wire connecting to the oil pressure but doesn't show or state which connection to hook it to the one at the end of the sensor or the side of the sensor. And it doesn't say or show any purple wire. All the wiring harnesses are the same, I have 3 of them. Before I started putting the wire harnesses on I took the old nasty rusted crusted one off the old engine but dummy me I didn't snap any pics or write down where wires were connected. Most of the wires weren't connected but there was a wire connected to the side contact point in the oil sensor and my horrible memory is telling me it was the purple wire connected to that one and the orange connected to the end one. I will search the web for a picture.

 

[Mark72233]

Finally made it home the "can you fix this" kept getting longer. Here are the pics of the oil pressure sensor with the orange and purple wire connected how I think they should be. Is this right?

 

[mr300z87]

First let me say I am no expert and have not worked on an inline Chevy engine since HS autoshop way back when!! The large sender that you have the orange wire to is the oil pressure sender that goes to the gauge, the other smaller sender is a switch and on my late 80s 5.7L it is used for a low oil pressure warning system. Does your boat have a low oil pressure/over heat warning system? I could also be used for a electric fuel pump. Other that that I am not sure why the small sender is there. My wires are light blue for the gauge and tan/blue for the warning system so that is no help. Looking at the wiring diagram for a 165 I6 the orange is correct and the purple is not used, it states this in one of the other engine diagrams that it is used for accessories. Manual 3 page 3F-11 which is the diagram for a 165 I6 and it show the purple wire going no where.

Are you planning of test running the engine before install. It is a good idea if you can do it, .this way you can check for leaks or issues, if any arise it an easier fix on the ground. I rigged up a pallet and some gauges for the test run of my 7.4L it did not **** my neighbors off to much. Here is a Video



And keep up the good work.

 

[archbuilder]

Mine only has the large sender mark, no tee or the smaller sending unit. What Mr300 is saying makes sense.

 

[Mark72233]

Arch, mr300 is right on the money. I finally found a wiring schematic that shows the orange wire like the rest of them going to the Oil pressure SENDER and it also shows the purple wire going to the oil pressure SWITCH. The document is 46 pages long and on page 9 with this header it has the info I was looking for. ENGINE-MERCRUISER 120 (SERIAL NO. 3770650 AND UP),
140 (3771645 AND UP) AND 165 (3774665 AND UP)
I would show you a copy of the document but I tried copy and paste and moving it over to photobucket but the document wont do that. Anyway mr300 wins the prize.

Here is the web address for where I found the diagrams at, see if that works. http://web.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/boat/pdf/manual/Wiring Diagrams.pdf

This boat has never had any alarms for low oil pressure but I will just hook it up and leave it. Maybe I will see what it would involve to buy and hook up a low oil pressure alarm. Like I don't already have enough stuff to do and buy.

 

[mr300z87]

Its a very simple system, The buzzer is connected to power and ground and then the oil switch, over heat switch and in my case the drive oil container connects to the buzzer sensor wire. Example no oil pressure the switch closes and completes the circuit to ground and buzzer sounds. I found one on ebay when I thought mine was bad still have it pm me if interested. You can can connect both engines to the same buzzer. If one or both your engines were from trucks the small oil switch could also be used for the oil pressure idiot light also. Glad I could help, I have been in the wiring business for 30 years so this is right my alley.

 

[Mark72233]

Electrical question. I am thinking about cranking up the engines while they are on the ground. They are wired up but not to any console or ignition switch. How do I hook it up. I have the switches which have 3 terminals. "b" battery, "I" for ignition is that the positive side of coil? and "S" is the for the "S" side on the starter? The engine is lag bolted down on a pallet. Water hose hooked up.

 

[Mark72233]

Ok am I doing something wrong. I have 2 brand new Seadog brand ignition switches. Pulled one out of the package and put the key in and it won't turn, opened the second one same thing. These are just basic turn 3 position switches they shouldn't have to be hooked up to turn over should they. I am baffled that's my baffled face

 

[tpenfield]

Electrical question. I am thinking about cranking up the engines while they are on the ground. They are wired up but not to any console or ignition switch. How do I hook it up. I have the switches which have 3 terminals. "b" battery, "I" for ignition is that the positive side of coil? and "S" is the for the "S" side on the starter? The engine is lag bolted down on a pallet. Water hose hooked up.

On my Merc 454 engine, I used something as simple as an alligator clip for the ignition. and just touched the starter lead to the + post to activate the started as needed. I ran an 8 GA wire from the battery + to the post on the starter and another 8 GA from a flywheel housing bolt to the neg side of the battery. So 4 wires total.

you could run through an ignition switch if you know the wiring is correct, or I just stuffed the ignition and starter leads into the engine connector.

Just add water before starting :thumb:

 

[Woodonglass]

I KNOW NOTHING about ignitions but...Could it be that you have to push IN on the key to engage the ignition lock before it will let the key turn???:noidea: