1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You'll be using quite a bit of 1.5oz CSM to make up for no 17oz biaxial 1708. And in terms of design strength, it will be resin rich & fiber weak. The biaxial cloth (1708) should be stronger then multiple layers of Chopped Strand Mat.

This is the best practice, to answer your question, as suggested widely across most of the iboats resto forum:
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

I'm not sure I understand your last 2 posts:

In 1 you ask 'can I skip the 1708 I've read that many have recommended'?

Then in the next you ask for the best, strongest, better then factory way to rebuild the boat and the best way to seal wood.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Just curious of ways others have possibly made their boat better than factory. An example would be I have considered doubling up on the rear stringers for extra support. A big part of my idea is bedding and wrapping each stringer individually. This way if one stringer becomes compromised the other stringer is independent of the other and would not soak up water. Essentially the other stringer could soak up water, completely rot, and it would still be as strong as the factory.

It was just a wild thought I had run through my head. I most likely will not go this route but it was a thought.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You'll be using quite a bit of 1.5oz CSM to make up for no 17oz biaxial 1708. And in terms of design strength, it will be resin rich & fiber weak. The biaxial cloth (1708) should be stronger then multiple layers of Chopped Strand Mat.

This is the best practice, to answer your question, as suggested widely across most of the iboats resto forum:
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

I'm not sure I understand your last 2 posts:

In 1 you ask 'can I skip the 1708 I've read that many have recommended'?

Then in the next you ask for the best, strongest, better then factory way to rebuild the boat and the best way to seal wood.

Just curious of ways others have possibly made their boat better than factory. An example would be I have considered doubling up on the rear stringers for extra support. A big part of my idea is bedding and wrapping each stringer individually. This way if one stringer becomes compromised the other stringer is independent of the other and would not soak up water. Essentially the other stringer could soak up water, completely rot, and it would still be as strong as the factory.

It was just a wild thought I had run through my head. I most likely will not go this route but it was a thought.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

We in the tin boat world do that all the time, new supports, spray rail braces, stringers and anything else we see fit to add strength to our boats. Sounds like a great idea to me to add more beef to the sandwich! :thumb:

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"[/URL]

That is a great link!!! It really helped me make so much sense of this whole project.

Its sooo funny how crappy this boat was built. When they installed the stringers they didn't even apply CSM half way up the side of some stringers. I found the end of one bulkhead not even attached to anything. It wasnt an issue with delamination, it just never was attached!!!

It amazes me that boats must be pretty darn strong even without a stringer structure. This boat was a running, usable boat prior to me tearing it apart. The only signs of issue would be the slightly soft spot in the floor around the ski locker.

Once I tore into it I found issue after issue.

I tried to fight it, but it really is true what people on here say. Boats rot from the bottom up.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

1 stringer done right will be more then sufficient, but if you'd rather take more time, money & add extra weight to the boat, double up the stringers.

I'd suggest that poor care & lack of maintenance by owners cause a great deal of the damage that can be the death nail for a fiberglass boat.

Build it to the best of your ability, then take good care of it when in use, and store it dry, bow up & covered.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

So how has all of the more experienced people cut out their stringers. Now that I have the fuel tank removed I have a lot more room to work and have been using my sawzall. My issue is that I cant really get to the very edge of the hull. Are most people just leaving this and applying the stringers on top??? Or is there another way to get it flush. With the amount of wood left between the fiberglass layers I cant imagine people are grinding it all the way down. That would take forever since you cant hardly grind wood.

Any help or hints?

 

[bvetter]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Sawzall out as best you can. Use a chisel to chip out whatever wood is left. Then go to town with a grinder. The more you can remove before grinding, the easier it will be.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Use every tool at your disposal to get it all cut down flush with the hull...
Sawzall, chisels, multi-tool, and yes, even a grinder with fiber cutting discs...I have used them all, including a Dremel rotary tool to get into the last of nooks and crannies...

Definitely get and use 1708 biaxial cloth...it is many times stronger for structural work than CSM...I use CSM mostly as a first layer on all my wood, before I install it as a way of waterproofing the wood as best as possible...

Progress is sounding good, keep up the great work!

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Use every tool at your disposal to get it all cut down flush with the hull...
Sawzall, chisels, multi-tool, and yes, even a grinder with fiber cutting discs...I have used them all, including a Dremel rotary tool to get into the last of nooks and crannies...

Definitely get and use 1708 biaxial cloth...it is many times stronger for structural work than CSM...I use CSM mostly as a first layer on all my wood, before I install it as a way of waterproofing the wood as best as possible...

Progress is sounding good, keep up the great work!

Any recommendations as to the best grinding disks for grinding the glass. So far the most aggressive I have found is a 40 grit flapper from lowes. Any more aggressive options out there.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You can get 24 grit resin coated discs and a backup pad from Harbor freight. It's what I recommend.
5 in. 24 Grit Resin Fiber Sanding Discs 5 Pc

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Curious how many of you are re-installing your fuel tanks. Mine came stock with just a few strips of rubber around the sides. Would it be possible to pour foam prior allowing it to somewhat expand up the sides.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Another quick question about bedding. Is it acceptable to make PB with nothing but wood flour and resin. Seems like I have seen numerous recipes on here. Some using chop strand, cabisile, flour etc etc.

thanks

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You can get 24 grit resin coated discs and a backup pad from Harbor freight. It's what I recommend.
5 in. 24 Grit Resin Fiber Sanding Discs 5 Pc

Found some of those just today. They should help tremendously.

thanks

 

[bigdirty]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

I'm not there yet, but when I do re-install my tank i will be dropping it on some rubber strips, and bolting/strapping in into place. Dont know how big a tank you have, but my 80gal with only a 1/4 tank of fuel was something HEAVY to lift out with 2 guys.. I'd say you want it to be on rubber for vibration but secured REALLY well. :lol: and the way the factory sometimes does things (see my crownline thread) can be less than great imo.. Oh, and ya, I've had good success with a long flexible sawsall blade as well as a hammer with a good sharp chisel for removing wood and old glass tabbing.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

I'm not there yet, but when I do re-install my tank i will be dropping it on some rubber strips, and bolting/strapping in into place. Dont know how big a tank you have, but my 80gal with only a 1/4 tank of fuel was something HEAVY to lift out with 2 guys.. I'd say you want it to be on rubber for vibration but secured REALLY well. :lol: and the way the factory sometimes does things (see my crownline thread) can be less than great imo.. Oh, and ya, I've had good success with a long flexible sawsall blade as well as a hammer with a good sharp chisel for removing wood and old glass tabbing.

Yeah, after thinking about it, I think the tank is going back in with the original rubber strips. I didn't see how foam could improve anything by using it instead of rubber. The main thing I guess is that the tank needs to be secure and not move at all.

Ohhhhh believe me, that sawzall and I have become great friends. I have been using a pretty flexible 12" blade to remove stringers and huge foam hunks all at once. It has saved me a ton of time.

Also found that a pneumatic hammer chisel is great at removing wood. I had to weld the end of a cheap 1/2" chisel to the original bolt cutter but it hacks wood out with ease. Im gonna reweld a larger 2" to it after the wood is out to see how it removes tabbing. Either way I kinda feel I have the hang of removing this crap.

Im still amazed at how crappy these boats are built and how long it lasted to begin with.. Amazing.

On another note any hints at removing the motor mounts? So far I have just been slitting the glass with a cutting wheel then smashing away with a demo bar. Just curious if there is an easier way to remove in larger chunks.

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You guys might want to re-think the use of rubber to install your tanks...How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank : Boats, Yachts - Maintenance Repair and Troubleshooting

 

[bigdirty]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

You guys might want to re-think the use of rubber to install your tanks...

Interesting... My tank was set on 4 strips about 1" wide, along both bottom sides (tank is a V shape) on a painted wood 'shelf' only tabbed to the front and rear bulkhead, not glassed over or sealed. It worked, yes, but I will be doing it differently than originally built on my boat, as it DID trap water and rot the wood it was set on... I plan on beefing up the stringers and support under the tank, and it will only be small strips of rubber on the bottom, and front face.. (vertical, against bulkhead) but open at the lowest point of the tank, so any water that does get in, which it will, can drain to the rear bilge. I figure my tank looks pretty good after 20 years, so I dont know if I agree the rubber will hurt the aluminum so much as trap water and rot the wood its set on... as far as boats being build 'shody' ya, I agree.. another WTF moment was discovering the bulkhead wasnt really glassed well enough IMO to be structural in my boat, yet they bolted the tank to it... so I will be re-engineering that too.

 

[Axkiker]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

So im on to another decision to make. To foam or not to foam, that is the question.

My boat is 23' long and had foam from the rear transom up to roughly the driver and passenger console. Just by guessing I dont see it as being enough to float the boat in the even it became swamped. I may try to do some calculations before judging but on the fly im gonna say no.

So my initial thought is to just do a good job of sealing all bulkheads and stringers with a combo of glass and PL glue then applying the floor also with PL glue.

I would think this creates a bunch of air tite cavities that would help keep the boat afloat in the event it was swamped.

Anyone have any thoughts on pros or cons. I just cant see dumping that much $$ into foam if its not either structural or would keep the boat afloat in an emergency.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Chaparral 230 rebuild thread

Swamping is only one scenario where boats get into trouble. I'd highly recommend you rethink and investigate the foam issue further.