1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

tpenfield

tpenfield

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

I just don't see any evidence of Woven Roving in any of the pictures that you have posted.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

tpenfield said:
I just don't see any evidence of Woven Roving in any of the pictures that you have posted.
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Yeah its hard to see from these crappy pics but its there. Im hoping I can chip away all the poorly laid CSM and have a lot less grinding to fool with prior to installing the new stringers.

On another note what is the best stuff to use in the bilge as a coating. Now that I have been chipping up the crappy CSM that was used for the motor mounts I have found that I think they must have used 100 gallons of gel coat. Im not kidding when I say the gel coat in the bilge is no less than 1/4" thick in places.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Since im in this far I have decided to replace the transom as well. I have core sampled it and there is nothing I can find rotten. There is however a bunch of wet wood. So unless someone can tell me a way to dry it out I guess it will be replaced.

I think I have a plan which involves a skill saw and air chisel to remove it. I'm curious though why the center section is the thickest. Is there any advantage to extending it the entire width of the boat? After you take into account the extra effort in adding the fillets for glass I cant see why not to extend it the full length.

Any thoughts
 
Woodonglass

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Pics, Pics, Pics!!!! Transom pics would be VERY Helpful We CAN'T see what you're talking about unless you SHOW us. We can give you good advice unless we can SEE your boat and what you are working on.:rolleyes: I do apologize but I am getting frustrated. I want to help but am finding it very difficult not being able to see what you're working on. Please take the time to take some detailed pics of the Entire Inside of your boat so all of us can get an idea of it's dimensions and the overall layout of it. The transom of Most Inboard boats is built up in the center section only to accomodate the outdrive. Depending on the outdrive it will be around 2 - 2 1/2" thick and it IS critical to get it perfectly Flat and parallel.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Woodonglass said:
Pics, Pics, Pics!!!! Transom pics would be VERY Helpful We CAN'T see what you're talking about unless you SHOW us. We can give you good advice unless we can SEE your boat and what you are working on.:rolleyes: I do apologize but I am getting frustrated. I want to help but am finding it very difficult not being able to see what you're working on. Please take the time to take some detailed pics of the Entire Inside of your boat so all of us can get an idea of it's dimensions and the overall layout of it. The transom of Most Inboard boats is built up in the center section only to accomodate the outdrive. Depending on the outdrive it will be around 2 - 2 1/2" thick and it IS critical to get it perfectly Flat and parallel.
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Dude, what are you talking about? I have posted 10 pics of the rear section of my boat in this thread. Not sure why you would be frustrated.

The transom is exactly as you mentioned. It is built up in the center to accommodate the outdrive. Im just curious if it would be okay to extend that extra thickness to the full width of the transom. Other than taking up a little extra room and being a little heavier I cant see what it would hurt.. This is my first rodeo so maybe I am missing something.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

More pics of the tabbing and stringers coming out. Sorry the pics of the entire structure didnt come out for whatever reason.

P1050414.jpg
tabbremove2.jpg
tabbremove3.jpg
P1050413.jpg
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

pics of consoles.

consoles.jpg

Anyone have a good way to support the consoles while im hacking out the rest of the floor. I currently have them supported with 2x4's as you can see by the pics.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

hullgif.jpg

Finally a pic of the majority of the rear.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Woodonglass said:
That's as good a method as any!
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My issue is that the area that the 2x4's need to be in order to support the consoles is right in my way. Ill need to figure a way to support both without any 2x4 legs.

Im thinking if I can possibly make something that spans the width of the boat.. maybe... I dunno just wondering if someone has gone down this road before.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Woodonglass said:
Yep, it has a transom! But...to truly help you with it, we're gunna need better pics. Better lighting and a bit closer would be good!!!;)
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I think im good regarding the transom. Seems that the biggest issue is just maintaing the thickness where the outdrive enters the hull. I may or may not extend the center "thickest" section of the transom to the full width of the hull. Seems to me it would be strong but probably overkill as well.
 
Woodonglass

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

There's really no reason to extend it. Replace it just like it was originally built and tab it to the hull. Pay attention to the MFG tolerances for the outdrive and make sure you're within spec for that. It's critical. As for the console's to get the 2x4's out of your way you could lay a 4x4 across the top and hook a nylon strap to the edge of the console and wrap it around the 4x4 to hold it up.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Woodonglass said:
There's really no reason to extend it. Replace it just like it was originally built and tab it to the hull. Pay attention to the MFG tolerances for the outdrive and make sure you're within spec for that. It's critical. As for the console's to get the 2x4's out of your way you could lay a 4x4 across the top and hook a nylon strap to the edge of the console and wrap it around the 4x4 to hold it up.
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Any idea where to find spec on transom thickness. I would assume this is specific to the engine and outdrive, not so much the boat. Worst case I just measure what I have and copy it.

I will have to get out and see how I could go about laying a long board on top then using straps to hold it up. That may indeed be what I will end up doing. Just have to see how the windshield plays into this.
 
bigdirty

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

I wana say its 2" to 2 1/4" thickness required.. as for supporting the consoles, is there enough of a walkaround or ledge on the outer edges of the boat? I'd build an A frame of sorts, like a big saw horse with two pieces hanging down between the consoles, then a piece or two of 2x6 or what ever under them, supported from above from the center of the A frame...
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

bigdirty said:
I wana say its 2" to 2 1/4" thickness required.. as for supporting the consoles, is there enough of a walkaround or ledge on the outer edges of the boat? I'd build an A frame of sorts, like a big saw horse with two pieces hanging down between the consoles, then a piece or two of 2x6 or what ever under them, supported from above from the center of the A frame...
Click to expand...

No unfortunately there is not. I was just out working on it and was contemplating what to do. If I removed all of the glass and framing I could maybe do that but I dont want to go to that trouble.

I am gonna do some more work and see if I can somehow prop some supports in a diagonal fashion from the inside of the hull up to the consoles. If I can just get something off the floor so I can rip it up I can move forward
 
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Axkiker

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Anyone using wood flour for making their pb? Its what I was recommended to use so its what I purchased. After reading a bit it seems like I see people using everything including chopped fibers, cabosil, or glass bubbles. Not seeing much talk of wood flour so I thought I would ask about pros and cons before I get into it.
 
Woodonglass

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Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Wood flour is not recommended due to the fact that polyester is a bit hygroscopic, meaning it can allow some water absorption, albeit very minute. Wood flour just adds to the problem. Thus you don't want to use it. Bondo uses talc as it's filler for its products and it's almost as bad as wood flour and that's why it's not used for water immersed products. Cabosil and glass bubbles will not absorb water and thus are good products for thickening polyester resin. Epoxy is far less hygroscopic and you CAN use wood flour with it.

Here's the specs on your transom...
 
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